Advice needed on Ti Thickness and Micrometer

Hankins

Hankins

Well-Known Member
Finally got my Frame lock design to work :biggrin:
Now need to be a bit more precise and make some stiffer frames.

What is the Difference between a Mechanical Digital Micrometer and an Electronic one in terms of accuracy and longevity?

What thickness of Ti might be best for a smallish Frame lock folder around 3" closed ? (G10 one side Ti on the lock side)
 
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This is a good topic. I've been toying with the idea of playing with some tactical folders and I'm curious about the answers as well.

From what I'm understanding, 0.125" is a good thickness for a small frame lock where as 0.150" would be better for a larger one. Now let's wait for the experts to chime in. Les?
 
I like .100" on smaller frames up to whatever size you want on large frames.

I just made one with a 5" blade and 1/8" frames...
It was a big hit at the Vegas show.

The weak point is going to be the relief cut for the lock anyways, so once you are thick enough to make a rigid knife, everything else is just aesthetics...
 
I will address the micrometer issue. The digital mechanical is rotating wheels like the old odometers in cars, the electronic one is a electronic digital display . The third type is the old classic with the numbers on a rotating barrel. I am an inspector in my full time job. I am in charge of buying tools and keeping them in calibration.
I have used all three types and all three are very accurate,minding you buy a quality tool .It dosen't have to be brand new . There are many on e-bay . You want something with a ratchet lock , carbide faces and in good condition.
The old style , before they came out with the digitals are very accurate .Don't get me wrong , the new style are also very accurate but require more care if you aren't working in the cleanist of enviorements and also require batteries. Most of the time they work , but when the electronic one need repair its usually too costly to repair them because its usually in the electronis or readout screen .
It does take a little practice in getting the correct feel for checking a part,and they read down to the .0001 . They read like our currency . .025 per rev on the barrel .
I would suggest getting one of these . They take alot of abuse . You can recalibrate them and they can be cleaned easily if you get coolant or dirt in them .
If you would like me to send you one for a trial before you buy let me know.
Contact me @ johnzembko@hotmail.com
 
I agree with the others concerning the thickness of Ti....around .100 for smaller frame locks, and in the .125 range for larger model folders. On the calipers/micrometers.... I personally think that the dial type are more accurate, and require less care/maintenance (no electronics or batteries to mess with). BUT...I like the digital variety of caliper/micrometers better for day to day use..provided that they are "GOOD" quality. There reason I say this is that there is no misreading the digital models. I some instances, I have misread the dial caliper or micrometer, and not realized it until I tried to do the final assembly of a folder....only to discover that I had removed too much material somewhere, and had to scrap the whole thing.

If your going to go with digital calipers or micrometers, DO NOT BUY A CHEAP SET! Expect to pay $100+ for a serviceable one, and $200+ for "precision" ones. The calipers that I use "day to day" in the shop is a "fluid proof" Mitutoyo, which runs around $130. This model had three digits past the decimal point. I also own a high end set of Starrett calipers that goes 4 digits past the decimal point....I really baby this set...it's super accurate, and was a tad over $300. I also have two digital micrometers..... one is a Fowler brand, and the other a high precision Starrett....basically the same price ranges and accuracy as the calipers.
Don't waste your time or money buying calipers or micrometers off Ebay, Home Depot, Lowe's, or similar.... all it will get you is grief. Get into the MSC website, McMaster-Carr, or someplace that see higher quality.
 
I use alot of .160 Ti for frame locks. Bigger knives get .187 - .200

I have done a few of the flater ones with .100 and have plans for more. I like the thicker stuff but I contour the heck out of it. A lot of times I grind as much on the handles as on the blades.

Brian is right though, no mater how thick you frame is, there is one weakest part.
 
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