Sean Jones
Well-Known Member
That's the way I do it sometimes. I get the bevels started with the bubble jig. Once I've established the angle I can free hand it, as long as I'm very careful that is.
Brad's KITH for Chris Reiley - Finished
- Thread starter Brad Walker
- Start date
Brad Walker
Well-Known Member
I moved the bevels closer to the top. Still have a lot of hand sanding to do on the flats. The blade is getting close to 200 grit. I'll finish hand sanding the flats then even out the lines as I go up in grit. The edge is just shy of dime thickness. Once I thin that out, she's ready for sharpening.
Sean Jones
Well-Known Member
Looking good!
Brad Walker
Well-Known Member
Hey, I'm back. Wow, it's been a busy week and I haven't had a lot of time to work on Chris' knife. Yesterday I got the copper liners attached to the scales and I thinned the bevel to a sharpening thickness. Today, wow, 5+ hours of hand sanding and that was only 1 side of the blade. I have never hand sanded a bevel before, I've only sanded the flats. I had no idea I was moving through the belts prematurely and leaving too many deep scratches. It was definitely an eyeopener!! I'll finish the other side tomorrow, etch my mark, and hopefully sharpen. Anxious to hear everyone's thoughts.
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Chris Railey
Well-Known Member
That is gonna be awesome. I also just happen to really like copper on a knife. Well done.
Brad Walker
Well-Known Member
Today was another long day in the shop. We were clean and at 800 grit on both sides. Then I put a little WD-40 on the blade, wrapped it in a shop towel, and taped it up to fit the handles. When I removed the wrap after fitting the handles, I had spots on both sides. I'm back down to 400 grit and still can't get them to go away. I decided to step away and do something else. So I sharpened it. It will shave!! I'll get the marks out, hopefully, in the morning and etch my mark. No pictures today. All of them turned out really good and don't show the spots that are a pain in my @$$!
The good news is, this has been a tremendous learning experience. This is the first time I've hand sanded the entire blade. This build has also caused me to rethink some of the ways I do things. As frustrating as OJT is, I love it!! Can't wait to show the final product!
The good news is, this has been a tremendous learning experience. This is the first time I've hand sanded the entire blade. This build has also caused me to rethink some of the ways I do things. As frustrating as OJT is, I love it!! Can't wait to show the final product!
Gene Kimmi
KNIFE MAKER
I like the profile on this one. A warning on hand sanding. Once I hand sanded my first blade, it’s virtually impossible for me to let one leave the shop without being hand sanded. There’s just something about a clean, hand sanded blade that I like.
Sean Jones
Well-Known Member
I've had similar things happen while hand sanding. Gene is right about hand sanding. When it's done right it looks so good.
I have a blade for my grand daughter that I'm almost finished with. I put the handle on, unwrapped the blade and you guessed it. I've got more hand sanding to do. Not a lot, but it is frustrating when you think you are done with one part and then you have to go back and at the least, touch it up.
Brad Walker
Well-Known Member
I totally agree. I cant imagine doing this on every blade. All total, I've got over 8 hours in handsanding. However, a lot of that was my fault for not letting the grinder take out the deep scratches. I can see that if I use my grinder properly, that the handsanding portiin could be sped up considerably.
Gene Kimmi
KNIFE MAKER
Getting your process figured out on the grinder is critical to shortening hand sanding time. Once I figured out the best process for me, I can now sand a blade to a clean 400 in less than 30 minutes. Usually 15 to 20 minutes. And don’t be afraid to go back to the grinder. If I see 220 or 400 grit scratches from the grinder when I start hand sanding, I go back and grind them out. It’s way faster than hand sanding them out.
Chris Railey
Well-Known Member
If you do not already have one even a cheap opti-visor from HF helps to see when you are really ready to hand sand. Also natural light helps too. Put the visor on get in some natural light and inspect. That helped me a lot with cutting down on hand sanding time.
Brad Walker
Well-Known Member
I have a pair of bifocal safety glasses that I use, or I wear my readers. I have wondered if an opti-visor would be better.
Bruce McLeish
Well-Known Member
yes, yes , yes. And I would add: Go for the real deal : opti visor, like any good tool it's pricey...but I've had mine and used it for over 15 years.
Brad Walker
Well-Known Member
I would love to hear Doug M say "It will cut!". The cost of losing focus while handsanding. I haven't made too many knives that hasn't caused me to bleed at least once.
Chris Railey
Well-Known Member
Now we know it works.
Brad Walker
Well-Known Member
Well, It's been a good day. My phone barely rang, so I was able to focus much better. Handles are attached, shaped, and finished. The sheath is finished. Just some final work on the blade and I think I'm done.
I do have a question. It seems the higher I go in grit on the blade, the more cloudy it gets. Should I step back down in grit? I was much more happy with it at 600, than I am at 1,000. Of course, now the handles are on and the dreaded sand line will show with anything I do on the recasso!
I do have a question. It seems the higher I go in grit on the blade, the more cloudy it gets. Should I step back down in grit? I was much more happy with it at 600, than I am at 1,000. Of course, now the handles are on and the dreaded sand line will show with anything I do on the recasso!
Chris Railey
Well-Known Member
Man that looks awesome. As far as the finish goes, do what you like. I will like it no matter what. I stole an idea from Ed which has never let me down. I prefer an etched finish on knives I make but when I do not etch I like a satin finish. I sand the blade to 600 grit then I sand with a Klingspor Medium grit sanding block finishing with single direction pulls down the length of the blade. It looks awesome.
Brad Walker
Well-Known Member
FINISHED!!!!!!!!! This has been the most frustrating but most fun build I have ever done. I believe it definitely pushed me to the limit of my current abilities. I was hesitant to sign up, but I am so glad I did. Chris, I hope you are happy with your knife. I humbly request that you be brutally honest to the smallest detail! That's the only way I am going to learn. And post them for all to see. Someone else may have the same issue. (I will enclose a note along with the knife that points out some questions I have in regards to the blade.) I appreciate everyone's comments and suggestions!! So glad I joined this group.
Some of the things I learned
*Don't forget to compensate for the weight of the copper liners
*When using metal liners, grind a fuller to allow for epoxy to hold. (the liner didn't hold to the scales, had to re-do)
*Copper liners do not attach to the scale like G-10. Requires much more prep and caution
*Copper gets hot really quick, a fast dip doesn't work
*Roughing the entire metal liner leaves visible marks when against the handles.
*I need a better way to sharpen than the Worksharp sharpener. It will cut, just not a perfect secondary bevel
*I must find a video on how to handsand near the scales after they it have been attached. I tried, but definitely could have done better
*Etch my mark closer to the finish of my handsanding. I though I was going to sand it out!
*After handsanding, I have a love hate relationship with my grinder
*ONLY shape the part of the scales that meet the blade with the grinder. STOP cutting a 45 degree around the entire scales. Take the time to shape them evenly by hand
*When frustrated, walk away. I'll thank me later!
*Once I get past Christmas, I'm going to start on next years KITH Knife!!*
*And a few more I'll think of later
