Book Recommendations

S

snagg

Member
I did a search for previous results for book recommendations but didn't get any results. So, can you folks offer any suggestions for me.
I'm kinda looking for beginner books covering the steps in order for basic knives. Also covering normalizing and other heat treating processes.
I've made four skinning knives but sorta fumbled thru it. None of my rivets came out straight or even. I used split chain saw bars for the blades and would like to start using 1080 or 1084 steel. ( I think )
Thanks in advance. Tony
 
My first knife making book was by Jim Hrisoulas. (I think that’s how it’s spelled) Internet has pretty much replaced books for me. Don’t waste any more time with chainsaw bars and junk like that. A bar of 1084 from NJSB will set you back just a few bucks, and well worth it too. For heat treating, try Larrin Thomas’s book. I don’t remember the name, google will help ya find it. Good luck.
 
Here's the link for Larrin Thomas' book Knife Engineering on Amazon. It's quite useful, though if you are new to knife making it can be a bit demanding. If you do a search on Amazon for knife making you will find many titles. Also USAKnifemaker, who sponsors this website, has a number of books of interest as well.

I read a lot, so I can get lost in books. But these are some good starting points.
 
Edwards, thanks for the reply. I guess I still prefer books as references and for learning. You are correct about the internet though. You tube has topics and info on everything in the world. It's just that some of the folks get a bit long winded.

Soundmind, You're the second to recommend Larrins book so I'll definitely have a look at it.

Sean, thanks for replying. I had previously followed Knifemakers link to their site. They have so much to offer which is why I asked for help here, to help narrow the search down somewhat. I like books to. I've had a variety of interests over the years and was able to get so much info from books.
 
My first book was "The $50 Knife Shop" great book but definitely not as deep into Heat treating as it seems you want to go! As far as steels however any 10XX Steels should serve you well!! 1075, 1080 and 1084 are fantastic steels for all makers, new or experienced (stay away from 1095 for now)!! As others have said especially being relatively new to this stay with known steels as they do increase your chance of success! I will modify my last statement with do use mystery steel for practice! It's great for messing around and trying ideas out without using your known steels. All that said ask questions, there are many well known makers here that are a wealth of knowledge and aren't afraid to pass it on!
 
Books are great and that is where I started but I will offer another suggestion. Look around your area and you may find an experienced knifemaker who is willing to let you come to their shop and learn. Some may charge some may not but it is a great way to take a giant leap forward in a short amount of time. For those who do not charge you, try to find a way to be useful to them and you will get invited back. It is also a great way to learn about what tooling is actually needed to make knives rather than winging it. If you were in Georgia you could come to my shop and I bet many others on here would make the same offer. Just a thought.
 
snagg said:
Edwards, thanks for the reply. I guess I still prefer books as references and for learning. You are correct about the internet though. You tube has topics and info on everything in the world. It's just that some of the folks get a bit long winded.

Soundmind, You're the second to recommend Larrins book so I'll definitely have a look at it.

Sean, thanks for replying. I had previously followed Knifemakers link to their site. They have so much to offer which is why I asked for help here, to help narrow the search down somewhat. I like books to. I've had a variety of interests over the years and was able to get so much info from books.
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To narrow down your search some.

Any book by Murray Carter. The "$50 dollar knife shop" has already been mentioned. A bit dated in my opinion, but it still has good information.

"Knife Making Hacks" by Jason Fry is also a good one. Jason is also a member here on KnifeDogs. His book is on my list to buy next.

Are you doing stock removal or forging? That might help narrow down some suggestions as well.
 
Gliden07, I like the term "mystery steel." I used laminated chain saw bars for my first 4 skinning knives. It seemed plenty hard and I did have some blunders so I'm glad I didn't learn on good steel. Most of my mistakes were on attaching the handles to the blades with the rivets. Of the 4 knives I couldn't get even one of the rivets straight. Practice makes perfect I suppose.

Chris Railey, Not sure how to go about finding local knife makers but it would be helpful giving it a go. I'm up here in NW Pa. so Georgia would be quite a drive. lol I do appreciate the offer though.

Sean Jones, I would put myself in the stock removal category. Forging would be down the road a ways for now. I'm still at the "struggling with the getting my rivets assembled correctly" stage of knife making

Thanks again for all the help. Tony
 
snagg said:
Chris Railey, Not sure how to go about finding local knife makers but it would be helpful giving it a go. I'm up here in NW Pa. so Georgia would be quite a drive. lol I do appreciate the offer though.
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Forums like this are a good start. Also do a google search for a Pa. knifemakers guild or a Blacksmith's guild. Look on the American Bladesmith's Society's page at their member list. It shows members and their home towns. Go to local craft fairs there are bound to be some makers set up to sale, hopefully they are local. Just a few suggestions.
 
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Do you have a picture of the handles you wouldn’t mind sharing? I’m certain that people on here could help ya out if they see what you were dealing with.
 
I'll also make a strong recommendation for Larrin's book. A wealth of knowledge there.

I'll also second the idea of forums - I've learned more from the nice folks on this forum than any book, and I'm a big reader. GREAT place here. Ask questions, post photos, etc. If it wasn't so far from PA I'd sure suggest a visit to my shop.
 
Chris Railey, the search gave me some names. Some were a bit of a drive but still worth investigating.

Edward, I do have a pic of one of the skinners I made and posted it on the intro page along with my introduction. The knives have been gifted out so I'll need to get over to one of my sons homes to get a closer up pic, which I'll do.

KenH, It seems unanimous for Larrins book. Now it's up to me to track one down. Roughly how far from NW Pa. are you?
 
How to Make Knives by Richard Barney and Bob Loveless is a good book! David Boye had a book out, too, but it's an older one. The $50 knife shop is good, too.
 
snagg said:
Not sure how to go about finding local knife makers but it would be helpful giving it a go. I'm up here in NW Pa. so Georgia would be quite a drive. lol I do appreciate the offer though.
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Do a google search for your local blacksmith organization. A lot of knifemakers are also blacksmiths.
 
Edward, This a couple pics of the rivets. Couldn't zoom in enough to show how crooked they are but the shiny spots on the rivet head are where the sanding belt contacted and the dull spots are well below the surface. If I had gone any further I'd a ground part of the head off.
I made four skinners with three rivets per. That's 12 rivets and not one came out right. Either crooked as hell or way too deep.
 

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snagg said:
Edward, This a couple pics of the rivets. Couldn't zoom in enough to show how crooked they are but the shiny spots on the rivet head are where the sanding belt contacted and the dull spots are well below the surface. If I had gone any further I'd a ground part of the head off.
I made four skinners with three rivets per. That's 12 rivets and not one came out right. Either crooked as hell or way too deep.
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I see what you mean. Are you using a drill press? About all I can say so far, is make sure you are spending time to lay them out, scribe yourself lines, and center punch them before you drill, that will help. They look like two piece rivets. You will probably find regular pins will be easier. If you want to use rivets, they take a fair bit of measurements and planning to get them to seat together properly while not protruding beyond the handle.
 
my process for doing similar work is as follows:
I profile the blade, rough in my bevels, then mark and drill my holes. I heat treat the blade, then do my grinding and finishing on the steel. Next I take my handle scales, very roughly shaped, and glue one side on using spray repositionable adhesive. I drill through that side, then glue on the other side, and drill through from the previous side. Once that’s done, I mark how I want the front of the scale to look, pull both scales off, and stick the two scales together, using pins through the holes I just drilled to keep it all lined up. Then I shape and finish the front of the scales. I will use pins to keep everything lined up and mount and dismount the scales as needed till they are shaped and nearly finished. At that point I take them off and countersink my rivets (I use Torx bolts not rivets, same principle though). Once they are countersunk, I do a second-to-last finishing, then mount my scales for a final time, and do my finish sanding and polishing. That works if both sides of your tang are parallel. If using a tapered tang, I use my tilting table on the drill press to compensate for the taper in the tang so that the holes can be drilled perpendicular to the center line of the blade, which takes a bit of figuring sometimes. I prefer to keep the heads of my bolts about .010”below the handle material. This keeps the bolt head, or rivet from wearing proud of the handle material over time.
 
Gliden07 said:
My first book was "The $50 Knife Shop" great book but definitely not as deep into Heat treating as it seems you want to go! As far as steels however any 10XX Steels should serve you well!! 1075, 1080 and 1084 are fantastic steels for all makers, new or experienced (stay away from 1095 for now)!! As others have said especially being relatively new to this stay with known steels as they do increase your chance of success! I will modify my last statement with do use mystery steel for practice! It's great for messing around and trying ideas out without using your known steels. All that said ask questions, there are many well known makers here that are a wealth of knowledge and aren't afraid to pass it on!
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Why do you say stay away from 1095 steel right now. I am also new to knife making.
 
Moe56 said:
Why do you say stay away from 1095 steel right now. I am also new to knife making.
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The Heat Treat is a bit more involved than say 1080, 1084 and 1075. You can still use it but it's not as beginner friendly. Now if you had a bunch of super cheap or free 1095 I'd try it because of cost. But if your gonna buy I would buy one of the other 3 steels for an easier heat treat and hopefully a better result.
 
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