Getting rid of scratches....question?

Dave Broughton

Dave Broughton

Well-Known Member
I use a 1"X 42" sander and a fairly fine sand paper. I then use the sanding blocks to finish off the handles. I know that tiny scratches has an adverse effect on the final finish. the sanding grooves cause the reflection of light to go in slanted directions, which is a no no and reduces the shine I want. I want the light to reflect back as straight as possible which gives us the glossy look we desire....anyway, what is the best way to get the ultra smooth surface before the buffing? Thanks!

Dave
 
Well, just how fine of a sand paper are you using? Typically, before I buff on most materials it's at least 600 grit or 45 micron - and for others like hardened blades, or some fine softer woods where too much buffing will erode them, 1200 to 2000 grit.
 
Frank Hunter said:
Well, just how fine of a sand paper are you using? Typically, before I buff on most materials it's at least 600 grit or 45 micron - and for others like hardened blades, or some fine softer woods where too much buffing will erode them, 1200 to 2000 grit.
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I think my sanding blocks are 600 but not sure. I'll check on that. I can't see the small scratches unless I spray water on the handles or give it a light buffing with jewelry paste......
 
I take some of my knives to 600/45 micron then use Scotchbrite belts for a satin finish. Using the buffing compound will high light your scratches. If you want them to shine bright you need to go higher in your grits.

Another trick I learned from the late Bob Engnath of Blades & Stuff, The fastest most prolific Grinder I ever saw by a LONG shot! Sand both directions, after going length ways, then go across with the same grit and all of the scratches left will appear before your eyes. Go back to the previous grit and do it again.

Look around on Google, you may find his tutorial on hand sanding?
 
Thanks Frank and Rhino.......I do try to cross sand. I can see the scratches and the direction they go and I do my best to cross sand and I'm still getting tiny grooves that I don't want. I think I need to go to a higher grit and work at it. My next order or my next visit to Lowes will include a finer grit for sure......
 
Some say they get better results with a drop of Mobil one motor oil.
There is a thread here somewhere you may want to check out?
 
rhinoknives said:
Some say they get better results with a drop of Mobil one motor oil.
There is a thread here somewhere you may want to check out?
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Wouldn't that darken the handle? I dye all my antler handles in Potassiun Permanganate which turns them very black. When I sand them the white comes to the surface and I have a very acceptable handle that I like......I'm afraid the oil will have a negative effect on the whiteness......does that make sense?
 
I do a lot of sanding. I prefer the step grit method. I start with 60-80 grit in both directions and then move to 220 then 320.. Until I'm at 1500 then I can sand with a used piece of 1500 ( I use files and sandpaper until they are completely worn out) So far it's worked good. The machines are great, if you are comfortable with them, Which I am not. It takes a lot of time but the results are worth it I think
 
rhinoknives said:
Dave,
The few drops of motor oil is for helping your hand sanding. long before you attach your handle.
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Thats good, just one of the reasons I'm glad I found this forum. Its a learning process and every thing you digest is beneficial down the road......thanks
 
I use motor oil only when I get to the finer grits of sanding. It suspends the abraded material and provides for longer lasting sand paper.
I always rub the blade down until I think it couldn't possibly get any better, and then I rub it some more.
...just me....
 
Dave Broughton said:
Both of these sites were great......I used up quite a lot of printing paper on these two but it was worth it. Thanks for the info....
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I'm glad to be able to help.
Not a knife maker but I do read a bunch :)

Bruce, the author of the 2nd set of tutorials, said that when he'd got to polishing (with the really fine grits 1500 & up) he'd use windex.


In my experiments when sharpening with sandpaper WD40 seemed better for sharpening and windex better for polishing.

Just thought I'd throw that out there.
 
I use Scrubbing Bubbles. It has a fresh clean smell, also it's squeaky clean for etching. Usually go up to 2000 grit.
 
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