Baldor 1/4HP 1800 rpm buffer adequate ?

S

steelerfan88

Well-Known Member
I am wondering if I really need a 1 HP buffer. I am shopping for a good, reliable machine and have seen the 1/4HP Baldor at $280.00 and was wondering how it will perform. Is it big enough ? I am NOT doing mirror finishes on my blades. I am only finishing to 220g and Scotch brite belt. I am just looking to put a nice shine on my handles and the steel a satin finish. Please tell me your thoughts on this :)
 
I've owned one of those machines, and personally I found it too "weak" for my liking. I think its tailored more towards things like jewlery. I don't do a lot of buffing, normally guards and handles, but it just didn't have enough power. Right now I have two different buffers in the shop.... a Baldor 332B, 3/4hp, 1800rpm, and a Jet JSB-10L. The Jet is my actual "buffing" machine, and the Baldor is setup with a super fine wire wheel on one side, and a scotchbrite wheel on the other.

I personally like the Jet machine because it has much longer shafts, which means better clearance.....I can do much more with it then I can with the shorter shaft, Baldor machine. The Jet is a 1hp, and its in the $270 price range (BONUS!) :)
 
1/4hp is pretty low for a buffer. For that money, find a used one or a jet like Ed mentions.
 
Ed and Boss both have MUCH more experience than I have in knife making and most likely have buffed more blades 'n handles in a week than I do in a year. I really respect their knowledge and experience, but allow me to offer a differing opinion.

I used a 1hp buffer for a while, but it was a 3600 RPM motor. Even with small buffer wheels it was faster than I liked - remember, it's not the motor RPM, but the surface speed of the wheel that counts. That 1hp size had the power to really grab a blade and sling it good. It could be scary! I changed to a 1/4hp, 1725 motor and really REALLY prefer the small motor. Using a 1/2" wheel the wheel will just collapse rather than grab a blade. There is plenty of power as when I'm looking to put a real shine on a blade, I sand the blade up to 1200+ grit. Then it just takes a light touch to bring out the shine, not taking much power at all. Also when buffing a handle there is much less chance of burn on the handle.

I'd never really consider buying a high dollar buffer - just pick up a cheap 1/4 to 1/3 hp motor to use. The typical cheap motor is going to have a fairly short shaft, but with a mandrel installed to the shaft to hold the wheel it will be "long enough" to work. It really doesn't even need to be TEFC because the dust isn't metal as in a grinder. Make a point to blow the motor out with air pressure from time to time. You'll be surprised how many years an open frame motor will last in a hobby setting.

Now, if this is for a full time knifemaker, with buffer sitting next to grinder that's putting metal dust into the air 8 hrs/day - might need a TEFC motor then. I'd expect a cheapskate like me would drop a cover over an open frame motor and get it to last a long time even then.

Ken H>
 
I have two buffers; a 3/4hp Baldor 3600rpm and a 1/2hp 3450rpm. They are each set up very differently. The baldor runs 6-8" sewn wheels and is fast, powerful, and certainly a bit dangerous. I use it mainly for polishing out bolsters and guards. I would prefer to swap it out for a 1800rpm unit if I could find a deal. I may look into the Jet that Ed mentioned.

My smaller buffer is from Rio Grande (http://www.riogrande.com/Product/MTR1-2HP-DUAL-SHAFT/336241) and I run 4" wheels on it which I change out frequently depending on my needs. The tapered spindles make it very easy to install a knife-edged felt wheel for polishing filework and then switch to a cotton buff for running pink scratchless on ivory. In my opinion, smaller diameter wheels on a fast buffer are safer than larger wheels on a slower buffer.

Bob
 
Bob..... when I read your post I cringed! My very first buffer was a baldor 3600 just like you mentioned. At the time I was stationed in Arkansas, had about a year of knifemaking under my belt, and was VERY green. I was buffing on the machine, it grabbed the blade outta my hands, threw it THROUGH the wall of the shop, and when I found it out in the yard, the blade was in a "U" shape. After I got on a fresh pair of pants, I unplugged that buffer, and did without until I could scrape together the money for a 1800rpm model. I didn't want to give that deathtrap to any of my friends, so I wound up taking it to a second hand store, and traded it for a post vise. :) I totally agree that if you must use one of the "fast" buffers, its far safer to use the smaller wheels!

Just this past winter, Gordon Alcorn was killed in his shop from a buffing accident.... I know we say it all the time, but these machines are truly the most dangerous things most of us have in our shops.
 
EdCaffreyMS said:
I've owned one of those machines, and personally I found it too "weak" for my liking. I think its tailored more towards things like jewlery. I don't do a lot of buffing, normally guards and handles, but it just didn't have enough power. Right now I have two different buffers in the shop.... a Baldor 332B, 3/4hp, 1800rpm, and a Jet JSB-10L. The Jet is my actual "buffing" machine, and the Baldor is setup with a super fine wire wheel on one side, and a scotchbrite wheel on the other.

I personally like the Jet machine because it has much longer shafts, which means better clearance.....I can do much more with it then I can with the shorter shaft, Baldor machine. The Jet is a 1hp, and its in the $270 price range (BONUS!) :)
Click to expand...

I can not locate the Jet unit....looks like they are discontinued however..... the 3/4hp 1750rpm buffer from Grizzly Tools looks to be my huckleberry for $329
 
Buffing a blade us easily the most dangerous step in the shop. I can't stand it. I quit buffing blades altogether. I do handles, pommels, guards and the like....but anyway, I use a 1 horse myself..... But for god sakes be careful! That thing will send you to the hospital in a heartbeat!!!
 
EdCaffreyMS said:
Bob..... when I read your post I cringed! My very first buffer was a baldor 3600 just like you mentioned. At the time I was stationed in Arkansas, had about a year of knifemaking under my belt, and was VERY green. I was buffing on the machine, it grabbed the blade outta my hands, threw it THROUGH the wall of the shop, and when I found it out in the yard, the blade was in a "U" shape. After I got on a fresh pair of pants, I unplugged that buffer, and did without until I could scrape together the money for a 1800rpm model. I didn't want to give that deathtrap to any of my friends, so I wound up taking it to a second hand store, and traded it for a post vise. :) I totally agree that if you must use one of the "fast" buffers, its far safer to use the smaller wheels!

Just this past winter, Gordon Alcorn was killed in his shop from a buffing accident.... I know we say it all the time, but these machines are truly the most dangerous things most of us have in our shops.
Click to expand...

Ed, just curious, I use a baldor 1 hp 3600 and I have understand that they are dangerous. But when I use it I buff off the bottom of the wheel so if it grabs the blade it throws it away not towards me. Do you know people who have been injoured by them were they using them the same way or buffing off the top? Also I almost never buff a knife that has been sharpened.
 
I think it happens when a person is buffing off the bottom..... then a slip happens and forgets or something and allows it to grab. Doesn't have to be sharpened to grab, nor to hurt. That's why I like the 1725 RPM, 1/4 hp - when putting a mirror finish to a blade, or that final "high gloss" to a handle, you're not moving any real material - all it takes is a very light touch.

Now, with that said, if you're polishing a blade with some coarse grit to do some cutting/moving metal, then it does take a hp or so with big heavy buffing wheels to really do some cutting. IF you want to see some metal moved, go to a chrome plating shop - they got some buffers that will move some metal!

That one moment of carelessness is all it takes

Ken H>
 
MT: Buffing accidents can, and do happen no matter what location you're using on the buffing wheel, its just the nature of the beast. I've always tried to buff on the bottom half of the wheel(s), and have had things grabbed and thrown. Luckily for me, the worst that has ever happen to me was getting the end of a hidden tang punched through the leather apron I had on, and going about 1/2" into my upper abs. I had to have a minor surgery to sew up the ab muscle wall, and a couple of staples on the exterior, but otherwise was only sore for a few days.

Personally, I think that loose and soft felt buffs are the worst for "grabbing" things. I also have to believe that if you have a buffer in the shop, and use it, its only a matter of time before you either get the "pudding" scared outta you, or get hurt. We all view things through our own experiences, and based on mine, there will never be another 3600rpm buffer in my shop.

As Ken pointed out, sharpened or not doesn't matter. If there is ANY 90 degree angle, or any sharp corner, those are the potential "grab points" for a buff. I've seen things spin completely around the buffing wheel, and get thrown in directions that you'd never think would be possible. As with any machinery, the second you forget to respect it, thats the instant it will get you.

I totally forgot to share something that I've done.... where its practical, the machines in my shop are operated through a foot switch as the on/off switch.....if something happens, I can step away (or dive away) :) and the machine shuts down. Its certianly not foolproof, but its saved my bacon several times.
 
Ed has a GREAT idea there with a foot switch on a buffer. I might try that myself.

Ken H>
 
for what you are doing, i would suggest getting a small buffing wheel with mandrel that you can mount on a variable speed drill. at a big box hardware store should be about $15 with a stick of compound. it will give blade and handle a nice finish. or get pieces you can mount on any motor http://www.supergrit.com/products/products_metalworking-buffingwheels.asp i buff using the top of the wheel with the wheel rotating away for me. when the wheel grabs the blade, it will launch it away from you. a foot switch would be nice also.
a second option would be a cork or felt belt for your 2x72 or whatever size belt sander you use http://www.supergrit.com/products/products_belts-misc.asp#woolfelt
whichever style you choose, get a good apron, respirator, face shield, and steel toed boots. you dont want the dust polishing makes in your lungs or eyes.
 
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a couple other things to keep in mind on buffers..

Loose buffs are the worst for grabbing stuff. I rarely use one. We normally use a 1/4" sewn wheel and we may cut the first stitch line to give a little more fluff but otherwise that is about all we ever run at the shop.

the bigger the buff wheel the faster the SFPM..a 10" wheel is going to go nearly double the speed a 6" wheel turns. To slow down a fast buffer, go to a smaller wheel.

Also, if a buffer it mounted to a bench with a wall right behind it the flying object can bounce off the bench, to the wall and still have enough momentum to hurt you if it bounces back your way. Plan on something getting grabbed and thrown and set up your work area so it bounces away as harmlessly as possible. Put it on a stand if possible. If you have to use a bench, stack some loose rags under and behind the buffer to absorb any momentum from a tossed object.

if your spindle/mandrel is long enough, stacking a few buff wheels together helps speed things up and lower the tendency to grab things.

Watch how your feet and body are positioned. If you stand with a foot under the buffer, you are going to eventually throw something straight down and into the top of you foot. Been there on that one. Don't snuggle up to a buffer like you do a grinder. Give it a bit of room.

When I hear/see a buffer running here, I always go check on their technique to make sure I can keep the danger reduced.
 
I am well aware of the saftey hazards with buffers and will be mounting my machine on a free standing pedistal. A buffer is no more dangerous than my commercial table saw or radial arm saw. Paying attention and careful execution of use is the best defense. Being tired and distracted will get you hurt faster than anything. I appreciate all the input from you guys :)
 
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another way to polish would be using a dremel or similar tool and the pads that come with them. with a full size buffing pad you may miss a spot or section, use the mini-polisher to take care of them.
 
I thought I would throw this link up just in case anyone is looking for options on buffers. This is a 2-speed unit sold by TP Tools under their brand name. (Buffer Link) Baldor also makes a 2-speed unit but it costs about twice as much; TP Tools sells it as well. I am really thinking about replacing my high speed Baldor with the Grizzly 1hp, 1725rpm unit.
 
steelerfan88 said:
I am well aware of the saftey hazards with buffers and will be mounting my machine on a free standing pedistal. A buffer is no more dangerous than my commercial table saw or radial arm saw. Paying attention and careful execution of use is the best defense. Being tired and distracted will get you hurt faster than anything. I appreciate all the input from you guys :)
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I think both Bossdog & Ed along with any other maker thats worked and been around buffers for over a decade or two that Buffer's seem to have a Gremlin factor! :what!: There really didn't seem to be a reason for it yet the knife was grabbed and launched. More so that any other tool in a shop.

I have an Apron I had made out of a full tanned hide with full chest coverage that hangs down passed my knees to protect the family jewels and the arteries in my legs. I put it on, my Rep-O-rator, eyewear & my finger skins. Its the first thing I do when I enter my shop or start sharpening off of the rig on the tail gate of my truck.

Have fun & stay safe!
 
I had one of those 1/4 hp jobs and gave it away. I just didn't have enough power. Mine is a 1 hp now and there's a big difference.
 
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