My first acquisition toward forging blades for real...

BRad704

BRad704

Well-Known Member
It may not be much yet, but its a start... My aunt has a friend that works for the local railroad. She got him to cut this 13.5" piece for me, and she got an 8" piece for herself to use in jewelry making.

The hammer is just for size comparison overall... Next is to make a base for it, and then get a couple of firebricks and build my small knife forge...

2010-12-28%2014.55.43.jpg
 
Good score!

My sister works for a railroad, so I've got a little bit of rail, too. Would like to set it next to the vise for smaller work. Been tryin' to think of a way to flatten it more. Do you think one of the low-speed portable belt sanders (3x18) would work?

Again, congrats.
 
It's gotta be better than beating on an automotive frame machine like I did for my first forged blade... So any start is a good start. :)

I think I am going to mount it upside down so I can use the flat part of it for hammering.
 
Hey, I not only used a RR track but built a brake drum forge and made my own hardwood charcoal. I was in hog heaven at the time. About turning it over, even though it is curved the top is more solid and will be work hardened so I would keep it upright.
 
Good point Roy.... I guess that slight curve could make it a bit easier to draw out the taper and edge also... Work smarter, not harder, right? :)

I thought about a brake drum forge, but I think I can get the materials for a 2 brick just as cheap/easily... plus being able to cut it off and store it quicker is a plus for me. I'm not gonna be able to keep all this at my house in General Suburbia USA, so I think it will live at our body shop about 10 minutes from here...
 
I have a bit of rail too. :D

I'm thinking of making some sides for it and filling up the channels with sand and lead for added mass and to try and stop any ringing (It's a bit much otherwise!)
 
I used a piece of RR track for years turned up vertical, the end has a lot of mass under it and I only used a small area for blades and "hawks.........Randy
 
Use some adhesive chalk to stick it to the stand and it will help with the ringing. I use cast steel anvils, which are notorious about ringing, and cut it out completely.
The anvil becomes part of the stand and adds to the overall weight too. I like a three legged stand so that all legs are always on the ground, no rocking and you can stand closer to the anvil. I also like the anvil face to be at wrist height.
 
I used a section of track about that size for over a year. I found the slightly convex top to be a real benefit. If you work the steel long ways on the rail you can widen the material. If you work the blade across the rail you can draw it out. The side of the rail can be used to straighten the blade.

Fred
 
Have made a few anvils over the years , I once Took a large piece of I beam ,stood it on end , in a 5 gal bucket and filled it with concrete. Makes a killer anvil with several places to forge on . Try and get the biggest one you can find. Bubba
 
When i first started, i ground my "close" to flat then took it to a friends machine shop and he milled it true for me. Dont know what it would have cost if it wasnt a "Budd" deal. But if you get most of the steel off grinding, it lessens your shop time and $$ at the machine shop.

Keep an eye out on craigslist in your area under the tool section, you will be amazed what comes thru there, picked up a nice haybudden for $100!

God Bless
 
I think this may have been a virgin piece of track (meaning it was never used or work-hardened) because it started showing quite a few hammer marks and such after I pounded out a couple of rough blades. I think I will go with the bucket of concrete method to keep it secure.

All in all... I have found a lead to help me with stock removal, so I am backing off my forging aspirations until I can get a few more knives under my belt (and some $$$ in my pocket for more forging supplies)...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top