My forge build.....WIP......it's going to take a while!

KenH said:
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Only use the rigidizer on the final layer. You mention "castable" - which are you using? Kast-o-Lite or a different castable? My understanding is koawool next to metal (1 or 2 layers, doesn't matter), with Kast-o-Lite (or other castable) that builds up perhaps 1/4" or so, maybe even less? Then a final coat of ITC-100 that's a thin layer - paint coast thin.

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You gonna LOVE the new forge.
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Sry I forgot to address this comment.

Yes 2 layers of kaowool up against the metal, then rigidize just the inner layer, then the castable (MIZZOU CASTABLE PLUS), and then the ITC-100.

So only a 1/4" of castable? I thought possibly more? I was certainly thinking the floor to be over 1/2"? Do you use any type of kiln shelf?


I can't wait to fire it up though I'm probably over a week out!
 
Only on the first forge did I inject thru the Tee fitting, that was when I was trying to get by without building a new forge. If you look at all the photos in this thread: https://knifedogs.com/threads/new-forge.50681/ I think you'll see the injection point in the 2" blower pipe right in front of the blower itself. The Tee fitting you see on this burner is an old Tee I had laying around and used to make the 90 degree turn.
 
KenH said:
Only on the first forge did I inject thru the Tee fitting, that was when I was trying to get by without building a new forge. If you look at all the photos in this thread: https://knifedogs.com/threads/new-forge.50681/ I think you'll see the injection point in the 2" blower pipe right in front of the blower itself. The Tee fitting you see on this burner is an old Tee I had laying around and used to make the 90 degree turn.
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Yes of course, pardon me, I saw that but with all the threads and YouTube's I've been reading/watching on 'how to build a forge' I'm losing track of the what, when and where!o_O
 
I'm hoping Ed or other knowledgeable folks will chime in on this thread, OR at least monitor so if I give bad info PLEASE CORRECT!!

Not sure why the oval for burner - I guess that's to serve as a flare inside the forge? It's my understanding a blown burner doesn't benefit from a flare, only a venturi burners needs the flare. Most blown burners I've seen are just round pipe - I think anyway. I don't expect the oval will hurt anything, maybe it will spread flame out a little? You do know to I brought the burner in from side around 9 O'clock with it angled upward slightly and toward rear a tad. I think better to bring in around 10 O'clock to allow burner to be level and still have flame travel along curve of interior. Still angled from front to rear. This allows the flame to make a nice "swirl" inside to prevent any real hotspots. If you look at Ed's post #12 in this thread to see how his flame is angled upwards a tad: https://knifedogs.com/threads/forge-question.50521/

If you look at this video you can see a swirling action:
I've had a 12" bar in the forge and it would be the same color orange from one end to other with no dark or brighter spots. Pretty even heat, and that's what you're looking for.
 
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KenH said:
I'm hoping Ed or other knowledgeable folks will chime in on this thread, OR at least monitor so if I give bad info PLEASE CORRECT!!

Not sure why the oval for burner - I guess that's to serve as a flare inside the forge? It's my understanding a blown burner doesn't benefit from a flare, only a venturi burners needs the flare. Most blown burners I've seen are just round pipe - I think anyway. I don't expect the oval will hurt anything, maybe it will spread flame out a little? You do know to bring burner in from side around 9 O'clock with it angled upward slightly and toward rear a tad? This allows the flame to make a nice "swirl" inside to prevent any real hotspots. If you look at Ed's post #12 in this thread to see how his flame is angled upwards a tad: https://knifedogs.com/threads/forge-question.50521/

If you look at this video you can see a swirling action:
I've had a 12" bar in the forge and it would be the same color orange from one end to other with no dark or brighter spots. Pretty even heat, and that's what you're looking for.
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Ok, I'm convinced, why mess with success? Round it is!

On another note I blew up the start capacitor in my big Grizzly 6x48 grinder today. Stinks and pretty messy!

Ordered a replacement from Amazon, $16 and one day shipping...

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cap.jpg

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grinder.jpg

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Please allow me to add a comment here on burner location. I previously said 9 O'clock position, and edited that post.

I brought the burner in from side around 9 O'clock with it angled upward slightly and toward rear a tad. I think better to bring in around 10 O'clock to allow burner to be level and still have flame travel along curve of interior. This allows the flame to make a nice "swirl" inside to prevent any real hotspots. Still angled from front to rear. I do think the rear portion of my forge is a bit hotter than the front portion (rear is blocked with firebricks with only small openings for gases to exit.

I have read a couple of folks who recommended mounting burner in rear and angled toward front of forge. I was concerned the flame would put too much toward the open front of forge. I'm thinking perhaps with a firebrick mounted at front to cover half of forge opening, and have the firebrick on the side where the most flame would be coming out it might be a good balance. Just not sure which would be best. With a longer handle welded to billet it's easy to place billet in rear half of forge.

I'm just rambling thoughts this morning - gotta get up and moving, got things to do :)
 
KenH said:
Please allow me to add a comment here on burner location. I previously said 9 O'clock position, and edited that post.

I brought the burner in from side around 9 O'clock with it angled upward slightly and toward rear a tad. I think better to bring in around 10 O'clock to allow burner to be level and still have flame travel along curve of interior. This allows the flame to make a nice "swirl" inside to prevent any real hotspots. Still angled from front to rear. I do think the rear portion of my forge is a bit hotter than the front portion (rear is blocked with firebricks with only small openings for gases to exit.

I have read a couple of folks who recommended mounting burner in rear and angled toward front of forge. I was concerned the flame would put too much toward the open front of forge. I'm thinking perhaps with a firebrick mounted at front to cover half of forge opening, and have the firebrick on the side where the most flame would be coming out it might be a good balance. Just not sure which would be best. With a longer handle welded to billet it's easy to place billet in rear half of forge.

I'm just rambling thoughts this morning - gotta get up and moving, got things to do :)
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OK, 10 oclock, level and angled slightly to the rear. I'm assuming the inside is angled to the rear a bit? 5 degrees or so?

I like it being level works better in my head!
 
Well, if you angle it from outside the inside should be angled the same way. The burner tube isn't going to be bent any inside the insulation.

Not sure about the angle, didn't measure it. I placed the burner hole about a 1/3 of way from front with sighting thru tube to hit about a 1/3 of way from rear. That allows the flame to "flow" around the interior, and swirl and come back toward to front. Thinking about it, not sure it really needs to be that much, perhaps enter 1/3 from front, and hit other side about half way? Joe, I just don't have enough experience with forge design and building to make concrete statements. That's why I've mentioned a couple of times for other folks to chime in and correct any errors I'm making. I'd LOVE to make another forge to try a couple of things like that, but really have no use for a 3rd forge.
 
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My start capacitor is supposed to arrive by 2 PM and not only do I need that grinder but I also need to get the grinder off my work bench before I can proceed much further on the forge so I skipped around a bit this morning. Fairly productive.


My burner support tube is finally out of the vinegar, all bubbling stopped after about 30 hours and 2 changes of vinegar. Got it all brushed up and it's zinc free finally....

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burner support.jpg

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Then I started cutting the steel for my forge cart.... goes pretty fast cutting 6 pieces at once.....

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cutting.jpg

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This is the finished steel all cut, though there will be shelf supports later....

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cart steel.jpg

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Not too bad on the drops! Normally waste but I don't toss out anything over 6 inches....

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drops.jpg

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The cart will be about 26" square and 74" tall including the wheels. Kinda tall but in my small shop the only space I have left is in the vertical dimension. Bottom shelf will be able to fit up to four 40 pound propane tanks, 160 pounds total if needed though I'm just starting with 2. Then an intermediate shelve between the forge and tanks that will be steel and cement board. The forge will be suspended about 4" above the intermediate shelve and finally about 5" or so above the forge will be another steel and cement board shelve for general storage.
 
KenH said:
Well, if you angle it from outside the inside should be angled the say way. The burner tube isn't going to be bent any inside the insulation.

Not sure about the angle, didn't measure it. I placed the burner hole about a 1/3 of way from front with sighting thru tube to hit about a 1/3 of way from rear. That allows the flame to "flow" around the interior, and swirl and come back toward to front. Thinking about it, not sure it really needs to be that much, perhaps enter 1/3 from front, and hit other side about half way? Joe, I just don't have enough experience with forge design and building to make concrete statements. That's why I've mentioned a couple of times for other folks to chime in and correct any errors I'm making. I'd LOVE to make another forge to try a couple of things like that, but really have no use for a 3rd forge.
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I understand Ken, and I appreciate your help and patience with me. Working with a tried and true design is most helpful. And if I mess it up well that's generally how I learn best! I can always patch the hole and I still have a half roll of kaowool! :)
 
Received the new capacitor. Got it installed and my grinder is back up! I could have bought the cap locally for about $12 but it would have entailed a 40 minute drive through traffic. Also learned something new, AC caps apparently have no polarity!

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grinder working again.jpg

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Also started fitting the burner support tube. What a head scratcher, way too many angles. I'm close, need another 1/8" or so off the heel.

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burner support.jpg

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Got the burner support tube welded in, boy howdy that was a lot of fun!:rolleyes: Must have tacked it in and broke it loose about 6 times till I got it to it's permanent(?) location.


From the front....

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burner2.jpg

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From the top...

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burner1.jpg

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Ken I got the burner placed about 2/5ths from the front pointed to about 2/5ths the from the rear. I'm praying that it's good enough. But it's level!


Also painted on the rigidizer, so I have about 24 hours or so until that dries then onto the castable. Not that I don't have plenty to do in the meantime.....

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rigidzed.jpg

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Looks like that burner tube is just about right where it's located. Isn't it going to be right at the top of the inside insulation so the flame will just "roll around" the circle of insulation? I know you're more anxious to see a flame than I am, but that's exactly the location I was thinking if I build another forge.

What size is that burner tube? What size is the support tube? How many bolts do you have to center the burner tube? Looks like plenty {g}
 
KenH said:
Looks like that burner tube is just about right where it's located. Isn't it going to be right at the top of the inside insulation so the flame will just "roll around" the circle of insulation? I know you're more anxious to see a flame than I am, but that's exactly the location I was thinking if I build another forge.
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I THINK once I trim the burner tube and get the castable in place the top edge of the burner tube should be about even with the castable. Hopefully the flame will roll! If nothing else it will be a good test.


KenH said:
What size is that burner tube? What size is the support tube? How many bolts do you have to center the burner tube? Looks like plenty {g}
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The burner tube is 1.5" ID. The support tube is 2" ID. 6 bolts, even funnier I was contemplating 8!:D I even used 1/4"x28 bolts to up the thread count!
 
I think the flame is going to do nicely. That's the size I thought the tubes were just looking at photo. the 1/4-28 will do just fine, as would the 1/4-20 screws. Glad to see you're welding things - the ability to weld makes fab'ing this a lot easier than having to screw everything together. Your forge build is giving me almost as much fun as the build I did :)
 
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