Paring Knife, need ideas or examples

[scherf68]

My mother wants me to make a paring knife, have not done one yet. Does anyone have good plans that I could copy, searched google and different shapes and sizes all over the place. I was thinking it would be small, to cut or dice small fruits. My order of AEB-L at .62 thickness arrived and ready to conquer this. How long overall should it be? I just sketched this one out, will it work?

 

[Sean Jones]

.62 thickness? That seems very thick unless you are planning on making an integral. Could it be .062?

Your design looks very similar to one I made out of O-1. But my material was much thinner. About 1/16 or thereabouts.
If I can find the photo I'll post it.

 

[scherf68]

.62 thickness? That seems very thick unless you are planning on making an integral. Could it be .062?

Your design looks very similar to one I made out of O-1. But my material was much thinner. About 1/16 or thereabouts.
If I can find the photo I'll post it.

Yes, it is .062, my mistake.

 

[scherf68]

.62 thickness? That seems very thick unless you are planning on making an integral. Could it be .062?

Your design looks very similar to one I made out of O-1. But my material was much thinner. About 1/16 or thereabouts.
If I can find the photo I'll post it.

So I am on right track from studying them last few days, good to know. Thanks Sean

 

[Chris Railey]

I like it, the shape looks good for a paring knife. Think thin and sharp.

 

[Jesse Latham]

I make two styles.

 

[Gliden07]

This is the one I make. Blade shape is the same on both knives I just shaped handles differently. I use .082 AEB-L SS for the steel.

 

[KentuckyFisherman]

I'm not forging yet, just putting nice scales on purchased blanks. Here's a paring knife I bought from Texas Knifemaker's Supply and added scales from a 150-year-old cherry tree cut a few years ago in my neighborhood. A lot of paring knives have very simple, straight shapes, but I think the blank I bought is just plain sexy. Here are a couple of photos.

 

[scherf68]

I started, had to free-hand grind, my diy guide is to big.

 

[KentuckyFisherman]

Love the blade shape, Scherf, now just add a little more "wiggle" or "wave" to the handle. Just my 2 cents' worth. One other thing that's likely obvious: Paring knives are used at least some of the time with the scales wrapped in your fingers. If you make the scales too wide, say 3/8, it's too thick and doesn't feel right. You want no more than 1/4" scales and maybe some thin liners. Keep it narrow is my advice.

 

[scherf68]

Love the blade shape, Scherf, now just add a little more "wiggle" or "wave" to the handle. Just my 2 cents' worth. One other thing that's likely obvious: Paring knives are used at least some of the time with the scales wrapped in your fingers. If you make the scales too wide, say 3/8, it's too thick and doesn't feel right. You want no more than 1/4" scales and maybe some thin liners. Keep it narrow is my advice.

Thanks for advice, clarify wave to handle so I can do, have an idea. The scales will be black micarta and red liners, thinned down to less than 1/4 inch, glued already. Think I will use corby’s for first time. Will go to tru-grit tomorrow for heat treat and pick some up.

 

[latticino]

Here is an older one of mine with a baby integral guard. Inspired by a 60's era small kitchen knife my folks had.

 

[J. Hoffman]

I have three models I usually suggest for paring or small kitchen work. The first is my Armagh which is a hollow ground sheepsfoot. The next is my Derry with a flat grind, and the third is the Antrim which I bill as an oversized paring or light utility. The Antrim can be flat or hollow ground.

 

[scherf68]

I am trying to go with no plunge line, it seems to be working, just feathering out to bolster. Is this ok to do? Seems to be normal on bigger chef knives.

 

[Alden Cole]

When working a plungeless knife, I always try to leave more meat at the back edge than you think you need, rather than grinding really far under the handle. You don't need the knife sharp all the way up to the finger stop. Hope that makes sense. It takes a little practice, at least for me.

 

[KentuckyFisherman]

Thanks for advice, clarify wave to handle so I can do, have an idea. The scales will be black micarta and red liners, thinned down to less than 1/4 inch, glued already. Think I will use corby’s for first time. Will go to tru-grit tomorrow for heat treat and pick some up.

The "wave" I'm describing is a slight shaping of the blank, but you could still grind it in even if you've done your glue up as long as you don't get things too hot. What I'm thinking of, Scherf, is a slight dip in the spine between the first and middle pin area. On the bottom, put a small sway in the tang between the second and third pins. You've already given the tang a nice rounded shape at the end, so that bottom "wave" will accentuate that nice rounded shape on the end.

Look at Mr. Hoffman's knives just above here; see how the bottom of his tang is shaped, curved, not straight? Something like that not only makes the knife much more visually attractive, it can also keep a wet handle from slipping in your fingers.

 

[scherf68]

Since I made post, will keep as a work in progress with updates. Handles will be about 2/3rd of current thickness.

 

[KentuckyFisherman]

Looks about like mine do at this stage, Scherf. Can't go wrong with the red liners and black scales. Should look real sharp.

 

[scherf68]

One coat of tru-oil, went with reverse hour glass.

 

[scherf68]

I finished except sharpening, hopefully she will forgive me for being late. Thanks for the help and ideas.