All I was trying to do is show my grinding jig setup, and to show that jigs of this nature work on many types of blade shapes, from drop point to a clip point. I don't need comments on my work from a forum, my customers do that, good and bad alike. I sure had no intent on getting any on the knives shown here, just used as an example. Sorry to the mods if I broke some rule. I have not been posting here in a while.
let's talk work rest bevel grinding jigs.
- Thread starter rhinoknives
- Start date
All I was trying to do is show my grinding jig setup, and to show that jigs of this nature work on many types of blade shapes, from drop point to a clip point. I don't need comments on my work from a forum, my customers do that, good and bad alike. I sure had no intent on getting any on the knives shown here, just used as an example. Sorry to the mods if I broke some rule. I have not been posting here in a while.
BonhamBlades
Well-Known Member
I have the angle pro and love it. It comes with a huge aluminum tool rest and platen plate. If you want more info or his email pm me.
My apologies to Tom. It did hit me wrong, had been a bad day. after reading the post again, I feel like a dog that got caught chewing on a shoe, can't hug the floor tight enough.
Stormcrow
Well-Known Member
Since I'm expanding into stock removal more and will be doing some big blades with it, I set up a work rest and jig that will let me work on bush swords with a total length of 24".
The angle is set with the platen, not the jig or work rest. The jig is just a couple of pieces of 2" angle with holes drilled to line up with the rivet holes in the tang. I have it where the majority of the cutting edge will be perpendicular to the platen. At first, I had a bit of trouble with the angle iron not sliding perfectly smoothly on the work rest. Then I added a bearing surface to the bottom off the angle iron made of a Wal*Mart polypropylene cutting board. Slides much better without being too slick.
And this Little Rok is the first test piece to be ground with this setup.
The angle is set with the platen, not the jig or work rest. The jig is just a couple of pieces of 2" angle with holes drilled to line up with the rivet holes in the tang. I have it where the majority of the cutting edge will be perpendicular to the platen. At first, I had a bit of trouble with the angle iron not sliding perfectly smoothly on the work rest. Then I added a bearing surface to the bottom off the angle iron made of a Wal*Mart polypropylene cutting board. Slides much better without being too slick.
And this Little Rok is the first test piece to be ground with this setup.
