First attempt - Puukko - Added Photos per request

opaul

Well-Known Member
I can see now why people like these little knives - they are fun to make and can really be dressed up. I finished this one today, 5160 steel with curly kao, micarta and brass. OAL is 8.25" with a 4" blade. I'm still putting on coats of oil so it's not completely finished.

 

opaul

Well-Known Member
I like it a lot. I have never done a Puukko.
Thanks Chris. I have always wanted to make one and I'm sure this one will not be the last. I rounded the spine on from the guard to about mid way to the tip. After doing a little more reading I see where they are left square for fire steel. But I'm happy with it.
 

Heikki

Well-Known Member
Your first attempts always look like they're your fifth or sixth. Nicely done! With a name like Heikkila, I need to add one to my list of styles to try :)
 

opaul

Well-Known Member
Your first attempts always look like they're your fifth or sixth. Nicely done! With a name like Heikkila, I need to add one to my list of styles to try :)
Ha! Yes that would seem natural :)
Thanks! You should try one. The through tang with sections made fitting up the handle less complex. I added a brass screw to the end of the tang and peened it over (not visible in the photo).
I saw a video where the maker drilled a hole about the diameter of the brass screw head and then slotted the end of the tang. He fitted the brass screw in and peened the head of the brass screw into the hole he drilled for the screw head. I tried it on this and it worked really well.
 

IJM3567

Member
OPaul, I’m curious about this method of through tang as it’s something I’ve been thinking of doing but do not have welding or brazing equipment. Any chance you have a photo or that video? Thanks!
 

opaul

Well-Known Member
OPaul, I’m curious about this method of through tang as it’s something I’ve been thinking of doing but do not have welding or brazing equipment. Any chance you have a photo or that video? Thanks!
I will take some photos tomorrow and post them for you.
 

opaul

Well-Known Member
OPaul, I’m curious about this method of through tang as it’s something I’ve been thinking of doing but do not have welding or brazing equipment. Any chance you have a photo or that video? Thanks!
Here are the photos. I did a quick mock up in the shop, not my neatest work but hopefully you get the idea. You can use your calipers to gauge hole size and slot size for your choice of bolts/screws. Once you have it fitted you can sand it flush. I'm sure there are different ways of doing this Let me know how it works for you. ADDED - I neglected to say that you peen the brass in the drilled hole.
Pay no attention to that scrap metal :). It was many years ago in a shop far away that was tossed in the bucket.




 
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IJM3567

Member
Ok that is what I was starting to picture. You use a screw similar diameter to your stock thickness though correct? I rarely ever use stock above 1/8” which makes for a pretty small bolt. Otherwise your bolt wouldn’t fit through your guard/bolster slot..
 

opaul

Well-Known Member
Ok that is what I was starting to picture. You use a screw similar diameter to your stock thickness though correct? I rarely ever use stock above 1/8” which makes for a pretty small bolt. Otherwise your bolt wouldn’t fit through your guard/bolster slot..
You can fit up your bolster/guard prior to fitting the bolt on the end of the tang. I’ve used both #8 and # 10 sizes. The bolt can be thicker than your blade thickness or thinner for that matter.
If this method doesn’t work for you another method is rounding the end of your tang and threading it. I’ve done it that way as well. I like using brass however if the end cap is brass or if brass would look better.
 

IJM3567

Member
Yeah I was thinking that’d be the only way to use a larger diameter. I’ll give it a shot when I get around to a stacked leather handle, thanks!
 
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