Etching Makers Mark issues

Txcwboy

Txcwboy

Well-Known Member
I built one of the AC/DC etchers everyone uses. I have the stencils from "that guy" a lot use. I even bought the fluids from IMG. I just cant get a good etch. I just found out the +/- were reversed on schematics and I corrected that. I tried CMP154 and 30SV and neither are cutting good but darken decent. Leaving a unacceptable mark. I never know which fluid to use, I tried them all it seems. I normally do 10 sec cut, turn it off and 10 sec cut again and turn it off.Then do the darken 10 sec. I tried to over cut the CMP154 with 30 sec and it still didnt make a very deep mark. Had to sand blade and do it again. Still didnt come out very good. Now I have to sand the 30SV blade to get ride of the mark and try again. HELPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPP ! please:sad:

Dave
 
I built my etcher using Chris Crawfords tutorial. However for fluid I use water/vinegar/salt mix, to a cup and 1/2 of distilled water I add 1 teaspoon of salt and one teaspoon of vinegar and I dont any trouble.
If by "that guy" you mean Ernie Grospitch, I will only use stencils from him. I had the same trouble you are having, called Ernie up and told him my process and what was happening, two days later I had a new set of stencils in the mail that work perfect.
If you bought your stencils from him I would suggest shooting him an email, he is a great guy and can no doubt help you out.
 
Yes it was Ernie. Couldnt remember his name. I bulit mine like Chris Crawfords also. Are you etching SS ? or tool ?
 
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I do 10--10sec cycles on etch then 5--10 msec cycles on mark,comes out good.On cmp154.
Stan
 
Maybe I am reading your original post wrong. How many 10 second cycles are you running on DC? It sounds like you are looking for a fully developed mark after 2-3 cycles and that isn't likely to happen unless you are running very high voltage...and then burning the stencil is likely.

It is not unusual for me to run 15-20 cycles of 10s on/20s off and for bigger marks I have done over 30. You need to move the etching pad around too as the metal will clog it up. It was very informative when I put a multimeter inline and watched the current. Each time I pressed down the current starts high and drops off very fast, so most of the marking is done early.
 
I was only doing a couple. SO I just need to do it more and lift the pad in between and move it around. What fluid are ya'll using ?

Im going to use SC-44 next time.

THANKS !!!
 
Hello,
I am using Sc-44 but have gotten great results by putting a 1/4 tea into a 2-3 oz of water.
Like CDH said, You need to hold it down and move it around!

Take a Junker that has been harden, I know you have several!:biggrin: and work on it holding for at less a five count and moving for another until you get the deep cut you want with your etching rig!

After a while you will get a feel for your etch machine and etch-ant! on the steels you use.

Laurence

www.westsidesharpening.com/
 
I tried "junker" :biggrin: today and did 8- 10 sec cuts and 5 darkens. Checked it and it darkened fine but didnt cut worth poop !!! So I got out my etch-O-matic used 2 10 sec applications and the etch came out perfect !!! Something to do with my home made etcher ...its not cutting. Hmm
 
Darkening==AC
Cutting==DC

No significant crossover between the two. Cut first with DC, switch to AC and darken.

I use the tang of the blade for tests. It will be covered by handle material anyway, and you know it's the exact same material so it'll etch exactly the same.
 
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