Am I fooling myself?

[Gliden07]

My Reeder Grinder with a 3Ph 2HP motor and a KBAC was about $1300.00. Could I done it for less? Sure, single speed motor. Motor would have been less and the KBAC wouldn't have been needed! I probably could have done it for $800 with a motor off a pool pump. Plus this grinder will lay over Horizontally! Basic kit was 600 delivered. Think hes gone up a little since I bought mine.

 

[Mark Barone]

All this is food for thought. I'm not giving up. It's a challenge right now to make something nice with the tools I have but I am still enjoying it. There has never been a time where I messed up and didn't learn from it.

 

[izafireman]

I have re engineered my second below par new 4 x 36 wood sander as we do not have much choice in the UK ,there is not anywhere to see a more professional grinder working within miles.
I do not really see me selling knives, might sell a few so I either struggle with my STILL miss aligned 4x36 or travel the country looking for a 2x 42 with table and motor.
Anyone in the UK reading this with a genuine good grinder for sale can let me know if they wish.

Rare as hens teeth in the UK. My pal sold a 2 x72.... 7 years or more ago, first I have seen second hand. You could get Aly of Downland Engineering a try as he makes grinders in the UK. Trouble is there is so little choice here folk tend to hold onto stuff. I thought about selling my smaller grind when I got my 2 x72 but my pal told me to hang onto it. So far that has been good advice as I still use it for smaller jobs and handle work.

 

[Mark Barone]

It sounds to me that funds are a significant factor, just as it always has been for me. HUGE reason I taught myself to BUILD things! For those that have a bit more $$ or those who do knifemaking for a living, it is often times very easy for them to say just buy this or that...., and of course use the age old phrase, “buy once cry once”! Well, that does hold true for some things, but simply is not an end all! At no point would I have ever been able to spend even $1000 on a grinder! If I had tried to “save” for it, I’d still be saving! Just would never happen is what I mean.

I started my grinding with a Dayton 2x48 grinder, which I got for $300. I quickly turned it into a 2x72 for the price of an aluminum arm and 4” contact wheel. And that was what I used until last year, when I finally built my full scale 2x72 w/vfd. Was also able to still sell the Dayton for $270. Building a 2x72 is like building an AR15....you can build one which will work as well as the most expensive machine sold! And you will spend at times a FRACTION of what the more expensive units sell for. As for a VFD, well I’m a fan of the better known chinesium units sold. I will never spend $400 on a VFD. If you can, go for it! But AS FOR ME, that is money I would rather see in other places.

All that said, I also still have a 1x30 that I converted to 1x42, vertical/horizontal. I’ve always used ceramic belts with it. I’ve never heard of the ceramic 1x30 belts being for wood?? The 1x30 Norton Blaze ceramic belts are IDENTICAL to the 2x48 Blaze belts & 2x72 Blaze belts I have always purchased. In reality, the reason the 1x30 belts are used up so quickly, is because they have approx. 5 times LESS surface area than a 2x72 belt. It’s very simple. Has nothing to do with them being made for wood. Because they aren’t.

And I’ll second what C Craft said. Doesn’t matter how much you spend. You will simply get better as you continue making knives. Same as anything else.

Thanks for the input. I am hoping folks on this forum don't get frustrated with my questions. I read every comment and apply it to my ongoing venture. There were many mistakes I made that hphad nothing to do with tools, burning the tips, holes too close to the edge, bad hand sanding techniques, bad designs and so on. I have overcome those. I have a design for a mini cleaver that I want to make. I want to make a clean plunge line. I don't care if it's 90 degrees, soft curve or whatever. I just want to make them equal on both sides using my 1x 30. I think the 4 x 36 is too big for a small knife.
Im using 3/16 inch steel. I think if I keep the angle fairly steep and not try to make a huge bevel I will have a better chance. I think when the 1x30 belt is making contact with a bevel that is over an 3/4 wide or so, there is too much surface area to cut evenly. Not sure if I explained that correctly. Also should I to ruin the bevel when I keep starting on it, hitting slightly different areas. That also may be me and not the tool.

 

[Mark Barone]

Retroguy, any attitude getting “frustrated” by someone’s question certainly would not be welcome here! This is NOT “members only” blade forums. This is a great bunch of people on this forum that truly want to swap ideas and help others. I would venture anyone of the more seasoned makers here would be more than happy to help another member. I’ve become very good friends with some.

Thanks, that does seem to be the case here. I have a little PTSD from a forum I joined a few years ago when I was restoring an old Vespa. It was a tough crowd.

 

[Drew Riley]

I have no affiliation with this gentleman, and as far as I know, he's fairly new on the grinder market, but if I was looking for the best bang for the buck right now, I'd look into this guy:

https://kadrmaskreations.com/products/srg-15-2x72-belt-grindersander-frame-with-wheels

Seems to be a really nice frame for the money.

Doesn't come with a motor, but if you search around, you could probably find a used 3 phase for less than $100, and run it with a chinese VFD for about another $100 to $130.

 

[springer82]

Thanks, that does seem to be the case here. I have a little PTSD from a forum I joined a few years ago when I was restoring an old Vespa. It was a tough crowd.

Just wondering. Do Vespa owners have there own forum?

 

[Mark Barone]

Yes it's called Modern Vespa but there and there is a sub forum for older models called Not so Modern Vespa.
I had some fun for a few years "restoring" a few. 1974 below.

 

[Nick Riggi]

I totally get it- but the 2x72 will need to wait for me- just isnt an option right now. I have triplets in college and a 15 yr old HS Freshman!

I use a 1x30 and get ok results- I have learned alot from using it and know that when I do get a better grinder that my work will get better.

I use 36 grit ceramics to rough grind and put in the bevel then 60 the refine up to 180. Usually then just use a Scotch brite to satin finish.

It will have to due for now!

 

[Mark Barone]

I totally get it- but the 2x72 will need to wait for me- just isnt an option right now. I have triplets in college and a 15 yr old HS Freshman!

I use a 1x30 and get ok results- I have learned alot from using it and know that when I do get a better grinder that my work will get better.

I use 36 grit ceramics to rough grind and put in the bevel then 60 the refine up to 180. Usually then just use a Scotch brite to satin finish.

It will have to due for now!View attachment 65797

 

[Mark Barone]

Very nice for the tools you have. Wow at 180 that finish looks nice. Do you have a special makers mark etching tool.

 

[Nick Riggi]

I have a stencil thatI got made and I use an adjustable AC/DC power supply - the dark etch is done on AC - 10 v @ 5 amp

 

[Mark Barone]

Very nice work Nick. You see Retroguy? Even with his limited 1/30, Nick Riggi is able to create fine work. Nothing surpasses skill set in this, or any creative work.

Also, the stencil Etching/Marking tool is quite easy to build. I’ve been using the same one I built from a plug in man ac/dc charger years ago. 12v, around 1amp charger I had laying around.

Yup OA . I was excited to see
Nicks work. I’m waiting for a billet to come in so I can try again.

 

[Mark Barone]

Don’t “try” on good steel! Leave that steel your getting be, and find cheap scrap steel to practice with. Best is free scrap steel you have, can find. In light of nothing available pick up the cheapest mild steel you can find. Work on scrap until you feel very ultra comfortable. So when you start working on the good billet of steel you purchase, you don’t TRY....you simply will DO!

Good point . I have some 1 inch bars . I could at least try making some good plunge lines and small bevels. Although I hate ruining my sanding belts also.

 

[Randy Lucius]

This was my first knife that I made for my youngest son a couple of years ago. Seemed like it took forever to make. Don't be in a hurry to complete a knife. Read and watch as many videos as you can. Understand each step in the process and enjoy making a knife. After the first few knives you'll be surprised how much quicker they come together.

 

[Mark Barone]

That's really nice. I will definitely make my son a knife. That's a beauty . I have to take my time. I have some physical limitations that afford me the luxury of going slow. It's nice also just chatting with you folks about a common interest. I work with mostly elementary age children with behavior issues, so I can't even keep a pair of sharp scissors in my office or even talk about knives.

 

[Kevin Zito]

This was my first knife that I made for my youngest son a couple of years ago. Seemed like it took forever to make. Don't be in a hurry to complete a knife. Read and watch as many videos as you can. Understand each step in the process and enjoy making a knife. After the first few knives you'll be surprised how much quicker they come together.

View attachment 65803

It simply can not be said any better! Ps... nice knife!

 

[Chris Railey]

I am a belt miser too. I know I use mine longer than I should but you cannot make omlets without breaking eggs. I have developed a system where I feel I safely use a belt up and come close to getting my money out of it. But I only pay $2.60 a belt for 36 grit zircs. Not the finest belts on the planet but I have made many a knife from them.