Those belts are annoying to put in the grinder. They like to twist. I've taken to hanging a weight off them when I hang them up. Keeps them from twisting.I think the bevel is coming a bit better, but the more I try with the 2" grinder, the more I am wiping out the short curve of the recurve. The overhead light in the shot is so harsh, you can't see the bevel as it looks in real life. The karambit was in the drawer for the past 5 years maybe? I got some inspiration from Leo Todeschini's blades that he did for Tom Hardy's character on Taboo. This was just an attempt to see if I could hack out the rough shape with an angle grinder from an old circular saw blade. I am not thrilled with the ergo on it, especially the index hole. I had so much issue with that, I couldn't even consider doing the two hold knuckle duster style that he came up with. Anyway, if I try that shape again, in some real steel, I think I will spend more time in my drawing packages, and perhaps some time with cardboard to get the shaping right.
Anyway, I got a little excitement from the new belt grinder, as I learned how to turn a 2x72 into a 3/4 x 72 by cartching a cutting corner right into the belt. It was quite exciting as it shredded off a big slice of the belt, then tried to beat me silly with it before letting it fly freely across the room. On a good note, the blade itself was gone from my hands so quickly that I had to go looking for it. No one was hurt, and nothing was damaged except for a 120 2x72 belt that is now about 3/4". And I have some 120 for the lathe.
All that aside, I am considering straightening up the front side of the tang just a touch more, and doing a 1/2 hidden through tang.(is this even the correct term) The idea being that I want the spine and tang visible on the palm side of the handle, as well as the butt (pommel end?) but not on the finger side. I figure this way I can provide some more ergo to the fingers, but still have that nice stripe of steel on the handle of the knife. But still thinking about it.
I have posted this knife process elsewhere. I prefaced the posts that I "know the knife can't be hardened because it was made from 1018." I hadn't thought anything of it, other than as an exercise in shaping and grinding. But one fellow on FaceBook replied with this:
I'd never heard of such a thing, but figured I would ask if anyone ever heard of doing such before?
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But I found the fast way to get them off the grinder
I didn't even realize I showed a hammer. Are you talking about the ball peen or cross peen hammer? If you are talking about the ball peen, I won't be modifying that. Sometimes I put that in the vise and use the face as an anvil for small items or peening over rivets. It gets a fair amount of use.
I wanted to do it as an exercise in offset turning on the lathe for an oval was to the handle. But it may be a fun piece to try to mod I to a rounding hammer.
I was sharpening something the other day (I don't remember what) and the the thing I was grinding snagged the belt seam and ripped the belt in half. NOT fun.But I found the fast way to get them off the grinder
I have a 10lb sledge on a stubby handle that I forge with. One handed beast. Definitely a workout compared to a 4lb rounding hammer. Moves plenty of material, though!The cross peen one is mostly what I used this case. I do have a significant sledge head, that I was considering rehandling into a one handed beast
Sorry, Bradley, I put my post in the wrong thread and don’t know quite how I managed that. It was intended for another thread, but I see Chris saw it, so that’s good.I didn't even realize I showed a hammer. Are you talking about the ball peen or cross peen hammer? If you are talking about the ball peen, I won't be modifying that. Sometimes I put that in the vise and use the face as an anvil for small items or peening over rivets. It gets a fair amount of use.
The cross peen one is mostly what I used this case. I do have a significant sledge head, that I was considering rehandling into a one handed beast
I just saw one with carbide ball bearings brazed I to the faces. The guy was using it to demonstrate stretching/shrinking removing warp.
But... I am really not interested in becoming a blacksmith.
I do restore some antique tools, so u have a bunch yet to do. It can be zen like, but I have to work my self up to it. So what's a few extra tools hanging around? Maybe when I can get rid of 10 or more hand saws I can start collecting hammers.
I am sure that over time I will develop a preference, or at least an opinion on that topic. At present, since I only coverted a 2" belt to a 3/4" belt, I didn't get the whole "sproing!" effect that I might have.
Not a biggie! I was just confused because I didn't remember including the hammers in the photograph. But then, I don't know you all that well, and perhaps you are clairvoyant or psychic or something
It's in my to-do pile. If I remember correctly, all I did beyond getting the rest of the handle off was a quick evaporust bath. It seemed to be in reasonably good enough shape to do something with, Up until recently, I was considering it would make a nice anvil gripped in the vise instead of my big ball peen because it has a larger face, and flat sides, where the BP has curved sides. But now, who knows, maybe it can become a hammer That is the AmeriBrade (Mastery Package).
I never intended for this knife to be hardened, just wanted something to practice basic grinding/shaping techniques on. But, some people see every challenge as something to be solved
It's sort of impressive how low of quality the steel is that they use for those frames. It could be dead soft in one spot and 60RHC in another... just inches apart, sometimes!
Assuming one were to come into possession of some bed frames and not want to sleep on them, how would you go through testing to see if the metal would be good for blade making? I am aware of spark testing and quench testing, and snap testing. But I have found some bed frames that remind me of anti-drilling matrix in safe doors. Big mix of everything from bread dough to diamonds...