Matchlock Axe/Pistol

I've tried working with CAD a couple times and it's just beyond my feeble intellect to get my arms around how any of those programs work. And I can't draw worth a damn; not like Bruce and most of you guys do. I end up with a knife that matches my original pattern almost exactly, but all the embellishment - when I do any - is completely off the top of my head. I admire you guys who can visualize and draw what things like that could look like before starting.

Bruce, the springs are a bit larger on this flask than I imagined. I expect you'll finish them in a manner that matches the rest of the project, but I wonder whether they could support any embellishment too, perhaps engraving? They just seem to over power the rest of the working end of the flask for me. Of course, I have nothing to compare this to either, so I obviously don't know what the hell I'm talking about. :)

I sure am digging this project. Every time my inbox includes a link to a project update, that's the first thing I go to to study and drool over. I love this stuff.

Thanks,
Dave
 
I do a lot of CAD, unfortunately. Once you get the basics down it is not all that hard, if I can do it anyone can. Curves are a bit of a challenge. I can draw a spiral curve for the profile of a blade far easier on paper than I can define it in CAD. Geometrically correct is not always pleasing to the eye. Moving parts are great with CAD like folders. You can rotate the blade around and see how it looks in any position. Plus all the parts can be printed to scale.

If anyone needs a little CAD help send me a PM and I will try and help.
 
I think the flask gates are done

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Bruce that flask is looking awesome! It's come together very well, doesn't look unbalanced at all to me now. I think I just had a picture of something in my mind that was impossible to make, and "knew" very well that you would do it anyway! This is an elegant solution, and I totally dig it. Still want to know whether those springs will be embellished though. Seems like they're begging for it. :)
 
The camera angle can make them look too big or too small. Because this is a "one of a kind" and represents an era of long ago its anybody's guess if they are right or wrong. Embellish the springs? I doubt there's enough area plus they,ve been heat treated already.
 
Not to be too dumb (can't help it sometimes), but are the holes in the gates the space for the powder to flow through, and the slots only for the springs? If so, is there a stop that will align the holes with the nipples properly? Or am I asking too much. Probably, full throw on the gates will align the holes fully. I'm just trying to imagine using the flask. It's a wonderful thing that's really captured my imagination in this project.
 
Dave, yes the slots are for the springs and nearly bottom out when depressed. There is a 3/16" pin that acts as a stop in both open and closed position. The round holes do line up when the gates are depressed fully and completely missalign when the gates are at the top. Not really my invention but it is my rendition of an antique powder flask. Maybe you should take up muzzleloading, you do have the beard already. Need some buckskins and moccasins. :)
 
Just insane, Bruce. I like the pictures of your four legged supervisors too. Gruff looking crew.
 
Dave, I use DrafSight from Dassault Systemes, http://www.3ds.com/products/draftsight/overview/
on Linux, its free and works pretty much like AutoCad.

On a side note, I was like you guys and very intimidated by cad programs. But a good friend of mine that passed away some years ago helped me a lot by making me replicate a few bolts with a cad program. Sounds simple but it allowed me to learn the basic commands relatively fast and having something tangible to draw made all the difference.

I use cad for technical drawings but prefer Inkscape for more artistic work.

..oh and of course, I can't repeat it enough, thanks for sharing your work with us Bruce, much appreciated.
 
Patrice Lemée said:
Dave, I use DrafSight from Dassault Systemes, http://www.3ds.com/products/draftsight/overview/
on Linux, its free and works pretty much like AutoCad.

On a side note, I was like you guys and very intimidated by cad programs. But a good friend of mine that passed away some years ago helped me a lot by making me replicate a few bolts with a cad program. Sounds simple but it allowed me to learn the basic commands relatively fast and having something tangible to draw made all the difference.

I use cad for technical drawings but prefer Inkscape for more artistic work.

..oh and of course, I can't repeat it enough, thanks for sharing your work with us Bruce, much appreciated.
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Thanks Patrice, that looks very promising! I'll download that and see what I can figure out on my own. One nice thing about OSS, there's support out there if you look for it. Excellent! And I have Inkscape on my Mac, will have to look into that too. I'm not very good with drawing software, but it's just getting over the learning curve. I have a friend who is good at figuring out this sort of thing, I can lean on him. :)
 
Bruce Bump said:
Dave, yes the slots are for the springs and nearly bottom out when depressed. There is a 3/16" pin that acts as a stop in both open and closed position. The round holes do line up when the gates are depressed fully and completely missalign when the gates are at the top. Not really my invention but it is my rendition of an antique powder flask. Maybe you should take up muzzleloading, you do have the beard already. Need some buckskins and moccasins. :)
Click to expand...

Bruce, I've actually been thinking about getting a black powder rifle; I think that would be a 'blast!' The stop pins are the part I missed somehow, now I understand how the gates work. That is sure a cool mechanism - as cool as any part of the gun in my book. (Well, except that trigger guard.) Thanks for the explanation. I'm sure digging this project. I wish it would never end...your nightmare! LOL! Take care Bruce, and keep on makin.
 
Trudging forward I have the first coats of finish on the ram rod handle. I turned a mild steel sleeve to re-inforce the wood from the rod. I'm not sure what this rod is made of but its slightly flexable and unbreakable and called a "Super Rod" from Dixie Gun Works. Not very traditional but very functional. The last thing I need is the ram rod breaking off and driving a wood splinter in somebody's hand.

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