Double guard and framed handle, rear bolsters too

In the morning the liners are epoxied onto both sides of the tang/frame and clamped with pinch clamps.

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This is time consuming because JB Weld is a slow cure epoxy and needs about 7-8 hours to cure but after it drys I re-drill all 15 holes to remove the epoxy in them and sand the liners some more to match perfectly the frame.

I mix up a 5 minute epoxy to hold the first scale in place. The scales just pop on and slightly wedge down tight so fast cure epoxy works fine here but not on the second scale with all the pins to mess around with.

Anyway black tape holds it tight until it cures..

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The holes need to be drilled out again to remove excess epoxy. I use the same shortened drill bits as not to go deeper than before.

I have a bunch of brass pins that measure .010" less diameter than the drilled holes. These undersized pins will allow epoxy around them to fill any voids and also allow the scale to slide into place easier.

I had to cut and grind each one to the exact same length and used a solid steel block with a hole drilled through it. Simply grind the head off one end, flip it around and grind the other end.

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i used the slow cure epoxy for the second scale because it takes longer than 5 minutes to fit with all the pins floating around. Be sure to dry fit before applying epoxy. The excess epoxy needs to be cleaned off the outside of everything to avoid having to scrape and sand it off when its cured. There will be some more clean up afterward but its minimal and mostly just along the liners.

The black tape is wrapped very tight around it instead of clamps that sometimes shift when the lights go out at night.

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WOW!!! This is so good. Bruce, not only are you a great artist/craftsman, but a teacher beyond belief! Why couldn't some of my high school teachers been half as good? I think I'm going to try another hidden tang (I went back and read your hidden tang WIP).

Ken H>
 
I almost missed the (checkering) affect on the edges of the liners. I saw that in another post and wondered about it. Now I know how to do it. Thanks for that along with everything else, Bruce.
 
Coining is a a detail that adds more interest. I read in another thread recently that you do it with a small file and and a spacer you made from an old file,you mentioned that they could be filled with epoxy for a smooth finish.

What about the epoxy from the handle assembly? That seems it would be impossible to remove from the coining or did you clean up before it set?

One more, will it go to the engraver?

Thanks,your work inspires me

Mark
 
Mark Behnke said:
What about the epoxy from the handle assembly? That seems it would be impossible to remove from the coining or did you clean up before it set?

Mark
Click to expand...
I was wondering the same thing.

And I think black electrical tape may need to be added to the elite level of duct tape and bailing wire. There always seems to be another use for the stuff!
(I say that because I've learned to use it playing soccer, to keep the tops of my socks up...)
 
BRad704 said:
I was wondering the same thing.

And I think black electrical tape may need to be added to the elite level of duct tape and bailing wire. There always seems to be another use for the stuff!
(I say that because I've learned to use it playing soccer, to keep the tops of my socks up...)
Click to expand...

Black tape is a marvelous invention as it has a "springy" tendency and in this case works way better than clamps. The handle epoxy does fill the coining areas and I dont even try to clean it out but just sand it flush with the rest of the liner. Usually I add black pigment to the epoxy but didn't this time as clear epoxy will pick up the black fiber spacer color next to it. If the filler isn't black enough I can wipe on some India Ink to further blacken it.

I think this one will go to the engraver and sheath maker.
 
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Heres a quick shot of the spacing tool I made from a file. I dont have the actual screw slot file pic, sorry but I could elaborate on this if somebody wants me to.
I like this method. The spacing and width can be adjusted by making new files. These are needle files or small files. Brownells catalog sells the "screw slot" files in various thickness but you can just surface grind your own from a new needle file with good edges.

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Bruce Thank you so very much for sharing your skill and art with us. What I saw you do in those photos was inspiring . Thank you . Wild Bill
 
Thanks everybody that peeked in here and especially commented. I appreciated the in fine compliments on my passion with knives.

I do believe this tutorial is nearly completed save for a shot of the sheath I'm having made by my friend Claude Scott and possibly a picture after the engraving from Jere Davidson.

Here is the last run of pictures and the completed knife

The scales needed to be matched to the liners and frame and blended at the pommel and guard. The dremel is so useful for this. I buy a grit variety pack on ebay of mostly the 1/2" drums. I also use allot of finger nail emery boards from Sallys Beauty Supply, so many they know me by name now. I should check on-line to see if they are available in quantity. These boards have a stiff but padded paper on them and they last surprisingly long. They go all the way to 4000 grit too. I also use allot of sand paper and buy them from "Supergrit" in 50 sheet reams. This file cabinet is great for clean storage.

For the final finish I use a buffer with a dab of white rouge. It takes only an instant to put the final finish on the ivory by buffing if the correct steps were taken on the hand sanding. The metal isn't buffed but hand sanded to "pink" polishing cloth (4000 grit)

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Here are the final pictures of the bowie. From here it will get a sheath and engraving.

Thanks again for tuning in to this thread. Again questions and comments are appreciated

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Great build, thanks for posting it. I do like engraving but I must admit I like the knife as is, super clean.

I dont have the actual screw slot file pic, sorry but I could elaborate on this if somebody wants me to.
Click to expand...

Ok I will be the first to ask I can't seam to figure it out.
 
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