I've had experience with the ratcheting belt tension mechanisms, and for the most part they are great. Notice I said "for the most part"..... where I came to dislike them is when using J weight belts..... I'd grind a bit, and any J weight belt would have to be retracked back to center, time and time again. I finally figure out what was going on..... as the belt heated up, it would stretch to the limit of the small spring that was suppose to keep it tight, and because of the "ratchet" mechanism, it would reach the limit of it's ability to hold the belt tight. At first I thought no big deal, just reach up and give the ratchet adjustment another click or two..... that was until I did that with a mylar backed belt..... it flew off the machine, and I took a nice gash on the right side of my face from the belt edge. I tend to be very cautious around grinders that use that type of belt tension setup now.

That doesn't mean they aren't "good"...... they're just not good FOR ME.
I know I've said it before, but it bears repeating that there is no one grinder out there that is "perfect". In my experience you will either need to modify the grinder to your liking, or adjust your usage/methods to the grinder. I'm of the first one. Because I have experience with many different grinders, when considering a grinder, I look for the one(s) that offer me the least necessary modification to make it work as I want it to.
I do have a personal list of "deal breakers" that will turn me away from any given 2X72" machine....
1. Anything other then a 1 1/2" tooling arm (I personally dislike aluminum, but that easily solved with a visit to the local steel yard. But if I'm not gona use it, why am I paying for it?)
2. Ratcheting belt tension adjustment (because it bit me once, and I won't give it another chance)
3. Grooved tracking, drive, or platen wheels. (this was tried way back in the 80s, and several people got injured when they tried to use those grooved wheels as a contact wheel to grind on... the belt shredded, causing things from minor cuts to people loosing eyes.)
4. A grinder that comes with the hydraulic spring cylinders for belt tension (because I'd change to a typical coil spring anyway, and again, why pay for it if I won't use it)
5. Under built (those that use "lightweight" as a selling point.....to me that's just another way of saying "We're too cheap to build it heavy duty")
6. "Open" motors, and any VFD other then a KBAC with the NEMA enclosure. (Open motors are a burn out waiting to happen in a grinder application, as is any VFD without a NEMA enclosure. I specify the KBAC brand VFD, simply because I have spent countless hours trying to help others with problems in other brands, and over the years since their introduction, have only had ONE KBAC fail, and that was totally my bone headed fault.)
7. "Bells and Whistles".....by that I mean anything that doesn't contribute to the machine's function as a grinder. (Powder coating, fancy paint jobs, etc...... what are you trying to cover up? If I want the machine painted, I can do it for a lot less then what I'm being charged for the fancy powder coating or paint job)
In the past it was much easier for the "new guy".....there were only 3-4 choices for "good" 2x72" grinders, and no matter which one you chose, it was a safe bet you'd have a very high quality machine that would last a lifetime. That all changed when knifemaking became the "vouge" thing to do..... most of the "Johnny come lately" outfits offering grinders are looking at only the dollar signs, plagiarized existing designs, and adding what they they think is"cool factor". In many ways I view the current grinder market like I do the Made in China knives..... rip off designs, that are far lesser machines then the originals.