REK Knives
Well-Known Member
Also, what HP do you guys recommend on the drill press? Is 1/2 hp sufficient or do i need more...
Fixed blade handles - need help
- Thread starter REK Knives
- Start date
rhinoknives
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I ordered the Gflex last friday I believe it was =) Thanks for the recommendation!
Yeah I am planning on using the sandpaper on glass trick to make sure the scales are flat... do I need to do this with the knife itself as well? It is just flat-stock i got from NJ Baron, so it is flat allready, although I don't know if it is "bent" at all anywhere. I guess I could test it... One very helpful tip John pointed out was to take my drill press and make dimples all over the inside of the scale (kind of like a golf ball look) that way it will have something for the epoxy to recess into and grab. I will probably not be peening my pins as I don't see it as necessary due to advise from others. The epoxy should hold it just fine.
why do you drill your holes before the bevels? What difference does it make? I am curious now
The reason why is that many of us taper our tangs and I don't know of a way to do this without the holes being pre drilled unless you have a surface grinder? The other reason I drill the tang first is to start to eliminate as much weight as possible and it helps me get the balance point I want at the index finger as I grind the bevels. A 1/2hp will work for a drill press, I prefer a full HP or more.
The first time I every saw a HF drill press was in the late 90's in Mr Bob Loveless's shop. He had three of those cheap little 1/4 hp drill presses lined up and each one was set up with a different bit and depth for one procedure only. One for steel, one for Micarta and one for counter sinking the scales for his loveless bolts. So you can get away with the little ones.
You want to check everything you are putting to getting to make sure the scales & tang are true.
Tom in Orlando
Member
I've only made around 20 knives but I use Devcon and so far they're all still stuck together (not in one big clump or anything like that!). I have used Corbys but on one knife I did grind too much and just about went thru - you can see a slightly depressed dimple in the center of it. If I have to I will drill it out and pin it. I like using mosaic pins to dress up the knife a bit. They cost a bit more but they look good. I haven't gotten the hang of Loveless bolts but love the look of them. My advice is to wear disposable gloves like they have at the hospital. I like to apply epoxy liberally so the gloves work well for me. Make sure that you mask off anything that you don't want epoxy on with blue painters tape or similar. Epoxying is my least favorite part of knifemaking but after the epoxy hardens is my favorite part so it's worth it. My drill press is a Porter Cable 1 HP it was only around $320 or so at Lowes and it kicks butt so far. I get carbide bits to drill hardened steel though.
REK Knives
Well-Known Member
Yeah I got a carbide bit to drill through some liners that I was trying to skelotonize (that I had already started the hole on with another bit) and right after I started it snapped the edges off of my carbide bit =(that was money down the drain! any tips?