Thanks for all the compliments guys. I'm just throwing steel in a can and roasting it like chestnuts over an open fire here. Merry Christmas to all!
Ohhhh..........dont leave us hanging on this one. SOOOOO COOOOL
I need to see the finished blade
Ray, I,m not following you. Please explain for us "senior citizens"I haven't read the whole thread so someone may have mentioned this. I've found it easier to drill through at the apexes and then saw to them. That way they're already rounded.
Bruce, I think he drills a hole say 5/16" at the points that you will saw to in the billet. Then if you saw to the sides of the holes you will have your valleys prerounded.
Thanks again for all the hassles and time you spend to share all your skills. Jim
Well, I actually made a really cool folder with this steel.........long story short I need to re-make it because the blade doesn't lock good enough. Not one of my better weeks. Check back again because I,m still gonna use the other half of this bar.
Well........its been 8 months.
I wasn't allowed to play with moms camera as a child so I,m making up for it now. Hehee
I,m still planning to make something with this bar.
OK I went back and re-read the entire WIP again, I now see just how late I am!! This was started over a year ago!
I have a question, this one came to me while I was trying to figure out what would happen once you added the 1084, my question is how do you know how a pattern is going to turn out? Is there a way to design a pattern before you start forging? I'm sure certain steps will give predicted results, for the most part, but how do you know what those steps are? Is it something you learned somewhere, or a design you thought up? Or is it all experimental? Try something different and see what happens? I guess this is called pattern development? I like to be original, I have yet to find my niche, I can see Damascus as a way to be original, if I can learn the process of how to predict how to make a pattern turn out a specific way, I don't expect you to give me a dissertation on "Damascus Pattern Development". but some books or some references to where I can find the info would be plenty, you do so much as it is, I hate to ask for more. But I know that you will give all you can and then some! I do have Jim Hrisoulas's book on Damascus, and he shows a lot of info, but I don't think I have ever seen any info anywhere about developing or creating something new or original. I have thought about it a lot, and what I came up with (so far) was to basically to experiment, once I can get my welds solid, and know what the pattern looks like without looking. Right now that's the plan, unless you can shed some light on this for me. Although experimenting with Damascus patterns doesn't sound like a terrible way to spend my time, as long as my money doesn't run out for steel I should be OK.
One more thing, I have been noticing more of the lower count patterns in some of the knife magazines I read, is there a benefit to using lower count pattern, as far as performance goes? I can see the benefits as far as making it, less time, less gas, less steel, etc., I was curious if it cut as well as a higher count Damascus. Now I don't want to start the topic of Damascus being a performance steel, from what I have actually seen, the higher count (layers) Damascus is really sharp, my wife picked one up at Blade one year, before I could warn her, she was cut! Yup, that quick, the lower count knives I've seen look really nice, and of course you know I want to make some! It looks like it would be good practice, and I should have a better chance at making some that I could use...maybe...IT COULD HAPPEN!!! OK Bud, I've loaded you down pretty good, Thanks for the help, Rex
BTW,please excuse the typos, it's too late to proof this tonight.
For pattern development try polymer clay, you can do just about any pattern. This is from a demo by Tom Ferry at the CA. hammer-in.
I use the clay technique as well -- actually play dough . What I have found best for cutting the billet is to take an old electrical cord that is made of stranded copper wire. Cut the insulation off the wire and use one strand of the wire to slice through the billet. The smooth wire and small size all greatly reduces smearing.