Mosaic pins ?

Keith Willis

Keith Willis

Well-Known Member
Can some of you{the more,the better} give me some advice on making my own Mosaic pins.I purchase some items today,in hopes of giving it a try.I may be trying something I can never do,but I sure would like to give it a try.I would be thankful of any help.Just know this is something I have never tried or given much thought,so thanks for any help.

God bless,Keith
 
I may be able to help.

I attended a Johnny Stout Hammer-In late last year and we made mosaic pins. I can go back and look at my notes but I believe this is most of it.

#1 Design your pattern. Make sure that you develop an interior layout that will not be too loose and looks like you want. The ones we worked with were comprised of a 12 inch sleeve pin with various 12 inch smaller pins placed inside.

#2 Get a brake bleeder system from your local parts store. You are just going to need the vacuum pump part of it along with one of the transparent hoses that will fit over the end of the sleeve pin that is holding thi other pins that comprise your pattern.

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#3 Mix some slow cure epoxy. Make sure its slow becuase you want to have time to add the colorant or pigment and get it fully mixed. Mix more that you will need. - It sucks when you dont have as much as you thought.

#4 Stick the bottom of the mosaic pin into the epoxy and use the brake bleeder to pull a vacuum and suck the epoxy up through the sleeve pins that is holding your smaller pins.

#5 When you see the epoxy come out at the top through the transparent tube, your mosaic pin should be full of epoxy.

#6 Pull the pin out of the epoxy and place a piece of tape across the bottom and then remove the tube from the top. Sit it upright to cure for 24 hours.

CAUTION - The reaction of the epoxy is exothermic and the pin will get HOT! Way hotter than most people realize. - I can tell you from experience.

I hope this helps. I have seen it work and the results were just as good as any of the pre-made ones. And way cheaper.

Lonestar JR
 
HF also have the brake vacuum pumps on sale at this time. I received a coupon for 16.99 when their sale was 19.99 now ot just remember where the coupon was listed.
 
WOW!Lonestar,that is good info.I think I can find a brake bleeder tomorrow,if so I hope I can make it work.
Thanks again,my friend,for that excellent information.I'll let you know how it turns out.

God bless,Keith
 
useless1

Remember Pictures or it didn't happen! I would love to see a wip of this.
 
OK here it is.This is one pattern that I had in mind.I have some others,but I thought I would start with something simple,it is all brass stock.There is no epoxy,however I will fill with epoxy before I am finished.

Please let me know what you think.Good?Bad?.

Thanks for your help.
God bless,Keith
 
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NICE! Did you modify that center pin from a round one?

I have never seen that one before in the hobby stores.

Lonestar JR
 
Lonestar JR said:
NICE! Did you modify that center pin from a round one?

I have never seen that one before in the hobby stores.

Lonestar JR
Click to expand...

Thanks Lonestar,the center pin is just the way it was made.I can tell you,with the three pins, it was a very tight fit.

God bless,Keith
 
I just thought I would show my second pin pattern.I am real pleased with the way this is turning out.I am thinking this one may be a little large in diameter,but I am going to finish it and use it.
Thanks for looking,and tell me what you think.

God bless,Keith
 
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I made mine by sucking tinted epoxy into the tubes with a clear rubber hose.
When I see the epoxy move into the clear hose, I stop sucking, and press the end on a little lump of clay to plug it. Just be sure your sucker is under control, I'm sure it wouldn't taste very good! :eek:
By the way... I use paint pigment from my local hardware store,to color my epoxy. A little goes a long way.
Dave
 
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Where is your favorite place to buy the sleeves and the small rods for the inside? If you cut the length down to 6" would that be easier to handle with less chance of air bubbles?

Larry
 
Shaughnessy said:
Where is your favorite place to buy the sleeves and the small rods for the inside? If you cut the length down to 6" would that be easier to handle with less chance of air bubbles?

Larry
Click to expand...

Larry this is the first time I have done this,but most of these rods and pins come from Hobby Lobby and the outside piece of the second one came from Lowes.I was in Hobby Lobby on Tuesday,saw this stuff,and thats where the thought of even doing this came to me.There may be cheaper places to buy this stuff,but I have not checked.
As far as cutting it down.I am sure it would be eaiser to work with,esp.my first piece.It was such a tight fit if I do any more,I will cut it down.
As for air,I would think if you do as Lonestar says,there should be no air.(But keep in mind this is my first time,so maybe Lonestar will chime in.)

God bless,Keith
 
Thanks Keith,
I think you got it right, I was just thinking out loud. I need some 1/8th pins so I was thinking about trying to make a few. I use the long cure epoxy that comes in black so then I wouldnt have to tint it. Thanks for the info.

Larry
 
at a NC Guild meeting I saw a demo using fiberglass resin it is a little thinner than the epoxy and a syringe to apply it from the top. I haven't tried it yet but his looked great, so many things to do so little time...LOL.........Steve
 
Ya'll guys are way ahead of me already. I am just lucky I took notes during the mosaic pin session or I wouldn't be able to help at all.

As long as the there is enough epoxy in the bottom of the cup (use something sturdy - my cup started to defrom from the heat) that you are pulling from, I don't think bubbles would be a problem.

Viscosity is key. You want the epoxy to be able to flow but be viscous enough to manage.

When I saw it in the class, it happened pretty quick. While it wasn't perfect at each end, the rest looked really good and I don't remember any bubbles at all.

As far as pigment, Arrow-360 was exactly right. It doesn't take much.

I have the day off so I am off to the KMG to make some sparks.

Lonestar Johnny Roberts
 
Steve Randall said:
at a NC Guild meeting I saw a demo using fiberglass resin it is a little thinner than the epoxy and a syringe to apply it from the top. I haven't tried it yet but his looked great, so many things to do so little time...LOL.........Steve
Click to expand...

Thanks Steve,fiberglass resin is just what I had on my mind,now I know it will work2thumbs.I will be doing that tomorrow,thanks again.I'll let ya know how it turns out.

If anyone can add anything else,I would be greatfull.

God bless,Keith
 
am i right to thing fiberglass resin can also work to glue the scales on hk knifes remember pic,s welcome
 
mike miller said:
HF also have the brake vacuum pumps on sale at this time. I received a coupon for 16.99 when their sale was 19.99 now ot just remember where the coupon was listed.
Click to expand...

I just paid $39.99, for the model Lonestar pictured, the other day! :mad:
Ahh well, I hated to pay that much, but I can't make the pins without it.
What am I gonna do, use my mouth to suck the epoxy up :confused: :eek:

Thanks for the tips, Lonestar. 2thumbs cool 1

One question: Will the fiberglass resin wind up being too brittle?
I've heard of pins falling apart, because someone used the knife to baton, or chop, with.
Little tiny pins all over the place! :unsure:
 
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