fluidsteel
Active Member
Awesome!!! My mind is numb from trying to absorb and lock in all you are teaching us. Thanks Bruce!
Matchlock Axe/Pistol
- Thread starter Bruce Bump
- Start date
Bruce Bump
Forum Owner-Moderator
Yes, you're right. It would be easier and would be in perfect alignment. I actually went over there today but he wasnt home. I wish my mini lathe were a maxi. Someday my friend.
Stew
Well-Known Member
This barrel is far from finished. They stamped it as proof of the bore size so I can buy round balls for it. I think I'll slice it off and save it for the new owner. They stamped the wrong end or else I could make him a damascus pendant.
If it gets a case, how about a custom made lock using the off cut as the outer, then a damascus button inner for the release mechanism.....
Bruce Bump
Forum Owner-Moderator
Sounds like a good plan.
I do have to make more damascus for the axe blade. I may be able to use some of that in the lock too.
I do have to make more damascus for the axe blade. I may be able to use some of that in the lock too.
If it gets a case, how about a custom made lock using the off cut as the outer, then a damascus button inner for the release mechanism.....
Bruce Bump
Forum Owner-Moderator
My buddy Steven Janik sent me this calculator link. Its going to be very handy to put the octogon on the barrel. http://www.liljedahl.info/projects/octagon_calculator/
ddavelarsen
Well-Known Member
Bruce are you going to machine the sides of the octagon in? Just curious how you're planning to do that one. My low tech method would be to grind the flats flat. Not very accurate and certainly not good enough for a project like this.
Not very accurate and certainly not good enough for a project like this.
Bruce Bump
Forum Owner-Moderator
Hi Dave,
I need to use the centers and re-turn the barrel with a slight amount of taper. After that I can chuck it up and mill them and draw file the flats and stone them down by hand. I want to go from the octagon to a slight tapered round and turn 3 wedding rings for the front mount bolt then round and flared for the axe stop and finially straight with threads for the axe head nut. The axe nut will be threaded for the ram rod. Kinda involved but exciting all the way.
I need to use the centers and re-turn the barrel with a slight amount of taper. After that I can chuck it up and mill them and draw file the flats and stone them down by hand. I want to go from the octagon to a slight tapered round and turn 3 wedding rings for the front mount bolt then round and flared for the axe stop and finially straight with threads for the axe head nut. The axe nut will be threaded for the ram rod. Kinda involved but exciting all the way.
Bruce are you going to machine the sides of the octagon in? Just curious how you're planning to do that one. My low tech method would be to grind the flats flat.
ddavelarsen
Well-Known Member
Thanks Bruce, yeah, that's totally exciting! I dig this project, it's turned me on to no end.
I'm with you all the way, you can be sure of that!Thanks,
Bruce Bump
Forum Owner-Moderator
I made it back to Lons for some lathe work on the barrel.
I have it tapered and flared now. Also have the wedding rings area roughed out. I still need to drill and tap it for the breech plug.
I have it tapered and flared now. Also have the wedding rings area roughed out. I still need to drill and tap it for the breech plug.
Bruce Bump
Forum Owner-Moderator
More work on the barrel today. I was able to turn the wedding rings and drill and tap the 5/8"-18 threads per inch hole for the breech plug.
I believe my next major move is to lay up the damascus for the axe head.
I believe my next major move is to lay up the damascus for the axe head.
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Bruce Bump
Forum Owner-Moderator
Some more work on the barrel and breech plug yesterday. Also drilled the powder touch hole though the barrel and into the breech plug. It is .125" but will be step drilled to a #60 later.
With the breech plug tighted down I could use the flats to clamp the barrel in my mill the flats to match the octagon shape. The small disc with 150 grit brings the flats down to the breech plug flats and I used a small sharp file and a diamond stone to remove remaining tool marks and touch up the flats. Good enough for now.
With the breech plug tighted down I could use the flats to clamp the barrel in my mill the flats to match the octagon shape. The small disc with 150 grit brings the flats down to the breech plug flats and I used a small sharp file and a diamond stone to remove remaining tool marks and touch up the flats. Good enough for now.
Steven Janik
SUPERMOD & AWARDS BOSS
Bruce,
Are you going to "swamp" of flare the muzzle end???
Should be a no-brainer for a guy with your mad skills.
Just askin'
Steve
Are you going to "swamp" of flare the muzzle end???
Should be a no-brainer for a guy with your mad skills.
Just askin'
Steve
Bruce Bump
Forum Owner-Moderator
After allot of thought about the wood handle choice I decided to use a nice local black walnut. I spent hours at the hardwood store and finially found this piece. It has good colors and some evenly spaced marbling. If I mess it up there's also enough for about 4 more. I think with some old time carving for embellishments this handle will be very beautiful. The grain is running the entire length with a natural curve to be strong for an axe handle. I'd like to send it out for stabilizing possibly as walnut is fairly lightwieght and requires allot of finish time. My friend Roger T is coming over this morning and we'll discuss that. Roger is also making a display/storage box for this axe/pistol.
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Bruce Bump
Forum Owner-Moderator
theres no real good picture of the muzzle here yet but the barrel has a taper all the way from the breech plug to the muzzle with a small flair for the axe head to seat onto.
From what I know about swamping, that was done on long gun barrels. This barrel needs to be stout and play two roles, one as a barrel and one as a strong haft for the axe head. I dont think swamping will aid in strength for the axe. Know what I mean?
From what I know about swamping, that was done on long gun barrels. This barrel needs to be stout and play two roles, one as a barrel and one as a strong haft for the axe head. I dont think swamping will aid in strength for the axe. Know what I mean?
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ddavelarsen
Well-Known Member
I was wondering how you were going to do the octagon barrel; now I know, thanks! Wonderful project and WIP.
Bruce Bump
Forum Owner-Moderator
I gave allot of thought to the axe head and decided to make it a 2 piece head. It will have an adaptor of mild steel and a damascus blade that is riveted onto the adaptor. The steel I bought is too thin and needed to be forged down to thicken it from 1" thick to 1 3/8" in the area to be drilled for the barrel muzzle.
After forging the adapter it needed to be milled square so I can chuck it up straight and solid to bore the hole for the barrel.
After forging the adapter it needed to be milled square so I can chuck it up straight and solid to bore the hole for the barrel.
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Bruce Bump
Forum Owner-Moderator
After milling the flats I discovered they are not exactly parallel so I surface ground both sides. Now it will fit in the mill/drill and be solid for drilling the 7/8" hole. The hole is slightly undersized and I have an automotive engine builder friend with a wrist pin reamer. I'm heading down tomorrow to see if he can finish ream the hole to fit my barrel.
HHH Knives
Super Moderator
LMAO! Great WIP Bruce. Its so cool to see your work come to life in the photos
Thanks
Randy