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[J. Doyle]

It’s pattern welded, 1095/15N20. But as we all know, that means the edge is 1095.

I don't understand the above statement. (I'm not sure you do either.)

.......The long standing myth that this fake “Damascus” is somehow STRONGER

How is it fake? (I think I know where you're going with this but nobody is discussing that here) and who in this thread contended that it was 'stronger' than anything else?

because the main steel is welded with a weaker steel(15N20).

How are you defining 'weaker'? 15n20 would certainly be tougher than 1095. Lets use correct terms here.

If anyone doesn’t know, go look at 15N20. I wouldn’t use it for ANY knife!

Wrong again. 15n20 is a perfectly fine stand alone steel or as part of a pattern welded blade mixed with similar steels such as 1075, 1080, 1084 & 1095, to name a few.

15n20 is basically 1075 with a small amount of nickel added. Again....BOTH are perfectly acceptable stand alone blade steels.

 

[J. Doyle]

You have been given some good advice by others but I will tell you what I do just so you know there is more than one way. With 1/8" steel I grind my primary bevel in the neighborhood of 10 degrees each side down to the thickness of about a dime. Then I go to heat treat. After, I grind the rest. Anything under 1/8' I do all grinding after heat treat and I generally plate quench these thinner blades. Anything over 1/8" I grind primary bevels as above then I will grind halfway to the spine in the neighborhood of three degrees then go to heat treat. After, I finish my grinding. Find what gives you the best results and do that.
Also, how are you heat treating your 1095? If you have precise temperature control, like a HT oven I would get the parks and use it. If you are doing simple heat treat in a forge or with a torch I would use the mineral oil. Without the temperature control, in my opinion, I would spare myself the expense of the parks. Or better yet just get some 1080 or 1084 and use that with your mineral oil.

P.S. I like your profile too.

I agree with Chris' advice here, to get back on topic.

 

[norseman]

I am using a Johnson #120 forge. Converted to propane. It has a gas control valve and adjustable blower motor but no temp control. I ordered a pyrometer with a ceramic probe to be able to see what the temp is and I have a magnet to check before quenching.
I really appreciate all the advice.

 

[J. Doyle]

If that was the set up I would be using, I would definitely put a muffle pipe in there to slide the blade into to protect it from the direct flame/atmosphere in the forge.

You could seal off one end of the pipe and drill a hole for your thermocouple so you could more closely monitor the temps in the pipe with your blade.

 

[norseman]

Does it matter what kind of pipe?

 

[Chris Railey]

I agree with Chris' advice here, to get back on topic.

That’s good because more than likely I got it from listening to you...or Ed.

 

[J. Doyle]

Does it matter what kind of pipe?

No, not really. Square tubing is nice because you can stand the blade up on the spine with the edge up.

I'd stick the tang/handle end in first and leave the point sticking out of the tube. Bring the tang/ricasso/ thicker part of blade and spine up to temp then quickly flip it around with pliers/tongs (this is easier than it sounds with just a bit of practice) and heat the tip/belly area. Pump the blade in and out of the pipe if necessary to get everything a nice even color and quench.

This way will help keep from overheating the thinner tip/belly/edge area.

Besides the tube shielding the blade from the atmosphere, it also blocks out a lot of light from the forge/flame and making it much easier to watch for decalescence and even heating.

 

[tkroenlein]

If that was the set up I would be using, I would definitely put a muffle pipe in there to slide the blade into to protect it from the direct flame/atmosphere in the forge.

You could seal off one end of the pipe and drill a hole for your thermocouple so you could more closely monitor the temps in the pipe with your blade.

Ugh. I totally never even thought about closing an end and mounting a thermocouple like that. I mostly use an oven, but I'll be needing to build a muffle like that.

 

[Chris Railey]

If that was the set up I would be using, I would definitely put a muffle pipe in there to slide the blade into to protect it from the direct flame/atmosphere in the forge.

You could seal off one end of the pipe and drill a hole for your thermocouple so you could more closely monitor the temps in the pipe with your blade.

That is so simple, I will be doing that very soon. Never thought of mounting a thermo-couple to a muffle pipe.

 

[bladegrinder]

Opinions are one thing, misinformation is another.

True, I only posted "everyone has an opinion" to carefully make an attempt to put forward don't believe everything you read.
While I doubt that Norseman is attempting to make the next moon landing mission knife made from the latest super space age steel to hit the market, I believe the steel he chose too use for the knife blade he posted will probably be fine for the tasks it might be put up too.

While I don't forge high carbon and use mainly stainless steel I have used high carbon and stainless Damascus from other makers.
and while I follow advice from Ed Caffrey, Kevin Cashen, John Doyle and others I must say I've never read of currently made Damascus steel being trashed so bluntly and forward as O A just did. pretty sad.

 

[One Armed]

The very FIRST thing I said in post #7

“You’ll be ok. The Poshland forge welded steel is typical 1095/15N20, albeit WAY overpriced, will work as any other forge weld stuff.”

It’s ok to have opinions. I respect each of yours... And I agree it will make a fine knife for the OP. I was the FIRST one to say that and let the OP know the composition.

Thats all I have to say about that.

 

[norseman]

I received the pyrometer and gave it a try -used a rectangle tube muffler and normalized to 1500 degrees

 

[Chris Railey]

I received the pyrometer and gave it a try -used a rectangle tube muffler and normalized to 1500 degrees

That looks like a good set up...You wouldn't by chance have about 12 inches of that square tube you want to sell do you?

 

[tkroenlein]

I received the pyrometer and gave it a try -used a rectangle tube muffler and normalized to 1500 degrees

How was it to control heat?

Edit: That was poorly phrased.
How difficult did you find it to control/hold the temp with that set up?

 

[Bruce McLeish]

That looks like a good set up...You wouldn't by chance have about 12 inches of that square tube you want to sell do you?

Chris, you can get actual muffler pipe at any auto parts store. A wide variety of sizes, too.

 

[norseman]

First time I really used it for a purpose, It got to 1500 in 15 mins or so, I could turn the gas and air down and keep it between 1480 and 1500 by adjusting it. It probably would have evened out if I kept it up.

How was it to control heat?

Edit: That was poorly phrased.
How difficult did you find it to control/hold the temp with that set up?

 

[norseman]

I do, you can have for shipping.

That looks like a good set up...You wouldn't by chance have about 12 inches of that square tube you want to sell do you?

 

[Chris Railey]

I do, you can have for shipping.

Thanks. I will send you a message.

 

[norseman]

I quenched today, brought it up to 1475 and could keep it between there and 1480 pretty easily. quenched after a 7 min soak in Parks 50. blade appears to be hard and have done one 2 hour temper at 450 degrees, have another one to go. I did not do any grinding on the blade prior to quenching, afraid I would over heat the blade, not I am having a heck of a time getting it flat. I am almost there but taking some time.

 

[One Armed]

Looks to me like another candidate to to follow myself and so many others, in the DIY build of a Surface Grinder Attachment. I promise you won’t regret it!