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I use 3/32" 416ss pins. I use a combination of cobalt bits and carbide bits, depending on how hard it is to drill the tang. I drill a small pilot hole, then drill with the 3/32 bit. I use a #40 carbide bit for the tang. It gives just a slight oversize for the pin. I also dome my pins as the...

I agree. It's all relative. I think that my last side was a class C, and there are some areas that have little spots. I can avoid those areas for the main pieces of leather. I use them for the weld piece. Even at that, the quality of the leather is excellent. However, for the $150ish that...

Take a look at Wicketts & Craig for orders also. I bought a side of leather from them on special and it was really good quality and fairly economical.

I have really limited experience with different anvils. During the Intro to Bladesmithing class I took, I used a few different older anvils. I think it compares really well with them. Kanca is primarily a producer of automotive components, so their forging should be good quality.

I have a Kanca 110lb and it has been really good. When I was shopping around, it appeared to be the best bang for the buck anvil I saw. I'm sure that some of the higher end anvils may be better, but I don't have any experience with them. They are also significantly more expensive. Maybe one...

I had one of the aluminum ones with the carbide face. I over-tightened it, and it bent. Out $75. I then spent $150 for a steel one with a carbide face from Bruce Bump, and haven't looked back. I can't recommend it more. Money well spent, and worth every cent.

I will second on the downward pressure. I ruined a knife when I was putting a lot of downward pressure, and little did I know that my file guide was slipping. Filed away a full quarter inch of material before I realized what had happened.

That looks really good, especially for your first one. One day I keep telling myself I'm going to try doing that, but haven't taken the plunge yet.

Nice. That heirloom fit looks great. That's a challenging thing to do.

That looked really nice!

Straightening during tempering (second temper cycle) works very well. If I don't get a blade perfectly straight after the quench, then I use a fire brick, a large c-clamp, and some quarters to shim the blade in appropriate locations to allow the blade to flex a little past straight in the other...

Finished polishing. Ready for etching my name, and fitting a guard.

Interesting to hear. I will try the Mother's Wax also. I noticed that the BAW would sometimes be a little streaky on the blade if I got it too thick and then tried to buff out. The BAW seems like it is hard as a rock, though. I love the feel of it on the handle.

Ed, did you give up on the Bowling Alley Wax? I'm been using that for a little while with what I thought were good results.

It's 1075. First time I've done a hamon on 1075. I've done a couple on W2. I think I like this better.

Working on a new one. Playing a little with hamon's. Still a lot of polishing to go.

Really clean, though. Really like the tapered tang. I do that on my full tang knives also. Really balances the weight.

That is brilliant!!!

Thanks for the replies, guys. I have forwarded this information to my friend to follow up on.

XP-625 AC/DC Variable Voltage Power Supply is an option also. That is the power supply that is recommended on Ernie Grospitch's site. I found it for $119 and it has been awesome. You can pick up an etching tool from USAknifemaker and be in business.