At what point should you start?

B

Byron

Guest
A fairly simple question I guess. But at what point should you start making sheaths?

I know I could just get others to make them for me, but I'd rather not go that route.

Should I wait until I have the basics of the knives themselves down to where I can repetively reach sastisfactory results? Or should I start making them right away to go ahead and get practice/experience at them despite my current knives having a large amount of flaws?
 
Personally, I've never made a sheath. I've fitted and finished a few factory-made ones to fit my knives, and frankly that's about enough leather work for me.

For some reason sheath-making just doesn't appeal to me. I have a hard enough time getting things done on projects I enjoy, lol. Not to mention buying more tools and materials.

I certainly understand the reasons for making your own sheaths... some folks won't even consider a knife without one, you can design it exactly the way you want, etc. But at this point there are good factory ones available that I can finish, and a lot of REALLY good custom sheathmakers. For now I prefer to work on my knifemaking skills.

I'm sure someone will opine that you're not a knifemaker unless you make your own sheaths... To those who make both, I salute you! Remember, that's just my opinion and opinions are like belly-buttons... everybody has one.

please please PLEASE let's not have this turn into an argument about "sole-authorship". Down that path lies only madness.
 
I think that all knifemakers should supply a sheath of some kind to carry their knives, unless they are safe queens, whether it be a simple Kydex sheath (very easy to make with minimal cost), a custom made leather sheath, or a modified factory sheath. It's up to you what route you want to go, but hey, if you want to make sheaths for your knives, then you should just start making them so you can learn and develop those skills. Any of the sheathmakers on here will gladly give advice along the way :)

~Noah
 
Things I've done but not well enough to sell:

Make fixed blade knives
Make folding knives
Forge blades

Things I'd like to do:
Leather work- sheath
Make damascus
Make mokume gane
engrave
carve steel, carve handles
Rebuild and get my little giant running
Learn to use a lathe
Learn to use a Mill
Cast silver and gold

I bought the leather at the Eugene show and have the tools to do a simple sheath. I may like it I may not. If I do I will make one for each knife I make so my skills for both improve at the same rate hopefully. If I don't like it I have a list of things to do.

Time seems to be a big factor, you can't learn this stuff overnight.
 
Let me start off by saying I believe all knives "safe queens" or not should have sheaths, even folders :D. How's that for drumming up business for me and my fellow sheathmakers.Truthfully all makers go through this, some find they like leather like myself and others hate it, even others that shouldn't be doing sheaths.Try it, some simple stuff and if you decide you like have at it, otherwise, learn your knives and find a sheathmaker.It's much better to have a sheath made, then put out a nice knife and a crappy sheath.I see it all the time.Most makers learn that good leather help sell knives.Dave:)
 
I'll most defiantly have a go at it then once I can. Once I do, its going be for the 2nd knife I made. It has several fit issues and plain out horrid balance/ proportion, but it has the best cutting ability of any I've made so far.
 
Just for clarification, I have been told not to store knives long term in sheaths because it traps moisture and will make them corrode. Is that correct? If so, how long is too long?
 
Rock, that's generally true to one degree or another. Naturally it varies on the sheath material, blade material and environment.

Long-term storage issues/ideas could be a whole 'nother thread.
 
Rock yes they will but if you oil them they will last a long time provided you dont live along the coast or in a very humid area. Byron yes you should make sheaths right now . I totally agree with Dave all knives need a sheath, and you need to hone your skills just as it takes a long time to learn knife making. I think leather is harder to do cuzz its way easier to make a mess of a sheath really fast. Go buy a double shoulder of 7/8 oz to start to learn how to make sheaths the heavy leather like 9/10 oz is harder to work cut and even stamp at least for me. Ive used mostly 7/8 oz but have 4 oz 6/7 , 7/8 and a double shoulder of 9/10. I have just started doing some inlays and I think Im off to a good start making 6 this past 5 days . There are several excellent sheath makers here that will guide you if you run into trouble. here are my last 2 I finished this afternoon.
HPIM2379.jpg
 
Byron, I think it would be a good idea if you either visit a professional sheath maker or at least spend a few bucks on the phone with one. You will get all the questions you have now answered and probably some good advice and helpful hints on top of that.

A couple of things I believe:

If you start out with crap, the end product will most likely resemble crap

Buy to best grade of leather you can afford ( and this is rarely mail order from Tandy and the likes). Remember the most expensive leather you will ever buy is that piece with the cheapest price. Good quality leather will have a better useable yield and even though it costs more it will be cheaper in the long run.

There are a multitude of tools out there to tempt you. As an experienced craftsman, I regularly use about 25% of the hundreds of tools I own. This is one place where some conversation with a pro will save you a ton of money
For example, edgers are available in numbers 1,2,3,4. You need only number 2. Creasers come in 1,2,3,4,5. You need only number 5.

I am available to help you any time you need it.

Paul
 
Alright thanks. What/where would some of the good sources of the leather be from?
 
Paul Im all ears , I learned alot by my missfortune. I have only Tandy leather to buy from and yes there leather isnt the best by far. In my opinion they do have some good stuff but you have to go into the store and pick through all the crap. I have been given the best service from them for all the defective tools I have bought they just send me another free of charge and take my word the the tool is broken and even let me up grade for the few extra dollars. If I was starting out I would buy 2 sets of lacing nippers and grind the tips down on one set to half of what they are for fast hole punching. Then a star leather marker a adjustable edge grover . Then just some thread and leather lace and a 2 dollar book to have to learn lacing stitches and thread stitches . The saddle stitch is the best in my opinion. You are right about cheap leather paul its hard to work doesnt dye well doesnt even stamp well. Im stuck with Tandys crap but I dont think my sheaths are crap . If I even knew where another leather place was that had excellent leather Ide give them a try. Till then Ill just do the best I can with what ive got.
 
Exactly what I was considering before actually getting started. Might as well be read/watch materials on it anyway since it's going to take some creativity to find a place to store everything.
 
Byron said:
Alright thanks. What/where would some of the good sources of the leather be from?
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Byron, being in Mississippi, presents no problem with shipping, but Hellgap you being in Canada would involve international shipping so that could be a major factor in your case, although it would still probably be worth your time to investigate.

I use and recommend Wickett & Craig Tannery leather web site link below.

http://www.wickett-craig.com/

I have used their leather exclusively for about 4 years and the quality keeps me coming back.

I buy the Utility Saddle Skirting in 8/10 and then have them split it free of charge to 7/8 and a few to 2/3 for linings etc. I buy all four of the colors they have available pre-dyed. The colors are russet, chestnut, brown and black, and I use all four in the two split weights mentioned.
They frequently have special deals called "Overstock Sale" going which makes their pricing very competitive with the chain store suppliers. Right now the colors and weights I use are at $100 per side per the web site information. I generally buy from 4 to 8 sides at a time, but they will honor a one side order just as easily.

I always deal with Glen Proud ext. 222 and he is familiar with what I buy if you want to ask him questions.

Further help at your request.

Paul
 
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Thanks Paul I will look into it but international shipping on a side or double shoulder would be 60 bucks but if I ever go to minot it could be a plan to have it shipped to the minot post office for pick up . Might be a good Idea. I pay 75 dollars for a double shoulder so the price isnt that much more. I got 2 good doubles out of 6 so far when I order over the phone but they now have a tandy beside my step fathers buisness in saskatoon and I go there often so. I might be picking through all the garbage to find one nice one. This is my question and my opinion Is the best leather quite soft and quite plyable already kinda like a nice soft pigs skin or should it be a little firmer. I had great success with the softer leathers even before wetting. Am I right?? I went and looked at the site very impressive leather plant.
 
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HELLGAP said:
Is the best leather quite soft and quite plyable already kinda like a nice soft pigs skin or should it be a little firmer. I had great success with the softer leathers even before wetting. Am I right?? I went and looked at the site very impressive leather plant.
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Considering the leather for knife sheaths primarily, I would disagree with you 180 degrees. The very best leather from my years of experience is the most firm leather you can find (short of what is called sole bends). It is the loose fiber flesh side that makes the softer more pliable dry leather and this is exactly what I DO NOT want. It will stretch out of shape instantly when wet or dampened and even more so when tooling is attempted. It is also near impossible to make it firm up or harden enough to be a safe sheath upon completion. Look for and insist upon very tight fiber flesh side on the leather you buy.

Paul
 
I have the chuck burrows video and he is really good I watched an hour of the first one and will go watch the rest again later tonight . I think its good to watch it every couple months because you tend to forget some small details that really finish off the sheath better. The burrows video is one of the best out there that I know of. kellyw
 
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