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I had a friend who did inlays for his escutcheon plates and his trick to mark the surface of your handle was to "blacken" the back of your cross with a dirty flame much like the top of a zippo flame where the smoke is black. This will coat the surface of your cross. Then you place it in the...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GWhmfMhCw40&feature=related This guy short cuts the process a little for me but perhaps gets the idea across. I don't believe in the guard just sliding on... that means that there will be a visible gap around the riccaso hence my preference is to file slowly...

the first thing I'd do (after getting some free 1/4 inch mild steel) is replace that 6 inch wheel. the minimum hollow ground wheel I'd use for any medium to large knife is an 8 inch wheel and if the blade is on the larger side, then a 10 inch wheel. After 30 years and I'm cheap, I've learned...

Pedro, Congrats on being persistent!! Keep it up. There are many ways to make a guard. YouTube has a few for you to watch too. For me, on a narrow tang knife, I cut my guard from a 1/4 inch x 3/4 piece of nickel silver (my favorite material, although brass is easier to work with). Lay out the...

I didn't notice a forum area for shop tips so "shop talk" seemed best. I was laying out 3 knives tonight using my favorite method and thought about you guys... uh oh. Draw your design on paper cut to within 1/4 inch or so of the profile, spray the back with 3m multipurpose spray adhesive...

Obenaufs-Heavy-Duty-Leather-Preservative at Cabelas (online or in the store) is a great leather treatment. I've used this product on my cowboy boots, custom knife sheaths, gun holster etc. It's an excellent product that was originally designed for firefighters. I swear by it. I'm not a big fan...

Pat, welcome. I'm new to this forum too albeit not new to knife making (1977). I did make a flint knife (miniature about 1 1/2 inches overall) many years ago. What fun. Try it out if you haven't already. I used chert, antler tip and synthetic sinew (oh, and don't forget the super glue ;). I...

Rob, Since you have started your first knife, you are no longer a wanna be. You are a knife maker. A newbie yes, but no longer a wanna be. In perspective, there were lots of Soldiers who "wanted" to jump out of airplanes. Those who did (even if only once) are not considered a wanna be. Congrats...

Jejunum I'm not technically challenged but I am new to this forum. So, this is an attempt to upload a photo. This knife is "Jejunum." The name is my attempt at humor. For all of you who are savy with human anatomy, you'll get it. For those of you who aren't, the Jejunum is a part of the...

Any advice on checking the calibration / accuracy of my oven. I have an Even Heat. My wifes pottery kiln wasn't getting to proper temperature (she knew because her witness cones weren't drooping properly and her glazes weren't coming out). We swapped out the thermocouple and all is well. How do...

I've been heat treating D2, 154 CM and 440C for several years and am satisfied with my process (although I just started Cryo treating them with dry ice and K1 kerosene). I am getting back into using 01. My plan is to add a little paper towel in the SS foil, seal it and heat in my Even Heat...

Yea, that's why we always have an alternate plan and if it's really important: PACE... Primary, Alternate, Contingent and Emergency... but then if you are the EOC, all your plans better be PACE :)

Nope, haven't had a bad day in the shop in 2 1/2 years... course, that's the day I retired and now if the stuff hits the fan, I sit in my personally made adirondack chair and smoke a great cigar, watch the clock tick... then clean up what ever mess I made (that you are describing). ;) Just...

Once again, clearly I'm out of the loop for a few years (OK several years)... what is G10. I can tell from the threads that it must be a micarta type material... what's the difference?

One of Murphy's laws: No good plan survives first contact. Oh, and Murphy was an optimist. That being said, stick to your design plans but at each step evaluate the function and then the form. "Form follows function." It should feel, good. It should cut good and then it should look good. Then...

I've never used a jig but I do have a half inch round post that butts up near the face of my knife sander. This allows me to orient the blade and since it's round, I can raise and lower the handle for my curves. I've tried free handing and on specialty grinds I can do it. But this post really...

Thanks for the information. That is what I was looking for. I just posted a tutorial on cryo treatment so maybe I'll buy a bar and give it a shot. Thanks again.

Any suggestions on purchasing a hardness tester. I don't mind checking the hardness with my file but would prefer to be able to confirm my heat treat process once in a while. I'm sure I could take a blade or two to a machine shop. Maybe save some dough for more steel and belts ;)

For this tutorial, I don't have any photos, but then they would be rather anticlimactic any way. I recently read: Heat Treatment, Selection, and Application of Tool Steels [Paperback] by Bill Bryson (Author). This is an excellent easy to understand and follow source. In it MR Bryson describes...

While I'm not new to knife making (1977) I have been away from it for about 4-5 years... and now, in searching for my favorite SS (154 CM) I find CPM 154. I understand that the CPM is a powdered metal. Since I heat treat my own blades and am satisfied with my process, I wonder if the CPM is a...