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The Klien is the exact shape my Step Dad carried everyday. That is what I thought my son's friend was talking about. I see the approved style has a rounded, non-cutting point. I think he wants the hawkbill type, more than likely because it is what is "in style" right now. Thanks guys.

Ok, then I guess that is a hard no on sharpening the notch...That makes more sense to me. Thanks Ken.

My son's buddy is finishing up Lineman's School and is in need of a Lineman's knife. I want to surpirse him by making one. It looks to me like a hawkbill knife with a notch on the back used to strip wire. Is the notch sharpened at all or just left flat so it can grip wire that has had the...

I guess that was pre-OSHA in France...

Notice none of them have cats lying on their legs. Knives=Dogs...

I borrowed one of those from a friend and it did seem to help a lot in showing detail. I had a professional photographer (friend) take some pictures of a few of my knives once and she commented that knives are very hard to photograph. I kind of gave up then...

Koa Kimmi strikes again...Awesome Gene.

Ok, the knife is done. Now I have to make a sheath for it. I am not too happy about making a sheath for one of the best leather workers around. The only solice I have, is I know he can make himself one if he hates it...

Good job Kev. You have good instincts leaving some extra at the tip. Have you dressed your hammer yet? (If not, send it to me and I will dress it for you or look at a youtube video) It will help a ton with hammer marks, though it does not look like you had a lot of them. Get or make...

Ok handle and guard shaping done. Now for handle finish and clean up.

MY OPINION ONLY. I like the 10 seris of steels for begining forging so I would say 1084/1075. They are inexpensive, forge well for me and do not have the same problems something like 52100 can present. The heat treat is also fairly simple for these steels too but I think you already have that...

That should work. I have seen people make a "T" shape at the top of the groove so the head of the bolt can fit but I do not think you have enough tang to do that here. As always, there may be a better way I do not know about.

Great tip on the hamon template. I will remember that one for sure. I also really like the knife shape.

Ok, I got the frame and handle done and rough shaped. Here is where we are now. I need to shape the guard, finish shape the handle and sand everything until I am happy.

Don’t worry DeMo when this build is over I am going to offer you the choice to take one of my three piece hunters over this behemoth.

This is what I shoot for. Fairly decent fit with the tang. I clamp everything together and weld in small spots. Then I go do something else and let it cool. You can see from the pictures the heat stays fairly local if you weld small spots and let it cool. You also avoid warping your handle...

You sure can solder it. My stupid torch is out of O2 so I do not think of solder much. I have a butt ton of brazing rod too, that should work as well. I guess I should get some O2. Lol

Randy do you mind sharing the laser you bought? I have been looking myself. Those results are awesome. Are you using Cer-Mark?

Can you weld at all? I can hobby weld so I would cut a slot in the through tang and weld a piece of all thread or a small bolt to the tang. Then all you have to do is get someone to cut threads in your pommel. I learned how to cut threads from a youtube video. Its a good skill to have and the...

My frames are Mig welded to the tang. I have refined my process to the point where I can weld them without letting the heat get to my blade. I plan to show that hopefully today after Church. When I attach my handle the tang gets a pin and the frame gets a pin too.