Matchlock Axe/Pistol

The enlarged hand drawing wouldnt fit on one 8 x 11 so I glued both ends together and cut it out with scissors to see how it looks full size. After tracing and cutting from wood I discovered it has too short of a handle for practical use. The next wooden pattern is better but by trial and error I think its about right now. Just goes to show ya the drawing board isnt always right. The last wooden model also has a bigger trigger housing and more room for the lock mechanism. It looks like it may just work now.

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the next step is to trace the new wooden pattern onto mylar so I can begin to design the mechanism. Mylar is great stuff because you can draw and erase several times until it looks like it will work. Of coarse this can all be done on a computer drawing program but I'm not smart enough to do that. This way is much less aggravating besides I think our firearms pioneers used mylar around 300 years ago so if its good enough for them its good enough for me.

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Outstanding Bruce I've been looking forward to a new WIP and what a great subject.:35:

Jim
 
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I get it now Bruce the fore runner to a "SWAT BREECH GUN"! :les:

If you don't get in with one shot you hack your way in!

Or if you use your one shot it still makes a formidable weapon! I would hate to look up just in time to see someone swinging that thing at me, "it was the last thing that went through his mind,.........err so to speak"!:what!::biggrin:
 
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C Craft said:
I get it now Bruce the fore runner to a "SWAT BREECH GUN"! :les:

If you don't get in with one shot you hack your way in!

Or if you use your one shot it still makes a formidable weapon! I would hate to look up just in time to see someone swinging that thing at me, "it was the last thing that went through his mind,.........err so to speak"!:what!::biggrin:
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You got it. Its a true "dual threat" weapon. In capable hands on a fearless steed I can only imagine this thing could split some helmets and remove some limbs.
 
Looks Great, Bruce.
(Funny, I always thought that Mylar was your middle name)

Steve
 
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Bruce,
I stand in utter awe of your abilities, your imagination and what you do with it blows my febble mind! This is an awesome WIP, and to get to be a "fly on the wall" during the build itself, is more than a privledge! It's an honor!!! My friend, you are amazing!!! I gush shamelessly, at 6'3'' 300 pounds, I aint too worried anyone will call me on it, except maybe Murph. But he GUSHES TOO!!!!

Bruce, Mind sharing with me where you get your Nickel, I've been wanting to put some in my Damascus experiements! Thanks Bud, Rex
BTW, I am SUBSCRIBED and if I can fine the star ratings, I'll hit that too!!!! Please NEVER quit the WIP's, no one can replace YOU!!!!
 
deker said:
Looking forward to seeing this one come to completion Bruce!

Also, keep us posted on that diamond chop saw blade. If it's as good as they advertise I'll probably want one. Are you always taking all of the scale off of pieces before you cut?

-d
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I agree, if it does work as well as they say and as good as it looks like it does for you, saving bandsaw blades and getting a straight cut, nice on both counts!!! How much did you say it cost? I want to say I've seen them somewhere...might have been Enco.....I can't remember CRAP! ...., EVER!!!! Just once in a while,... to recall something I wanted to, not just what stuck in there for whatever reason! It does look very promising, are you using it with a regular chop saw? Thanks BUD! Rex
 
McClellan Made Blades said:
I agree, if it does work as well as they say and as good as it looks like it does for you, saving bandsaw blades and getting a straight cut, nice on both counts!!! How much did you say it cost? I want to say I've seen them somewhere...might have been Enco.....I can't remember CRAP! ...., EVER!!!! Just once in a while,... to recall something I wanted to, not just what stuck in there for whatever reason! It does look very promising, are you using it with a regular chop saw? Thanks BUD! Rex
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Yep just an old Makita 14" chop saw. So far it looks like I made the right choice. When cutting thick bars of steel especially high carbon steel the old fibre blades would start shredding and putting that black dust in the air. That stuff cant be good to breathe. It drifts everywhere too. This diamond blade doesnt bind up and slow down or stop the motor or blow breakers like the fiber ones. It sure is loud though.

The nickel foil I used on this project has been kicking around my shop for years. Its all gone now and I cant remember where I got it. See you're not the only one with a poor memory. I'd like to find more of it myself. "Nickel 200" is another name for it. On-Line Metals has it but it aint cheap. http://www.onlinemetals.com/index.cfm
type in "Nickel 200" in the search function. There are allot of shapes and sizes.
 
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Not much happening on this gun at the moment. The barrel is still out being drilled,bored and reamed to .50 caliber.

I made some copies of the matchlock and sent one to our artist son Brian and asked him to draw the dragons head for the serpentine (slow match). He has the gift of drawing with a pencil. It will be my job to take it from paper to steel.

For those who aren't familiar with a "matchlock" firing method, it's a simple mechanism that clamps a cotton rope that has been soaked in salt Peter and dried. The "slow match" after lit on fire will smolder and stay very hot for a long time. The serpentine is a simple clamp that holds the slow match near the primer powder. Adjusting the match in the clamp is needed often to maintain a long enough ignition end. The fire box with the primer powder needs a lid to prevent dangerous accidental firing. The trigger is pulled and has a rod attached to the serpentine thus lowering the match. Another function of the serpentine is to open the primer box lid exposing the primer powder to the hot igniting match. There is a small hole drilled from the primer box directly into the main load. There may be a delay for total ignition but that makes things interesting. With only one shot the sharpened axe head will surely come in handy.
 
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Here I'm tracing the trigger and serpentine and glued them to thin sheet brass. I'll cut out the two templates and drill the holes for the rod between the two and the pivots. I can pin the brass parts to my wooden handle and get an idea where the real parts will be. I need to make steel side plates that will be attached to the barrel. This is a simple method to find pivot placement for the steel plates.

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Bruce Bump said:
The nickel foil I used on this project has been kicking around my shop for years. Its all gone now and I cant remember where I got it. See you're not the only one with a poor memory. I'd like to find more of it myself. "Nickel 200" is another name for it. On-Line Metals has it but it aint cheap. http://www.onlinemetals.com/index.cfm
type in "Nickel 200" in the search function. There are allot of shapes and sizes.
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Check out Admiral for nickel 201 foil. They have it in .005", .010", .020", and .030". Best prices I've found for it, but it's still not cheap at >$40/lb. Nickel has gotten EXPENSIVE.

-d
 
deker said:
Check out Admiral for nickel 201 foil. They have it in .005", .010", .020", and .030". Best prices I've found for it, but it's still not cheap at >$40/lb. Nickel has gotten EXPENSIVE.

-d
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That's really not a bad price. Is nickel 201 the same as 200? Wonder what the difference is?
 
Bruce Bump said:
That's really not a bad price. Is nickel 201 the same as 200? Wonder what the difference is?
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http://www.steelforge.com/metaltidbits/nickel.htm

" The main difference between Nickel 200 and Nickel 201 is that the latter has a lower Carbon content. Because of its lower Carbon content, Nickel 201 is well-suited for applications that involve exposure to temperatures above 600 degrees Fahrenheit. (When Nickel 200 is exposed to such high temperatures it is vulnerable to embrittlement.)"
 
Brad do you happen to have the data on both these alloys for closer comparison?
What high temp are you referring to? forging, welding or tempering? I didnt think there was any carbon in either. I've had no trouble with the 200 in damascus anyway. I suppose unprotected from oxygen it could crumble at welding temps.
BRad704 said:
http://www.steelforge.com/metaltidbits/nickel.htm

" The main difference between Nickel 200 and Nickel 201 is that the latter has a lower Carbon content. Because of its lower Carbon content, Nickel 201 is well-suited for applications that involve exposure to temperatures above 600 degrees Fahrenheit. (When Nickel 200 is exposed to such high temperatures it is vulnerable to embrittlement.)"
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