billyO
Well-Known Member
That's why they're considered capital....
Canister Damascus
- Thread starter KenH
- Start date
Yep, that's what I understand. I've got a bar of 5/16" X 1-1/2" mild steel (1018 I think) to cut the 5" base from. I've also got two pieces of mild steel that's 1"X3"X5" (left over from a project a few yrs ago) I'll use to make a longer flattening die with. Also plan to have a set of squaring dies made by the time the press gets here which looks like should be here by end of April.
Ken H>
Chris Railey
Well-Known Member
Cool man I am happy for you. Get ready to become addicted to making your own Damascus. Canister or layered. San-Mai, Go-Mai no problem with the press (although I can still do it with a hammer). You can make you own hammers and Hardy tools much easier too.
Yep, I've made a few San Mai billets with my "arm 'n hammer" method but have a hard time keeping the core centered nice and even from end to end. I'm hoping with a press and the long flattening dies it will work much better. I normally use 416 SS as the outside layers with 1095 or 1080 as the core.
Man. Ken. Can't say I'd let that go 2 seconds without placing an order for it...
In fact. I can say unequivocally - most generous offer.
I got email today saying the press has shipped via FedeX. FedeX shows 4 packages - not sure what that's all about. The press ships in 2 packages and the cart I would think was 1 package. Not sure what the 4th package is all about. I guess we'll see when it gets here - this week I hope! Maybe Friday?
I'll make a run to TSC and pick up 5 gal hydraulic fluid for the press. It says the tank holds 4 gal.
AND weather is showing 80% rain this weekend!
Ken H>
I'll make a run to TSC and pick up 5 gal hydraulic fluid for the press. It says the tank holds 4 gal.
AND weather is showing 80% rain this weekend!
Ken H>
Chris Railey
Well-Known Member
Good forging weather if you have a covered forge. I am happy for you, I think you will like it.
My forging area is totally outside. I normally roll forge from inside to outside on a grassy area at side of building, then after forging and with forged cooled down roll it back inside. For the press I'm thinking it'll be stored in garage, move forge to garage allowing me to easy roll forge and press outside on concrete drive for forging. At day's end I'll roll it all back inside, smooth concrete should make that easy to do.
I wonder if the press would be alright left outside for a few days at a time when using every day if it was covered with a tarp when not in use? I could roll back inside when not planning to use for several days? Comment?
BTW Chris (and other folks), how much is an anvil used when forging with the press? My question is because the anvil is permanently mounted at my normal forging area, and the press is planned to be used at other end of building perhaps 75 feet away. I'll know more about this once the press is setup and I can see how it moves around on the cart.
Later
I wonder if the press would be alright left outside for a few days at a time when using every day if it was covered with a tarp when not in use? I could roll back inside when not planning to use for several days? Comment?
BTW Chris (and other folks), how much is an anvil used when forging with the press? My question is because the anvil is permanently mounted at my normal forging area, and the press is planned to be used at other end of building perhaps 75 feet away. I'll know more about this once the press is setup and I can see how it moves around on the cart.
Later
billyO
Well-Known Member
I guess that depends, but I use the anvil on every blade and almost every billet at least for straightening things.
Chris Railey
Well-Known Member
The only thing that I use the anvil for When drawing out things with my press is just for straightening the billet a little bit between heat. Sometimes the wear plates on the side get a little loose and you have to tighten those bolts you will know when its getting loose when your steel starts going wonky on you and then I just use my Hammer and anvil to straighten.
If you are using it to forge weld billets I really do not use the anvil at all when welding.
Please let me know how you like the cart because I kind of have mine rigged up On a heavy cart but would consider upgrading.
If you are using it to forge weld billets I really do not use the anvil at all when welding.
Please let me know how you like the cart because I kind of have mine rigged up On a heavy cart but would consider upgrading.
Thanks Chris - that's sorta what I was thinking that during the actual billet forging an anvil wouldn't used much. BUT - I suspect day in and day out an anvil will be handy to have right there at the forge/press area for the "odd ball" things that come up just as BillyO says.
FedEx still have not posted a scheduled delivery date yet, says "pending". I'm sure hoping it does get here by Friday.
I'm not sure about the cart - they said it was good, we'll see. I'd like to have 8" or 10" wheels so it would be easier to move around on grass. Then I could roll it out back at my normal forging area with anvil.
FedEx still have not posted a scheduled delivery date yet, says "pending". I'm sure hoping it does get here by Friday.
I'm not sure about the cart - they said it was good, we'll see. I'd like to have 8" or 10" wheels so it would be easier to move around on grass. Then I could roll it out back at my normal forging area with anvil.
billyO
Well-Known Member
Looks like Chris beat me, but I do use it frequently when using the press to straighten out the billet when needed. I guess that could be done with the flat dies on the press, but a lot of times it's just easier to whack the billet with a hammer rather than switch out the dies. Even with a quick change die system.
FedEx is showing scheduled delivery TOMORROW!!! April 22nd.
The more I've thought about it the more I think I need to rig a way to use the press at my normal forging area. There I've got a nice steel work table with a really nice 6" vise (over 50 lb for sure), anvil, and it's where my welders are setup to use. I'm thinking perhaps even if it's a bit of hassle to move outside it would be best. I could leave press outside covered with a tarp when not in uses for a few days at a time, then back inside for longer term storage.
For ya'll who've not seen the cart I'm talking about, Coal Iron says it's rated at a 1,000 lb and 5" wheels. Total weight will be 140 + 120 + 4 gal oil making total weight almost 300 lb with dies etc added in. To me that seems a lot for that cart, but we'll see.
If the press were mounted with the ram on bottom so the die is moving upwards would make a cart easy to build, but for some reason that just seems awkward. Coal Iron says the press can be mounted either way. Comments?
The more I've thought about it the more I think I need to rig a way to use the press at my normal forging area. There I've got a nice steel work table with a really nice 6" vise (over 50 lb for sure), anvil, and it's where my welders are setup to use. I'm thinking perhaps even if it's a bit of hassle to move outside it would be best. I could leave press outside covered with a tarp when not in uses for a few days at a time, then back inside for longer term storage.
For ya'll who've not seen the cart I'm talking about, Coal Iron says it's rated at a 1,000 lb and 5" wheels. Total weight will be 140 + 120 + 4 gal oil making total weight almost 300 lb with dies etc added in. To me that seems a lot for that cart, but we'll see.
If the press were mounted with the ram on bottom so the die is moving upwards would make a cart easy to build, but for some reason that just seems awkward. Coal Iron says the press can be mounted either way. Comments?
billyO
Well-Known Member
I don't see any reason why it couldn't be. The design looks like all the stress would be from the billet out
But I think that having the bottom die moving upwards would take some getting used to. It'll be a little tougher to keep things flat and square because you'll have to constantly adjust your wrist angle, and wouldn't be able to lock your grip/tongs against your body for stability. but like I said, you'd probably get used to it relatively quickly.
That's sorta what I've been thinking also. I've seen them mounted with ram at bottom but just doesn't seem natural to me. I'll be trying it as shown in the cart photo.
Chris Railey
Well-Known Member
FedEx is showing scheduled delivery TOMORROW!!! April 22nd.
The more I've thought about it the more I think I need to rig a way to use the press at my normal forging area. There I've got a nice steel work table with a really nice 6" vise (over 50 lb for sure), anvil, and it's where my welders are setup to use. I'm thinking perhaps even if it's a bit of hassle to move outside it would be best. I could leave press outside covered with a tarp when not in uses for a few days at a time, then back inside for longer term storage.
For ya'll who've not seen the cart I'm talking about, Coal Iron says it's rated at a 1,000 lb and 5" wheels. Total weight will be 140 + 120 + 4 gal oil making total weight almost 300 lb with dies etc added in. To me that seems a lot for that cart, but we'll see.
If the press were mounted with the ram on bottom so the die is moving upwards would make a cart easy to build, but for some reason that just seems awkward. Coal Iron says the press can be mounted either way. Comments?
I have mine mounted up acting because I am 6ft. 1 and do not want to bend over constantly nor do I want to build a 5 foot tall cart. I have noticed no difficulty in having it mounted this way but this is also the only forge press I have ever used. My fly press is down acting and I really do not notice a difference between the two. Just make sure you attach the hoses correctly for how you mount the press to keep the controls from being reversed.
I can see where building a cart for an upward acting press would be easier - only a low table a foot high perhaps. That would keep the center of gravity low for moving around. "IF" this wire cart doesn't work out I might well try an upward acting press since it would be fairly easy to rig the cart for that.
Chris Railey
Well-Known Member
On my cart the actual work piece sits just under chest high which is where I prefer it because I can really see what is going on with both sides of the billet. I would think it boils down to personal preference. You will figure out how you like it as you go. I will try and remember to measure the distance between holes on the dies when I get home tonight.