Layout dye problems. Any help?

J. Doyle

J. Doyle

Dealer - Purveyor
Lately, I've been having problems when I go to scribe lines on my blides for grinding the bevels. I've always used starrett layout dye and still do for the moment. Lately when I try to scribe the lines, the dye just flakes off in pieces and can even be wiped off with my hand. The dye is a new bottle. I've shaken it up good. I've tried scribing right after I dye the edge and also waiting a whole day to let the dye dry. It's doing it on all my blades and I've tried using a sharpie marker with the same results. It's suddenly almost impossible to get nice clean scribe lines.

Is the tip on my scriber dull? Anyone have any ideas? Thanks for any input.
 
Is there any chance it froze? I've seen strange things happen to chemicals when they've gotten too cold. I was just thinking that I need to get all the epoxy and a few finishing products out of the shop now that the temps are dipping pretty low in the evening. Is there any oil or anything on the steel? I have used dye-kem and starrett kleenscribe on a number of different steel types, and never had it flake. I've also sharpened up a center punch and used it to mark when I couldn't locate my scribe. It wasn't nearly as sharp or hard as my carbide scribe, but I never got any flaking. Sorry, I know I'm not offering much help.. just thinking aloud (sort of)...
 
I've used the Dykem a lot at work and found that some times its a bad batch or it could be scale left on the steel.
 
Mine has done exactly the same thing. I cleaned the parts with acetone and tried it again.

It worked after I cleaned them so I must have had something like oil or grease that kept the dye form adhering correctly.

I also use a bit of dish soap in my cooling bucket to break the surface tension. The soap film may have played a part as well.

Wipe 'em down good with a solvent and let us know if it made a difference.

Johnny
 
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Johnny is right,I am sure it is some oil or something
that needs to be cleaned off.HOWEVER,I would use
plain rubbing alcohol.Acetone will leave an oily film,
that could give you problems.

God bless,Keith
 
I quit using any lay out fluid many years ago. It's expensive, it stinks, and it doesn't say on very well. I use a black chisel point magic marker. It holds up just as well and is cheap. It also dries instantly. When fitting guards to blades I run it inside the slot to highlight the tight spots. Give it a try.

David
 
Acetone leaves nothing behind. If you have an oily surface after acetone, it needs another wipe. Acetone will cool the metal, and draw moisture quickly in a humid aimosphere however. Thin the Dykem a tad with denatured alcohol, and you will get better results.
 
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