Hand Satin & Hi Polish

P

paladin5811

Big Dog...
Lets here how you guys do your hand satin and hi polish finishes on blades.

What grit belts do you finish up with ?

What grit for hand work ?

What do you use to lube your paper for the hand work ?

What types of steel do you like to do a high polish on ?

What grit do you finish up with before you hit the buffer ?

What types of buffing wheels and compounds do you use ?

Lets here your recipe ?
 
For any finish except bead blast, I take my grinds up to 16 microns. I usually take the flats to 45 microns. I find it is much easier to finish the blade at these levels. For hand sanding, I have some blocks I made that are radiused to match my wheels. I start with 400 grit sandpaper and spray the blade with 409. I usually don't go any higher than 600 grit, but I have went up to 1000 grit. I also use a 600 grit greaseless compound on my buffer for a satin finish. This looks different than a hand satin finish. I like this too. For buffing, I do the same thing on the grinder but use a different wheel on the buffer with the pink compound. You have to be totally focused on what you are doing when using the buffer or you will get hurt, espeically on the 3600 RPM buffer.
-John
 
John Barker said:
...
You have to be totally focused on what you are doing when using the buffer or you will get hurt, espeically on the 3600 RPM buffer.
-John
Click to expand...

Absolutely!!!
One of the most dangerous machines in The Shop.
It'll grab that blade quicker than snot. unsure

The Formax 600 Grit Compound makes for a very nice satin finish. 2thumbs
 
Well, Here is my very simple way to satin finish. First, get yoursely a container of Mobil 1 motor oil in say 15 weight or whatever. Start with a sandpaper size one size courser than you think you need and a hard sanding block tht contours to the blade shape. On hollow ground blades I use a micarta block cut with a contour just a bit smaller than the wheel size to grind the hollow. For flats, I use a flat piece. Place some of the Mobil 1 on the blade and start stroking length wise. You will find there is no need to worry about fish hooks or swirls. Continue down to what you like for looks. Really this works super. Frank
 
Beware of buffers! A couple of weeks ago I was doing some light buffing on the bolsters of a slipjoint. I had one second of lapse and it was gone, all I heard was a crack when it hit the floor. It knocked it completly apart. Buffers are very dangerous.

Sean
 
Frank Niro said:
Well, Here is my very simple way to satin finish. First, get yoursely a container of Mobil 1 motor oil in say 15 weight...
Click to expand...

Vegetable oil works just as well and doesn't cause skin problems that petroleum products can.
 
I grind the hollow using 60,120,220,400, then 600.
Hit the flats on a disc sander with 220.
Then hand sand the flats only with 220, 320, and 400 using leather on a board all pulling strokes starting from the mid tang to tip. Use whatever lube is laying close by. Usually ducks back spray.
Buff with green compound then finish with pink scratchless compound on a different wheel of course. The pink scratchless is amazing stuff.
I like to see the grind lines on the hollow so I leave them at 600.
 
Shank: the pink compound will remove any cloudiness when you are getting near mirror finish.
the green compound will polish and give the metal color (the deep blue tone or nearly black reflection when you are perfect mirror)

I use the pink compound on red or brown colored wood also.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top