Just getting started

[aelgin]

This is my first knife, I kept it simple with a pattern similar to some of the Green Rivers I have. It's 5/32" thick 1095. The handle is tiger striped Dymondwood. Pins are 1/4" brass lanyard tubing. It turned out ok, but the blade didn't harden quite as much I was hoping for. After reading some more of the forums on here I see that 1095 might not be the best starter steel. I think I'll go for 1084 on my next batch. I apologize for the picture quality, the lighting options were a little sub-par. Any comments or suggestions would be great.







Thanks!
Aaron

 

[DBAR]

It looks pretty good for your first blade. I just recently started myself, and I went with O1 tool steel for the ease of heat treating.



Don

 

[honey nuts]

Looks real good.i like it keep it up

 

[KDX]

Looks good. Enjoying making them is probably the best part.

 

[Doug Lester]

A good looking basic knife. The sheath looks well made too. I think that you would do well with something like 1080 or 1084. They are more forgiving steels for the beginner to heat treat if they don't have a high temperature oven to austinize in.

Doug

 

[slatroni]

You have done a fine job! Hard to believe that is your first. I am looking forward to seeing your second knife!

 

[Jason Wernli]

Nice job. Great first knife. I bet you are hooked. Leather looks good too. I Look forward to seeing your next knife!
- Jason

 

[aelgin]

Thanks for all the input and compliments. I'm definitely hooked. I have 3 more on the bench now that I'm working on as time allows.

While this was my first knife, it was not my first sheath. I've probably made about 15 of them over the last couple years for knives that came with ones I didn't like or didn't have one at all.


-Aaron

 

[jmforge]

Looks better than a lot of our firsts. Did you start off trying to make a big bowie and end up with a Green River knife? If not, then you are already ahead of the game.:lol:

 

[LR Adkins]

Wish my first looked that good. Nice start into knife making, looks pretty good.

Larry

 

[aelgin]

Haha No it didn't start out as a bowie. The only thing that changed from the original plan was the plunge lines. They kept moving farther down and blending in more as I worked it. Hopefully I'll get some practice on plunge cuts for the next one.

-Aaron

 

[aelgin]

Knife #2 completed. I learned a lot on this one. Spent way too long hand sanding to get it to a point I liked. My wife wasn't too excited about all the hand sanding in the house, but it was way too cold in the shop. I am going to pick up some additional sanding belts for the next one to get it closer to finished before I start the hand sanding. Ed's video on how he does plunge lines was a huge help, thanks!
3/16" thick 1095. Roughly 9" overall with a 4 " blade. Hand rubbed satin finish. Natural Micarta scales. Stainless steel bolts. Hand stitched 8-10oz leather sheath.
Any comments and critiques are welcome and appreciated.





Thank you,
Aaron

 

[Self Made Knives]

That looks great! A big improvement from the first one for sure, not that there was anything wrong with that one. Did you make your scales removable? With the bolts on both sides, looks like maybe you threaded the tang? Just curious. Anyway, great job, I like it.

 

[aelgin]

Thanks Anthony. The scales are removable. I used a three piece pivot bolt, from USA Knife Maker, so it has a barrel that you slide in the middle, and then one screw on each side to cinch it up into the countersink. I was going to go with chain ring bolts but this was more of the look my friend wanted.

-Aaron

 

[Dennis Morland]

aelgin
Your first knife looks good. More importantly, your second one looks better. You are going in the right direction.

Ed's video helped me, also. Keep on learning and each knife will keep getting a little bit better.

The only criticism that I have is the metal connectors on your sheath touching the knife. It may not matter with this knife so much, but, eventually those connectors may cause a scratch to a handle. Especially the snap connector when the snap is closed around the handle. Keep an eye out on that.

Keep up the good work and welcome to the madness.

DeMo

 

[aelgin]

A little skinner I recently finished up. Sort of a mini nessmuk style
1095 with black and blue G10 and nickel pins


Thanks for looking
-Aaron

 

[aelgin]

Another recently finished. Similar to a previous one I made with some improvements. I added a subtle thumb ramp and used some smaller pivots and screws.
1095 with micarta handle


Thanks,
Aaron

 

[dswait]

Really great looking knife, especially for a first!
You did a really great job on the handle and sheath.

1095 is a pretty simple high carbon steel, I use to have the trouble of it getting TOO hard and would end up cracking during heat treat using old canola oil. I got parks 50 and have not had an issue heat treating 1095 since. What quench medium are you using and how hot are you getting the blade? Also how are you testing for hardness?

Again, really great job for a first, can't wait to see the next one!
Actually, just noticed there was a second page to the thread. Holy smokes, your follow up knives are a significant improvement! Really awesome job on those, you're going to be a great knife maker. Keep it up!

 

[aelgin]

Dswait,
I have been using canola oil as a quench so far. I'm using a small forge for heat treating, so I don't have actual temp readings. I go to nonmagnetic, and then hold it for a little while. I don't have any definitive way to check hardness either. I just use files to check hardness. I'm pretty low tech at this point. Eventually I'll get some of the more fun tools to refine my processes.

Thanks for your comments.

-Aaron

 

[aelgin]

Made a sheath for a cold steel ATC kukri for a friend. First sheath this big I've made. Turned out pretty nice.