Darkening After Etching on AEB-L

MTBob

MTBob

Well-Known Member
I'm just finishing a knife for a customer and found that using my Personalizer with SC-1 electrolyte on AEB-L that I didn't get a darkened mark after etching. The etching seemed to work pretty good, but it just wouldn't darken.
Should I use a different electrolyte, or is there another work around that I should consider? Brownells gun blue didn't mark at all.


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I generally do the etch and then flip the switch to "mark". Though I can't say it makes a huge difference.

There are different electrolytes for stainless versus high carbon blades.
 
chrisstaniar said:
I generally do the etch and then flip the switch to "mark". Though I can't say it makes a huge difference.

There are different electrolytes for stainless versus high carbon blades.
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Chris, I used the Etch / Mark sequence you mentioned. And, set the power knob to about 4, then dabbing the pad on/off for about 5 seconds, about 7-8 times.
I'll take a look at the electroyte I have and see if there is one specifically for stainless steel.
 
MTBob said:
Chris, I used the Etch / Mark sequence you mentioned. And, set the power knob to about 4, then dabbing the pad on/off for about 5 seconds, about 7-8 times.
I'll take a look at the electroyte I have and see if there is one specifically for stainless steel.
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I use the Knife Dogs Electrolyte SC-44 Black Oxide and Deep Etching. I always get a nice dark mark with it using the Etch/Mark sequence. I do hold the etch pad down longer than you, maybe 15 seconds or so. My etcher has no power setting, it's on or off.

The SC-44 was the only electrolyte I was able to get a dark mark with on AEB-L.
 
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CDHumiston said:
I use the Knife Dogs Electrolyte SC-44 Black Oxide and Deep Etching. I always get a nice dark mark with it using the Etch/Mark sequence. I do hold the etch pad down longer than you, maybe 15 seconds or so. My etcher has no power setting, it's on or off.

The SC-44 was the only electrolyte I was able to get a dark mark with on AEB-L.
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Chris, thanks, I'll get some of that juice and give it another try. On KD's website it looks like there is also an electrolyte specifically made for stainless, SC-35.
 
MTBob said:
Chris, thanks, I'll get some of that juice and give it another try. On KD's website it looks like there is also an electrolyte specifically made for stainless, SC-35.
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I only have the SC-44 and a E-600 from Knife Dogs. The SC-44 is the only one that gives me a dark etch. I also have Neutralyte, but I never use it.
 
SC-1 and AEBL? I have also etched Magancut, 20CV, S35VN, Elmax and Nitro V with the same solution? is your felt pad dirty??
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I've got some new electrolyte coming and will use it on a set of new blades now in process.
 
If the felt pad is removeable, you may be able to wash it out? Also, the etchant is a salty solution, so the pad may be crusty or the pad may be crusty on the contact point on the wand. I regularly use scotchbrite on my graphite block and rinse or change out my felt pad on my homemade etcher wand. If it doesn't etch or darken well, it's usually because the contact pieces (felt and conducter of the wand) need cleaning. Regular Crafting felt works well.
 

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Taz575 said:
If the felt pad is removeable, you may be able to wash it out? Also, the etchant is a salty solution, so the pad may be crusty or the pad may be crusty on the contact point on the wand. I regularly use scotchbrite on my graphite block and rinse or change out my felt pad on my homemade etcher wand. If it doesn't etch or darken well, it's usually because the contact pieces (felt and conducter of the wand) need cleaning. Regular Crafting felt works well.
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Thanks, that's really good advice! Much appreciated.
 
Not sure if it would work on SS but people like Kyle Royer use Cold Blue on hi carbon stuff. Do your etch, sand lightly, clean good and apply the cold bluing. Wipe off excess and Sandrine you would for etch?? Again not sure it would work for SS?
 
Gliden07 said:
Not sure if it would work on SS but people like Kyle Royer use Cold Blue on hi carbon stuff. Do your etch, sand lightly, clean good and apply the cold bluing. Wipe off excess and Sandrine you would for etch?? Again not sure it would work for SS?
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Ya, I've done that on carbon steel, works great. The Brownell's bluing I have doesn't touch stainless.
I thought of mixing some black dye into epoxy and working that into the etch depression. That ought to give a pretty tough blackening. But, I think to make this technique work, the epoxy would have to be applies about 1-2 grits before final finishing to make sure all the excess epoxy came off around the etched holes.
 
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