Mil Build W.I.P. thread

Justin King

Well-Known Member
Lookin' good, James!

I don't imagine that there would be an issue with the name/maker's mark, there is no requirement for sterile equipment in regular units, that I know of. If anyone knows different then by all means, speak up!

A lot of guys do appreciate a non-reflective finish but a satin finish would probably work fine as well. I don't think it is expected of anyone to invest $ to buy a parkerizing setup, or anything like that. I will most likely do an acid washed/stone washed finish on mine but a plain acid wash (etch) would serve the same purpose. This can be done on the cheap with white vinegar, a bottle of ferric chloride can be found at Radio shack for fairly cheap also. Ceracote or Gun Kote are also good alternatives but may be cost prohibitive to some of us. Bead blasting is also an option for some but keep in mind that the blades are not stainless and a textured finish is likely to promote rust.

A lanyard tube is always a good idea IMO, I personally never use them but having the tube there can't hurt, and always offers the opportunity to change my mind

Swedges/false edges are a subjective feature. I have never had much use for one and with my preferred style of grind (high flat or full flat), they tend to thin the tip out too much for my liking, and they also preclude using the back edge as a user interface for applying off-hand pressure or batoning. Not worth the tradeoff IMO, but they are prevalent on tactical type knives so I won't say that they don't belong.

Sheath attachments are also subjective and not everybody likes the same thing. Molle Loks work well for attaching to webgear but most guys don't wear webgear all of the time, and for some guys a Tek Lok might be more versatile, allowing them to carry the knife more easily when not carrying full kit. I have had quite a few military customers in the past year or so and I would guess that 1 in 4 or less have chosen Molle Loks for the sheath attachment.
 
Last edited:

Ausbrooks

KNIFE MAKER
Thanks for answering my questions everyone.
Justin, on the sheaths, you say only 1 in 4 wanted a Tek Lok, so 3 in 4 wanted just a basic belt loop set up?
 

Justin King

Well-Known Member
Thanks for answering my questions everyone.
Justin, on the sheaths, you say only 1 in 4 wanted a Tek Lok, so 3 in 4 wanted just a basic belt loop set up?

I typo'd-Only 1 in 4 wanted the Molle Loks. The Tek Loks have been more popular among my mil customers to date.
 

James Terrio

Well-Known Member
Thanks IG :)

Bead blasting is also an option for some but keep in mind that the blades are not stainless and a textured finish is likely to promote rust.

You're right, I wasn't thinking of that. I'll probably just go with a hand-satin finish and light etch.
 

Justin King

Well-Known Member
Thanks IG :)



You're right, I wasn't thinking of that. I'll probably just go with a hand-satin finish and light etch.

It is less of an issue for those of us who can choose when to go hiking:)
The biggest issue I have seen with bead blasted carbon steel is when it gets left in a wet sheath, which can produce rust in an astonishing hurry. Most of us can probably avoid that problem easily enough, but soldiers don't always get to choose the weather they go out in, which is worth considering.
 

James Terrio

Well-Known Member
I'll probably just use white vinegar or lemon juice. I haven't worked with 52100 before, but I've had good success with both those on 1095, CarbonV and other carbon steels. The patina they leave does protect against rust to a fair degree. It's not terribly resistant to being scratched off, but then again you can touch it up with, well, basically any mild acid.
 

Patrick

Well-Known Member
Yeah James, blood does an awesome patina job. Can't wait to get mine done and out the door. I appreciate the info shared on this thread. We have tough standards to meet for some of our toughest.
 

James Terrio

Well-Known Member
All three blades are cleaned up to 400 grit. I still need to size and chamfer the holes before they're ready for HT.

I'm beginning to wonder why I waited so long to try a chisel grind, I'm starting to like it. I may just need to make another one for personal testing purposes :)
 

Ausbrooks

KNIFE MAKER
Finally got a start on my blades - Wow does 52100 grind nice after all that D7! Was able to grind out and HT 2 today so felt pretty good. After 2 hr temper they came out at 58 and 60 RC, about right. Pretty good design and Kudos to Randy.
BladesLayout2.jpg


Bladesgrnd2.jpg


Forgeinaction.jpg


AfterHT.jpg
 

franklin

Well-Known Member
Good looking blades ausbrooks.
How aboute you james any further? they looked pretty good, i posted mine on the other one (updates) dont want to do twice lol
 

James Terrio

Well-Known Member
Mine are all sanded to 400 grit. Still need to chamfer the holes but they're basically ready for HT. I'll be sending a whole batch of various blades to Peters' in the next week or two, so I'll just include these with them.
 

Ausbrooks

KNIFE MAKER
Ready for Kydex...had to make one from scratch of D2 as I fumbled the oil quench :sad:eek:n one (I'm used to my plate quench) and after a reheat to get the RC up it cracked in temper oven. SO that is why one is not blue.
Replaced first picture 3-3 after touched up forward groove scale on blue knife that I decided was not effect I wanted.
Military5-1.jpg

Military3-1.jpg
 
Last edited:

franklin

Well-Known Member
Looks great ausbrooks, i heard d-2 takes a good dark etch once from art aka yoda! to bad on first one but the second is sweet.
 

Ausbrooks

KNIFE MAKER
Thanks Franklin- I know D2 doesn't cold blue at all! I'll have to find out how that etch works from Art.
 

franklin

Well-Known Member
i believe he said it was a acid etch with the stuff you get from radio shack, i have some d-2 i will give a soak and tell you how she goes, or i will just call art lol. Here is the etch on mine arts was much darker then this!
 

Attachments

  • 100_3404.jpg
    100_3404.jpg
    96.8 KB · Views: 25
Last edited:

Ausbrooks

KNIFE MAKER
Thanks Lagrange....I like the 'no deadline' Bill gave but had to knock these out first....

Franklin, yes let me know how the D2 comes out- I need to buy some ferric chloride and try some etching as I have some D2 tacticals lined up next and a good etch is something I want to learn- thanks.
 
Top