Kydex Sheath Help needed.

Mark Barone

Well-Known Member
Ok this isn't one of those "great attempt" type posts. I mucked it up. This is my first sheath. At first the sheath was really bad, then I adjusted a few things and made it worse. I thought it looked pretty at first, nice tight shape, I pulled the knife out and when I put it back in , the knife wouldn't come out. I had to do some surgery and remove some of the opening thinking that would help. Then I put it back on the oven and well enough said. Is anybody talented enough to draw around my knife the shape of the sheath might be. Then I thought maybe my grommets were too close to the blade. They were about 1/4 inch away all the way around. Any tips will help. I am pretty sure that close up picture section is the culprit.View attachment 67591View attachment 675910F69BF42-A37F-4BDD-AB2E-8FA95CA05C7C.jpgIMG_3661.jpg
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3662.JPG
    IMG_3662.JPG
    1.6 MB · Views: 1
Last edited:
Retro,I'm no expert with kydex but I've made quite a few. if I use kydex for a sheath then the knife I made for it was planned that way from the start. having said that one thing I learned early on is right at your finger junction at the front of the handle you need to knock off the sharp edges, you just got to do it and keep it so it looks good. those sharp edges will make it hard to remove the knife and also pull little shavings of kydex out every time to yank it out.
also, you need to keep that top rivet a distance away from the top so the sheath can open and close on itself while you put the knife in or out.
everything else will come to you, you just need to make a few.
 
I messed up my first couple too. Rivets are too close to the edge. Give it some more space. This knife is shaped similar to yours.

T3e.jpg
 
Retro,I'm no expert with kydex but I've made quite a few. if I use kydex for a sheath then the knife I made for it was planned that way from the start. having said that one thing I learned early on is right at your finger junction at the front of the handle you need to knock off the sharp edges, you just got to do it and keep it so it looks good. those sharp edges will make it hard to remove the knife and also pull little shavings of kydex out every time to yank it out.
also, you need to keep that top rivet a distance away from the top so the sheath can open and close on itself while you put the knife in or out.
everything else will come to you, you just need to make a few.

I had a feeling this was going to be a sacrificial one, thanks I'll make some changes.
 
I messed up my first couple too. Rivets are too close to the edge. Give it some more space. This knife is shaped similar to yours.

View attachment 67595
Yes very close to mine. I will keep the rivets back. Thanks for your help.
I'll post my next one tomorrow. Oh btw, why are some screws and are there bolts on the other side?
 
Last edited:
I agree with what the others have said. I have made the mistake of riveting to close to the ricasso and the knife is stuck. Simply not enough room for the kydex to flex open.
 
Something to be aware of when it comes to kydex..... Things always work out better when a knife is designed/built with a kydex sheath in mind. Designs like in your picture are super difficult to work well with kydex.

Kydex is all about "pinch points" (that's how it holds items in place)..... if there are any areas that come out like a "shelf" on the inside after molding, it's going to create problems.
Is the sheath in your pic pre, or post heated/molded?
 
Something to be aware of when it comes to kydex..... Things always work out better when a knife is designed/built with a kydex sheath in mind. Designs like in your picture are super difficult to work well with kydex.

Kydex is all about "pinch points" (that's how it holds items in place)..... if there are any areas that come out like a "shelf" on the inside after molding, it's going to create problems.
Is the sheath in your pic pre, or post heated/molded?
That sheath above was post molded. Then trimmed to get rid of the stubborn area, then thrown in the garbage. I learned a few things from the members above and made my second attempt. It's better but I still don't like the design. The knife comes out but that one side has to open up like a big mouth bass to get the back of the blade out.
I am not selling this knife so I won't redo it AGAIN. I was also so preoccupied with my first mistake I wasn't paying attention to the shiny side and made this sheath with one shiny and one matte side. I also didn't put in a belt loop. I will do that on my next sheath. I think I need to move on to another project. I am happy I learned some things today. IMG_3683.jpg
 
There is definitely a learning curve associated with kydex. I've done that "shiny side out" thing a time or two. :)

I took your pic and used it to give you my input....
IMG_3683.jpg
For that particular blade shape/style, I would trim the sheath along the white line (making its more smooth than my shakey line indicates).
Where that arrow is pointing..... is the "pinch point" for that particular knife....in other words, the plunge cut area is what "snaps in", and holds the knife in place. It's also the area where the pressure of the "pinch" has to be overcome to withdraw the knife from the sheath. So the placement of plunge cuts, among other things, is something you need to take into consideration on any knife that is destined for a kydex sheath. (That's one of the things that I meant when I said the design of the knife needs to be considered for kydex)
Hope that's helpful!
 
There is definitely a learning curve associated with kydex. I've done that "shiny side out" thing a time or two. :)

I took your pic and used it to give you my input....
View attachment 67610
For that particular blade shape/style, I would trim the sheath along the white line (making its more smooth than my shakey line indicates).
Where that arrow is pointing..... is the "pinch point" for that particular knife....in other words, the plunge cut area is what "snaps in", and holds the knife in place. It's also the area where the pressure of the "pinch" has to be overcome to withdraw the knife from the sheath. So the placement of plunge cuts, among other things, is something you need to take into consideration on any knife that is destined for a kydex sheath. (That's one of the things that I meant when I said the design of the knife needs to be considered for kydex)
Hope that's helpful!
Very helpful Ed, understand how the importance of the knife design impact the function of the sheath. So maybe I needed to go through this process. Pretty inexpensive lesson so I’m good. I will make that one change based on your drawing. I think that will help. Thanks again.
 
Back
Top