A few pictures and brief tutorial of wiring a VFD to make a disc grinder

BossDog

KnifeDogs.com & USAknifemaker.com Owner
Staff member
I needed a disc grinder at the warehouse and I didn't want to take mine from my home shop. I had on old VFD I bought on ebay sitting on a shelf for a couple years I bought at a good price and a motor I've had for quite awhile designated for a disc grinder.

Naturally, there was no manual for the VFD. The plate said 230V 3 phase IN/230v 3 phase OUT. What this means is it requires a 3 phase input, which of course I don't have and no one else does either -- unless -- you are in an industrial type set up and you have 3 phase (lucky dog). I've been down this road before. It has been my experience on these VFD's that even if it says 3 phase input required, it will work just fine on 1 phase input. I've wired up 3 of these this way and they all worked. All three were different brands. All three said 3 phase input required. All three worked with 1 phase input. That is why you can often get these pretty cheap on ebay -- no one has 3 phase so they get passed over for the VFD that is documented to say 1/3 phase input - which means it can take 1 or 3 phase input. If you buy a 3 phase and it doesn't work on 1 phase, don't blame me. I just know it worked 3 for 3 for me. You take your own risk here. I'd bet ten bucks this will also work with 110v 1 phase input.

This VFD (variable frequency drive) is a Delta S1 rated for up to 2hp. These speed controllers are technically called drives, not controllers but who cares right? Typically, the higher the horsepower your drive is rated for, the more it will cost. You can get a higher rated VFD, but you should avoid a lower HP rated drive for the motor you are going to run. In other words, a 2hp rated VFD will work on my 1/2hp motor but the other way around, using a 1/2hp rated VFD on a 2hp motor will probably burn it out in short order -- if it will even run.
vfd.jpg
This controller does NOT have a NEMA 4 enclosure. I will have to use compressed air to blow out the metal dust frequently to avoid shorting it out. I've lost two of these to metal dust shorting them out and I was blowing them out often. When you blow the dust out, a certain amount of metal dust fuses to circuits and eventually shorts out the unit. They aren't worth repairing so you are just out. A NEMA 4 enclosure adds about a $75 to $150 to the cost of a VFD and keeps out dust and water. It is worth the price. I won't buy another controller with out it (unless it is stupidly cheap).

vfd-panels.jpg

This one is typical of the others. Somewhere on the bottom or back you will find several terminals. This unit did not have a manual so I had to go online and find a manual that was close to this model. The manuals online didn't match so I had to take a guess. You can see what I guessed at (it worked so I guessed right).
Generally, these all have a ground terminal, 3 input and 3 output terminals. Some have additional terminals like this one for a brake resister and external controller of some type. A brake resister is for slowing down a machine quickly when it is turned off. This is important in an larger shop when a tool is turned off and the operator steps away before the machine idles down to a complete stop. If someone else comes along with the machine still spinning, it can be dangerous. A brake resister (almost always an optional add on for additional cost) slows the machine to a dead stop with in 2 seconds. I never use them but you might want to.
Most of these VFD will have several other terminals for remote control operation, sensors and adjustments to various potentiometers to adjust the operation to a specific need. An example would be a motor that needs to be spun up a certain rate. You can program it for that. There are hundreds of combinations of settings on these things. It makes for horrible reading. I have learned to not read any of it. I just run them out of the box. You might want to read your entire manual at least once. Anyway, there is no manual for this one so that makes it a lot easier. Seriously.
 
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Here, I am using some terminal connectors. I often just wrap the wire around the terminal and hope it doesn't short out but I had these so I used them. I am going to use them from now on. It just makes for a nicer, easier way to connect the wires to the terminal bar. Strip back the wire just enough so it doesn't stick out of the plastic and then squeeze it all together.

Our Hand Model today is Dustin, our production guy that works at the warehouse. I am teaching him how to wire a motor to a VFD.
using-terminal-spades.jpg

Here we are wiring a 230v plug onto an extension cord I cut the end off. This VFD does require a 230v input so I had to change the plug to a NEMA L6 30 amp plug. It's pretty simple to wire a 230volt plug. It's the same as wiring a 120v. Two leads and a ground. Ground is always green.
wiring-l6-30-amp-plug.jpg
 
This is a typical motor plate. They all them you just have to learn how to decipher them a bit.
They will all have voltages, direction (most motors will run either direction), amps, phases and lot of other stuff.
We are building a disc grinder and 1/2hp is plenty big enough. Disc grinders can be made with 1/3hp and still work well. Anything bigger than 3/4hp is a waste of money. You can not stop a 3/4disc grinder. This isn't like a belt grinder when you have a lot more mass to move.
motor-plate.jpg



Wiring a motor is really easy once you have broken the code.
All motors will have a wiring plate. If they don't, don't buy it.
This one is typical but they all tend to be a bit different. On most motors there is a small box with a bunch of wires inside. Using the wiring diagram, you connect the wires together in certain combinations to spin one direction or the other and for one voltage or another.
Most motors will handle 2 voltages. Most motors will spin either direction. Most motors will have 8 or 9 wires inside this little box.
You have to look at the wiring plate and connect the wires according to the voltage you are using. Spin direction is not documented. You have to wire it up and hope it is spinning the direction you want other wise you have to usually reverse a couple wires.
motor-wire.jpg

It is very common to have to wire two or three wires together. Here I have #6, 5,4 wires together. They aren't connected to anything other than themselves. Since this motor is a 230/460 volt motor I am using the low voltage diagram. Your motor may be a 120/240v (or similar) so you would use the low voltage diagram for wiring to a 110v power source.
This motor is a 3 phase motor (3phase is coming from the VFD) so I have 3 legs plus a ground wire. Here you can see I have 3 sets of wires twisted together for the power leads to be connected. Use small wire connectors. I have used tape before and it's not been good. These boxes are small so use small wire connectors. You have to jam all that back in the box. There is no ground wire. It is usually just a green colored screw in the frame in the box.

In this picture you can see the ground terminal. I added a small "jumper" wire and will use a wire nut connector to the ground wire in the power supply cable.

ready-to-wire-motor.jpg

Most motors have knock out holes. You punch out a little round plate and run the power into this box via the hole. Note the cord clamp. I see a lot of home motors wired up with out these. They might cost a buck. These screw onto (into?) the hole and hole the power cord in place. These are worth the little extra money. A non-secured power cord can pull out of the box or cause a short.

here Dustin is wiring up the motor.
dustin-wiring-motor.jpg
 
Here we have it all wired up and ready to put the cover back on. There is a lot of wires and wire nut connectors to go back into a small area but you just mash it all back in being careful not to disconnect anything. You will see I have the ground connected. That is always the first thing you wire and the last thing you check.
motor-all-wired - Copy.jpg


Here we are test running it to see if we could get any smoke out of it or not. Note the F60 on the VFD is indicating 60 cycles per second - which is top speed for this model VFD. Some will "overdrive" and go double or more than 60 cycles. This is a fairly limited VFD and I would not buy another one of this model. It does not have a reverse included. You can buy an optional reverse but I won't be doing that. It does not use the potentiometer (knob) for speed control, it uses the membrane up and down arrows to slowly move up and down the speeds. This would be unacceptable for me on a belt grinder but I can live with it on a disc grinder. These were both just sitting around unused so I used them and just accept the limitations of this particular VFD. It's a good controller and good brand. I just don't have the optional items that make full use of the functions.
wired-and-running - Copy.jpg

The whole set up test ran just fine. The motor is actually running full speed in this picture. We put a Beaumont 9" beveled disc on and ran it again and we are satisfied. Dustin will be making a base for this and place it on a tool stand for the warehouse to use when we need it.
 
It has been my experience on these VFD's that even if it says 3 phase input required, it will work just fine on 1 phase input. I've wired up 3 of these this way and they all worked. All three were different brands. All three said 3 phase input required. All three worked with 1 phase input.

Boss
Just for my own clarification, you are using 110v input and 3 phase output? Also, further down you wired in for 220v, is that because this particular unit wouldnt work with 110v?
I am looking to switch to VFD right now, I can run a 220 circuit to my building but it would be easier to just use 110v.
I am running a 1.5 Hp Leeson right now, could I use that motor?
Thanks

Sean
 
It is 220v 1phase going in. There are VFDs out there that are documented to show they will take 110v 1phase in and spit out 3phase. This is not one of them. I believe it would work. I think most of them will but I sure could be wrong.

Possible BS alert here: from what voodoo I recall from several years ago when I was researching these, a 110v conversion is a bit hard on the electronics inside the VFD so it is suggested to use one that is over rated for the motor you are going to run. Ie if you are converting 110v for a .1.5hp motor, you will want at least a 2hp and preferably 3hp rated VFD.

We need mike Kanter to step in, he sells these things for a living...


Boss
Just for my own clarification, you are using 110v input and 3 phase output? Also, further down you wired in for 220v, is that because this particular unit wouldnt work with 110v?
I am looking to switch to VFD right now, I can run a 220 circuit to my building but it would be easier to just use 110v.
I am running a 1.5 Hp Leeson right now, could I use that motor?
Thanks

Sean
 
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