Thanks Chris. I have always wanted to make one and I'm sure this one will not be the last. I rounded the spine on from the guard to about mid way to the tip. After doing a little more reading I see where they are left square for fire steel. But I'm happy with it.I like it a lot. I have never done a Puukko.
Ha! Yes that would seem naturalYour first attempts always look like they're your fifth or sixth. Nicely done! With a name like Heikkila, I need to add one to my list of styles to try![]()
I will take some photos tomorrow and post them for you.OPaul, I’m curious about this method of through tang as it’s something I’ve been thinking of doing but do not have welding or brazing equipment. Any chance you have a photo or that video? Thanks!
Here are the photos. I did a quick mock up in the shop, not my neatest work but hopefully you get the idea. You can use your calipers to gauge hole size and slot size for your choice of bolts/screws. Once you have it fitted you can sand it flush. I'm sure there are different ways of doing this Let me know how it works for you. ADDED - I neglected to say that you peen the brass in the drilled hole.OPaul, I’m curious about this method of through tang as it’s something I’ve been thinking of doing but do not have welding or brazing equipment. Any chance you have a photo or that video? Thanks!
You can fit up your bolster/guard prior to fitting the bolt on the end of the tang. I’ve used both #8 and # 10 sizes. The bolt can be thicker than your blade thickness or thinner for that matter.Ok that is what I was starting to picture. You use a screw similar diameter to your stock thickness though correct? I rarely ever use stock above 1/8” which makes for a pretty small bolt. Otherwise your bolt wouldn’t fit through your guard/bolster slot..