Anodizing Titanium ??

The mult-etch is a mystery.
No information on it that I can remember.
I should request an MSDS.
I've always suspected it to be similar to plating etchants.

It will go to bubbling in short order when you put some ti in it, if it's warm.
It will take the color right off in no time if you missed your mark.

I get the brightest colors, and the most consistency with multi-etch, and a bath of cascade detergent and distilled water.
I used TSP for a while, but after Alan Folts turned me on to dish detergent, I never looked back.
I didn't have the best of luck with a Ti cathode either, Stainless seems to work better for me, never have to remove any oxides either.
A ring of SS around the inside of the bath seems to give more consistent results than just a slab, which was what I did, much like Ed, when I used Ti as a cathode.

If you get some multi-etch, you can spend all day practicing on one piece.
It eats the color right off, without grinding.
Try different cathodes, and solutions until you are happy.
Bright green is easy to get in the 93v range with good solution and cathode.
It's an off green mottled with purple at times in a system not set up as well.
 
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Ok, so in the last few minutes, I've had an email, and a PM asking questions.

I'll just answer here, since this is why they are asking.

The solution I use is direct from Alan Folts, I take no credit.
Get a pot simmering on the stove, and start disolving powdered cascade DISHWASHER detergent in it, until no more will dissolve.
You now have a supersaturated detergent solution.
Filter that through a coffee filter until you have about 2 tablespoons, don't skip this part.
The filter pulls surfactants or something out, and makes all the difference.
Use distilled water in your tank and start by adding 1 tablespoon of filtered cascade to your tank.
I have no scientific # to give you.

My tank is about a half gallon with a stainless foil ring around the bottom of it.
Very much like Ed's, but I want my part surrounded by negative energy.
Necessary? I don't know, but I get superior results since I switched.
I also switched electrolytes at the same time, my better results may all be attributed to that.

Start testing your anodizing to see if your electrolyte balance is right.
You can keep adding solution to your tank until you are happy.

Etch fIrst in Multi-Etch to eliminate all surface oxides, then start working your way through the voltages, looking at colors regularly.
Go up to the high voltage green, if you get a bright, shiny green without any other colors slipping in, you are good.
If not, add the second tablespoon.

I suggest, especially to a new anodizer to make a few test pieces, so you can compare.

Mix up some TSP and ano a few, noting the voltage, try Coke, try windex, try the cascade solution all using the same voltages and see what you like best.

I get brighter, more vivid, less pastel colors with the dishwashing detergent than I did with TSP.
Perhaps as Ed mentions there may be a correlation between cathode and solution.
I don't know...

For what it's worth, this batch I am using now, which is only my third batch since I learned the detergent trick (3 shops, 3 batches) is made with those little dissolving packets you use in the dishwasher.
It's what we had.
2 cups of boiling water and 1 packet.
Filtered it, and used about 2 TBSP in my tank.
Same results as before.

I spent weeks trying to get that bright green, and this is what worked.
Everything leading up to it looks good too.

The biggest difference though is the etch.
Your results will be vastly superior, and more consistently so if you etch first.
Hydrofluorics work, but Multi-etch is safer.
 
For you guys using the etchant, how long do you normally etch your ti?
And do you go straight from the etchant into your anodizing tank without cleaning off the etchant that is on the pieces?
Thanks
 
Depends on the temperature of the etchant.
Heated, it goes quick, cold, not as quick.

You will see it react.
If it's virgin metal, and the etch is warm, it only takes a few seconds.
I let it go 5 -10 seconds at a full stream of bubbles coming off the part.
Then I dip in water to rinse, and into the Ano tank.

If the etch is hot, it will strip off even high voltage colors in under 30 seconds.
 
To add, Tom Anderson has an excellent tutorial on anodizing ti in the tutorials section. He is pretty much a ti ninja.
 
best way to amke the Ti "stick " is not to have a polished finish
the more knoks and cranys that the color can sit inthe longet it "seems" to last
the colors you can get with a near mirror finish on the Ti are impressive but in every day use dont last long

also higher voltage builds a thicker layer of oxide right up to the point that you scorch the TI
 
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