Search results

Buying the whole block or burl is certainly better in the long run. Especially if you make a good many knives with wood handles. Just need a band saw or really sharp blade in the table saw to process it all up into scales. Be careful when buying burls as they often have voids in them. Cutting...

Very nice, I'm working on a full titanium fame lock right now. I'm thinking of a golf ball (ball mill) finish on the exterior for a little grip.

These pictures show the ribbon burner sitting in it's location in the forge tube. It isn't all the way seated, I cast the opening 1/8" tight so it could be fitted tightly. This shows the angle of the burner in respect to the tube. It should fire directly into the curvature of the tube for a more...

Here are a few more pictures from today. The castable was allowed to set for 24 hours. I removed the forms on it today to allow it to air cure fully for a couple more days. It turned out perfectly! I do need to go in and dress the interior a little there are some small imperfections that I want...

Last but not least. It will need to sit and cure for a few days before I can move it, so I added a little high temp black paint to clean it up some.

We were just discussing this the other day.... A firebrick in the bottom that fits tightly, then seal the edges with mortar. When it gets scuzzy you would be able to pop it out and add a new one. Mortaring the brick in would be important I think to stop the fluid melted flux from getting under...

Here are some other things. On the second ribbon burner I used bendy straws. I angled the straws slightly towards one side of the burner. Just an experiment. As I finished this today I wondered why this couldn't be poured as a monolithic piece. Forge and burner in one unit. The burner head and...

Ok, updates. The ribbon burner was allowed to set for 24 hours and removed from the mold. Looks great. Straws were easily removed for perfectly round ports. Very easy to do and I feel like the crayons may be twice as hard. I will be allowing it to cure for a day or two on the counter top and...

And again, I humbly ask...what does any of this have to do with the topic of this thread? You guys don't like ED, I get it. Not my problem or concern.

So instead of posting your thoughts on a thread with that information on it, you decide to post what appears to be a juvenile attempt at some sort of redemption? On a thread where your mention was not to your liking, referencing a post from two years ago? I am the OP of this thread, I feel like...

What I want to know is why is this post on a thread asking for a review of a grinder? This seems like a personal challenge that has zero business on this thread. Staff member or not, right is right and bullshit is bullshit....as you say.

While those ribbon burners cure, I'm moving on to the forge. I decided the interior is going to be a "D" so essentially round with a flat bottom. I trimmed a cardboard sono tube for a 4.5" flat surface on the bottom. This is the average size of hard fire brick that I can lay on the bottom to...

So I have been planning this for a while and thought I might offer up some pictures and thoughts on what I did and why. This ribbon burner is based on all the others that are online. It's 12 X 3" with 3" of castable. So the first things first. I built one exactly as I have seen others built, no...

I'm about to start building my new larger forge. The inside diameter will be 8" diameter and about 24" long. I'm wondering how long the burner would need to be. Also wondering wether 3" or 2" square tubing for the burner body. Last thing is this, on all the designs I have seen, they remove a...

All this for a simple request for an actual review on the machine or kit.....

I can yes, it is knee length as it is but I can make it any length needed.

Figured I would post up a picture of the one I make and revive an old thread. You can stand in the spark stream all you want with this one.

First knife I have forged in about ten years. Larger buffalo skinner design in 52100 from a billet I drew out at a friends house.Never mind the finish, I just knocked the scale off with the grinder.

With that type of sheath it would be super simple to line it with a thin suede leather. Bond it after tooling and before molding into the final shape. For me it adds a very nice finished look and it protects the blade. Sheep skin skiver is another option as it is veg tanned most times and will...

Leather work is all about problem solving. Adding accent pieces to cover or use certain pieces of hardware, lining or layering to keep metal away from steel is the most effective way to do it but sometimes it doesn't fit the intended design. That's when a backing piece comes in handy. Another...