11 second question

J

Jerry Bond

Well-Known Member
McM. Carr-11 sec oil is said to quench in a average of that time. BUT what thickness is that based on?
If it is based on 1/2 thickness then shouldn't 1/8" steel quench faster?
I am looking to quench 1075-80 & 1084.And want that to be my primery steel,backed up with 0-1.
The price of Parks #50 just cuts across my grain.
OK fellows, see if you can educate a dumb a$$ :confused:
Jerry


How do you like that Murph?
 
All the 10xx series steels need the fast quench because they are a shallow hardening steel. I wouldn't worry about the thickness or what it's based on, But as a rule the thinner it is the faster it will cool in the oil because of less mass to hold the heat and the whole heat transference thing.
You should get a decent result with McMasters quench.
Kinda wish I had a gallon to test it against parks to see how well it worked.
 
OH that 11 second question. I was thinking if it hits the 11 floor second rule.:D:haha: Thanks for clearing that up for me.
 
Jerry,
Don't hate me because I use Parks, But from my experience using parks AAA, the oil is designed to cool the steel at a specfic rate regardless of the thickness of the steel.(within reason, ie. over 3" thick does not apply)
I have verified this for myself using the parks oils, and I imagine the folks at houghton do the same with their oils, though I don't know for sure.
This is one of the major differences between quench oils and other liquids; they will cool the steel at a predictable rate, every time.
 
Last edited:
Del, you and Rusty both say parks. I just didn't want to wait a month
before I could get started.
Suppose, I'll just use SS and 0-1 until then.
I made some brine the other day and tried it. Got 5 cracks in one blade, Won't try that again.But I do want the best H T possable.
Thanks for the input, Jerry
 
Jerry
Please don't get me wrong, I am not necessarily recommending parks oil, its just that that companies oil is what I have the most experience with. I would definately recommend quenching oil from a reputable company over any other liquid, given the Parks company is a pain to deal with, when I buy more oil it might just be from houghton.
 
I have been using McMaster 11 second for both 1080 and 1095 with excellent results.

Milt
 
Thanks Milt, got 6-8 pcs of 1095 laying around the shop, said I would never use it again after 8 busted or wavey blades, but maybe I'm tooo hardheaded.
Never really believed too much in TRUE quench oil before but have
changed my mind.
Perks is a pain but have some Mc-carr 11 on the way, will try that for a while, if it works out ,then fine if not I will get parks from Patrick B

thanks everyone for the input, I'll try not to be so hardheaded.
Jerry
 
Jerry-
The quench oil I had been using was a mystery oil. It came with the equipment. It worked well on 1080, but not for 1095. After much research I went with the McMaster Carr 11 sec. Parks was just too difficult to obtain, and rather expensive. Shipping was only $15 for a 5 ga. pail, and I got it in 2 days. So far, so good. I have made about 30 knives from 1095 and never had any crack, and only 1 warp- that was 1/8" stock. I was able to straighten it easily.
I like 1080 better than 1095, but I'll use both. I have also started using 440C, but I plate quench that. When I get the means to temper some of the other SS, I will try them. I think you will be happy with the 11 sec. oil. Good luck.

Still learning,

Milt
 
I tried the MC Master with 1095 and it did not harden properly, I also tried water and had cracks, I just did some folder blades and springs with a 7% brine solution and they turned out perfect. I am finally out of 1095 and will not be buying any more until my brain dies.
 
Jerry I have been using the MC Masters 11 for several month and very happy. I use mostly 5160,1075 and 52100 have hand no problems and my test blades have done quiet well. I was told that it might be borderline with 1095 I haven't tried it like some of the others that's not my first choice of steel...Steve
 
Been making knives now for about 11 yrs always used 0-1 & ats34
On the 0-1 I quenched with canola or olive oil. Always had real good luck and produced a fine blade.
Wanted to try something that would show a hamon line, so I got 60'
of 1075-1080 & 60' of 1084 all 1/8" thick and and neither gets fully hard or shows a hamon with the oil that I have.
But the 11 sec oil will be here this wk.
Now if that don't work, I will bite the bullet and get Parks 50.
There should be an alternative Those people don't want the little mans business
Jerry
 
I have done some clay quenched knives and got a great hamon line with this oil I used 1075/1085. I agree they make it hard to get so they can charge more for there product l...steve
 
Have used McMaster Carr 11sec for several years with good result on both 1080 & 1095. No cracks or bent blades using 3/16" stock
 
I have always wondered about the 11 sec oil and 1095, I think the nose on 1095 is about 2 seconds (someone correct me if Im wrong) so is the 11 sec fast enough? I dont know. I know alot of guys have good luck with it. That is why I all but stopped using 1095, because I couldnt find Parks and just couldnt trust my heat treat. (I have been using mineral oil for 1084). Just my thoughts.

Sean
 
I have been Heat treating for myself & other makers using peanut oil for over 14 years,(see my website) & in '02 I added a schoach of Hog lard for quenching gifting blades going to my "chiren" in Iraqi-ganistan. The peanut oil is a little faster than Parks, but still SLower than Brine, so no cracked blades. I use an triple interupted quench, followed by a triple temper. I changed to the peanut oil for health reasons, burnt crude oil products give off carcinogens & in heat treaing the amount of blades I do each year, it's safer. It's readily available from all your friends from there turkey friers or new 5 gal. bottles can be had for your cash money at placeses like Academy. Hope this helps. Bearclaw
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top