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My best advice would be to spend more time at the grinder. I will finish grind most of my knives down to at least 600, sometimes 1000 grit. Before switching grits make certain all the previous scratches are gone. Sometimes I’ll color the blade with a sharpie. Dee scratches show up right away...

I think I’m going to try a frame handle. I need some help in a few things. how thick should the blade and frame be? For aesthetics I want them to be be equal, but I also need room inside the frame to get a bolt inside for tightening things up. Right? Also any tips ahead of time would be...

Just print a random list of the names. The name on top sends to the number 2, the number 2 sends to 3 and so on. The bottom sends to the top. If someone new pops in they go on the bottom.

Rest easy, the gun was returned to its former glory, and is back in service.

Thank you, and yes I agree sets are rough. This one had some fun aspects.

Thank you. I love ironwood, I just don’t have the source for it like I do for the walnut.

Thank you. It’s actually Turkish Walnut, not that it makes any difference. It actually came from the original stock (broken) of a 40’s Purdey SxS 12 gauge.

First off let me say, I’m not a huge fan of “sets”. Inevitably something goes wrong, and you can’t match them up, so you start over. I especially don’t like bit when it’s a mismatched size set. Like one bigger, one smaller. That said I think this pair turned out nice. 440C as per request, and...

I’m in. I’m always up for trying something new. The part I love about the KITH, is the learning aspect. It makes you stretch your boundaries a bit.

I’ve recently heat treated some AEB-L, using a tried am true method I’ve used dozens if not hundreds of times. I was treating a fillet knife that I had ground fairly thin. When I was finished with the plate quench the blade was still dead soft. Could the relative thickness be the reason?

Invest in yourself, by taking the time to understand and comprehend what it is your doing. What I mean by that is if you make a mistake, STOP, and figure out what it was that caused it. In the instance of the mosaic pin, if you where in a hurry because your using 5 minute epoxy, switch to 24...

Anyone stabilize antler? I’ve done some wood with good success, but never antler. Any tips and tricks you’d share? Thanks in advance.

I hear ya. Normally I’m all about new tools, this time it just seems a tad frivolous. That said, I think I’ll buy a new wood cutting bandsaw.

Porta-band style.

Does anyone here know of a readily available and/or source for a wood cutting style blade for a portable bandsaw? I kinda have a one off project, that I really should use wood blades for. That said I could always go buy a wood cutting type bandsaw, but you know, if you don’t HAVE to... thanks

AEB-L stainless for the blade and some stabilized burl that I had.

Up until now I hadn’t done a sharp finger blade, but I figured it was about time. I still haven’t decided if it’s a style I like to use, but in the interest of growing as a blade maker, I made one. Let me know what you think.

I do that same thing except with a reamer. Usually I’ll just chuck it up in a drill, but sometimes if I need to I’ll use a tap handle and run it down through by hand. The reamer leaves a smooth finish and you can get them in literally every size. I use one that .0005 over and it works great.

That’s a nice one. He should be proud to carry it.

I get all mine locally from a guy that makes antler souvenirs. With Elk I try my best to get brow tunes, or G2’s. They seem to have the least pith. If I get a piece with a lot of pith I’ll stabilize it. If there isn’t much I coat the open ends with extra thin super glue. To do full tang knives...