I download, and doctored your pics to try help explain a couple of things...
The first thing with kydex is to put a layer or two of masking/painter's tape over the portion of the knife that will be inside the kydex when your molding it. Kydex shrinks slightly as it cools, and that extra couple of thousandths of room that the taping provides is often times the difference between success a failure.
I placed an arrow on this photo to indicate what portion of the kydex "grips" the knife. In this case, I don't think that sheath is kydex...more likely it's injection molded plastic, which is a different animal. However, if you notice the overall shape of the blade/knife, it tapers (top and bottom) towards the tip...which is an advantage when using kydex for a sheath.
In order to make kydex work for this type of blade/knife, the top is going to have to be trimmed basically as I have indicated with the inside curve of the arc. The arrow indicates where the kydex "grips"/snaps with this type of knife. Your thickest area is of course the handle, and that finger groove is where the kydex must "snap" over the knife. I can't be sure, but the handle appears to be wood? If so, that's a poor choice because the kydex will eventually start scarring up/abrading a wood handle. If I produce a knife of this type, and the customer indicates they want kydex, I will only handle the knife with something tougher than the kydex...such as Micarta or G10. Otherwise I know the knife is going to come back to me sometime in the future for new handles.
The other thing that doesn't make this knife a good candidate in my opinion is the way the spine of the knife curves up in the middle...in some cases it's going to interfere with inserting/withdrawing the knife, and in the worst case the knife simply will not come out once the kydex is molded. That's a prime example of what I was saying previously about the knife needing to be designed with the use of kydex in mind.
Hope that information is helpful!