Advice for folder

Thanks Don, I appreciate the input. Coachcampana thanks for the insight. My income is very limited and so I often forge ahead without the reading material. I have been building and making things all my life. My father was like that and I learned from him.

I guess I was just looking for the short version of the "how to" when it comes to using a rise and fall gauge to figure out the tang so to speak of a blade on a slippe! So guess I will let this one ride for now!!!
 
Ccraft, I'm not sure I follow. The way I described saves you the money of buying the gauge. Unless you already own one.
 
coachcampana said:
I'm starting my first slip as well using Chris's video. I'll just go the scribe line method he discusses and skip the daily meter device this time. His video is awesome.
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You know coach I read this and I don't think it ever registered about what you are saying! I have a lot on my mind lately, just found out some bad news about a family member and trying to process that and deal with it has my mind somewhere else!
Thanks for the advice.

I still would like to understand about the Ruple Guage system and how it exactly works.

I assume, defined as, ASS~U~Me (makes an ass out of u and me both) at least that is how they defined it in Uncle Sams Army!

How ever I would assume you look for the lowest point of measurement and the rest is ground away to match that point!

How do you know that the measurement at that least point is going to work??

The reason I say that is I remember as a kid getting a hold of a cheap slip joint knife and after being open and closed a few times it got to the point where the blade would not stay in place in the closed position. Or in other words the spring was not applying enough pressure at that point to hold the blade in the closed postion!

So that brings me back to the excert from Steve's PDF on line, where he talks about the use of the Ruple Guage!
Quote:
The tang is ground to set the rise of the spring in all three positions of the blade;open, half-stop and closed.

So now that the statement above intrigues my brain, I want to know the why and how of doing the process. Where to begin and how to know I am finished with the process. I realize that this is important and yet I have to know more! That is the way I am hard wired I guess!

It's not enough for me to know it has to be done that way, I want to know why and what happens if you don't, etc, etc.! :biggrin:
Or as my wife describes it, you just want to drive your self crazy!!!:what!: Can't help like I said I am hard wired that way!:drool:
 
C Craft said:
You know coach I read this and I don't think it ever registered about what you are saying! I have a lot on my mind lately, just found out some bad news about a family member and trying to process that and deal with it has my mind somewhere else!
Thanks for the advice.

I still would like to understand about the Ruple Guage system and how it exactly works.

I assume, defined as, ASS~U~Me (makes an ass out of u and me both) at least that is how they defined it in Uncle Sams Army!

How ever I would assume you look for the lowest point of measurement and the rest is ground away to match that point!

How do you know that the measurement at that least point is going to work??

The reason I say that is I remember as a kid getting a hold of a cheap slip joint knife and after being open and closed a few times it got to the point where the blade would not stay in place in the closed position. Or in other words the spring was not applying enough pressure at that point to hold the blade in the closed postion!

So that brings me back to the excert from Steve's PDF on line, where he talks about the use of the Ruple Guage!
Quote:
The tang is ground to set the rise of the spring in all three positions of the blade;open, half-stop and closed.

So now that the statement above intrigues my brain, I want to know the why and how of doing the process. Where to begin and how to know I am finished with the process. I realize that this is important and yet I have to know more! That is the way I am hard wired I guess!

It's not enough for me to know it has to be done that way, I want to know why and what happens if you don't, etc, etc.!
Or as my wife describes it, you just want to drive your self crazy!!!:what!: Can't help like I said I am hard wired that way!:drool:
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You answered your own question! "Cheap slip joint knife."
 
I think you're right on the money, C Craft, on your assumptions about the Ruple gauge. The reason for having the same height reading on the gauge at each stop is so that the spring returns to flush with respect to the liners and scales at each stop and the spring force is the same at each stop as well. By starting with the lowest of the tree readings and grinding down the tang at the other two to match, you will zero out the back of the spring at each stop. It keeps everything looking aesthetically pleasing and walking and talking like a good slip joint should.
 
Thank you, to all of you for answering my question on the "Ruple guage". I figured that kind of was how it worked but I just hate to assume things! In the past I have assumed things that came back to bite me!!! :biggrin:

With this bit of knowledge I can proceed and know if it don't work,...............its on my back!
 
C Craft
Thanks for working on this and getting an answer! It was a question I had as well I was just not in NEED of an answer yet but the day is coming. Ed
 
If you really want an answer to this question, you need to form your own thread. This thread is probably about to die out and its about a tottaly different subject so folks won't be coming here to answer questions about a forge.

When you start your own thread you need to give some more information as there are several types of forges. Once you get past the gas, or coal issues, you need to let folks know your own experience when it comes to being able to fabricate for yourself. The purpose you intend to use the forge for and what kind of money you are willing to spend.

You see I don't mind you adding to my thread but if you really want answers you need your own thread entitled something to do with forges and too get good answers you are going to have to give more info! Good luck!
 
C Craft said:
If you really want an answer to this question, you need to form your own thread. This thread is probably about to die out and its about a tottaly different subject so folks won't be coming here to answer questions about a forge.

When you start your own thread you need to give some more information as there are several types of forges. Once you get past the gas, or coal issues, you need to let folks know your own experience when it comes to being able to fabricate for yourself. The purpose you intend to use the forge for and what kind of money you are willing to spend.

You see I don't mind you adding to my thread but if you really want answers you need your own thread entitled something to do with forges and too get good answers you are going to have to give more info! Good luck!
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Ha! I agree, thread jack!
 
Coach wasn't really worried about a thread jack but he had two things against him. This thread is getting old, although it seems to be getting better responses the older it gets! :52: But if he truly wants responses he needs to start his own thread, supply some info and ask more complete questions! Folks around here don't mind answering questions but sometimes you got to ask the question in a way that makes more sense!! I truly was trying to be helpful with that advice! :les:


Grussing_Custom_Knives said:
It's possible to do it without the machine but its kinda a pain in the ass


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Care to elaborate?? I have done a lot of things over the years that were a PITA but, I learned a lot from doing such a thing that way. Sometimes it was, "I will never do that again"!! :biggrin:
 
Well, well, well, ask and you shall receive! I was goggling slip-joint spring as I was trying to figure out the spring for a slip joint folder I am attempting to build. I stumbled across this, Slip-Joint Folder Designing By: Steve Culver, PDF.

It seems to discuss the how to on alot that has been kicked around in this thread. At least I know know there is actually a formula for figuring out the pivot point on a folder. :les:

That sure beats the trial and error method I have attempted in the past!! I have found the trial and error method means you can be close but, a miss can be as near as a mile when it comes to getting the pivot right!:what!:

There is also a lot info included with in the PDF.

http://www.culverart.com/Slip-Joint Folder Designing.pdf

So here it is I hope it can help someone else who might be struggling to understand and get this figured out!!
 
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