Latest tool - JET JMD18PF mill

Frank Hunter

Frank Hunter

Well-Known Member
One of the best things about the gun show I had a table at in Billings lately was a fellow fabricator I met - he's having me finish out some of his blanks and build him a big very practical and stout bowie in exchange for this mill. I definitely think it was worth the two hours down and back each way - now I just need to get it broke down, lubricated, and fired back up. It's a 1991-1992 JET JDM18 with the power down feed. I've got some questions and a few ideas.

I assume the power down is primarily a function for tapping ranges of threads, as it has 3 or 4 speeds down to choose from? Honestly, with this being a 2 horse machine I'd be afraid of it being a high-volume tap breaking tool until I get used to it.

The column is round and needs to be zeroed each time the head is elevated or descended. That's no biggie but I'm thinking it's more of a huge drill press with a solid 2 axis feed table than a mill with that considered - is there anything I need to know about the elevator function and accuracy on this machine? I'm thinking that I really want to have the head tight to the column before any side to side milling takes place.

Also - just what can I do with this? I do quite a few bowies that need the guard slotted, and I'm now going to be able to put fullers in my knife blades. I've also seen potential for milling barstock flat on one side prior to cutting it into sections for bolsters, etc. I think this is a really fair trade for my labor that I've got tied up in it, I'm just looking for other ways to put it to use. The previous owner had a long pigtail attached so I can place it pretty much where I want in the shop and be ready to run.

IMG_3694.jpg
 
I'm going to clean it up, lube it, spin the chuck a few times and then wait for some money to appear so I can buy a few milling cutters. It has a selection of collets and the aforementioned chuck already. I'm shooting for something compatible with the 304 stainless I use. Then I'll give some surfacing a shot and try out a few slots. I have a big and very fancy wakizashi job coming up soon and I'd love to be able to mill the fullers and just do the polishing by hand. It's going to be a real workhorse, I bet.
 
Don't tap with the power downfeed. That's for drilling and reaming.

Always take the slack out of the head by bringing it down past where you want it to be, then crank it back up a couple turns.

You might find that brings the spindle back to alignment.

Do the same when aligning the head to the table.

Always lock the head to the column before milling.

Lock the spindle too when milling.
 
Last edited:
Thanks, Don. The power down is just an absolute "take your hand off of it and let it feed" instead of a calibrated screw pitch feed then? Good - I'd hardly ever have use for something like that, and I've had some fairly big or deep holes done for associated work where it would have been great to not stand there for minutes upon minutes feeding the bit.

The spindle lock is nice and tight. The table seems free with just some high-hour related shenanigans going on with the feed wheels, the cranks themselves have some play but the x and y are tight with zero lash, it's going to get relubricated before I put any power to it. I'm tickled to have something of this caliber in the shop and have some thoughts going on with a rotary broaching process for non-round holes. I also dabble in gunsmithing work from time to time and this machine is going to have enough power I hope to tackle whatever I throw at it. If any of you are close to Billings, Montana and need a really good concrete contractor to work with I know one - can't say enough good about the guy.
 
Frank,
If you google this model or call Jet you should be able to get the manual for this baby for proper operation and maintenance.

This is a guess but the different speeds may really be for drilling & reaming different size holes and materilas like Stainless,brass or aluminum etc?
 
Sounds to me you made a great deal and went home with a machine I thought most makers should have. I still wish years ago I had somehow managed to get one. Frank
 
Frank Hunter said:
Thanks, Don. The power down is just an absolute "take your hand off of it and let it feed" instead of a calibrated screw pitch feed then? Good - I'd hardly ever have use for something like that, and I've had some fairly big or deep holes done for associated work where it would have been great to not stand there for minutes upon minutes feeding the bit.
Click to expand...

Yeah, it's not a feature most knifemakers will get much use out of.

you are gonna need a set of parallels too, probably some 1-2-3 blocks - I'd recommend some that have taped holes.

Look into speeds and feeds. A lot of guys think, oh I'll just run it supper slow and it'll be safe even though it may tak longer.

Sometimes that is the exact opposite of what you need to do. It ain't rocket surgery, and you can round the numbers and be close enough to run fine.

Remember don't climb mill

i can't think of anything off the top of my head. :). Enjoy it!
 
Nice! That's gonna come in real handy! I'd love to see pic's of it being used and things you are doing with it.
 
I'm in the market for a good vise, or two. Parallels are already on the list. I'm going to be cutting some fullers soon and I'll post up my progress with it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top