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Knocking all the grit off the belt seam helps for me. I use a diamond stone dresser to do it.

In the few I’ve done, the only thing I’ve gotten right is the can not welding. I use a cheap spray paint can of primer and it works great.

It’s a stainless foil. There’s 2 grades rated for different temperatures. Stainless steel, due to the high temperature and longer soak times, needs to be wrapped in this foil to prevent decarb when heat treated.

I bought a set and never did figure out how to get any accuracy from them. I don’t like that they have a 5 point range between each one. If I was wanting something cheaper than a tester, I’d get the testing chisels that Matthew Parkinson at Dragons Breath forge makes. I believe they have a 2...

It's finished! I have to appoligize, I forgot to take pictures of the rest of the sheath making process. Once I got the ball head stud installed, I glued the sheath together, sanded the edges and drilled the stitch holes. Here is a video of the finished knife. Here's another thing I do...

Hmm. Mine holds great at low temperatures. 350 - 425 or so. I’m actually impressed with it at low and high temperatures. I do let mine get to temperature and equalize for 15 - 20 minutes before I start any process.

With my Jen-Ken air bath, it takes 5-6 hours. I was told by one of their techs to not cool it down with the lid open as that would shorten the life of the elements.

Thanks everyone. While I'm putting the finishing touches on the knife, I started on the sheath. I decided to use some dyed black leather for it. I start out by tracing the knife, then drawing the sheath shape around this drawing. After cutting this out, I trace it on the leather and cut...

All etching is complete and a coat of Gun Kote has been baked on. This was the first time using Gun Kote and i think I'm going to be using it more often. And it is glued up!

Here’s a quick video of the finished product. It’s finished with a fc etch, then a soak in instant coffee and finished off with a coat of gun kote.

I would try to drill the pin hole in the tang to 1/4”. A carbide ball end end mill should work to do this. Then I would peen a 1/4” brass rod into the hole. When the handle and blade are put back together, you can drill an 1/8” hole through the brass pin to assemble the knife.

The blade etching is finished. I'm liking the looks of it. I've got it soaking in the instant coffee right now. Here's a sneak peek of what it'll look like when finished.

Yes, it will be. If all etching goes good, I should get it glued up tomorrow

I hadn't noticed that. Looks like I got the perfect angle with the picture to catch the reflection on the blade lined up with the actual PVC fitting.

Here I have the handle shaped and sanded to 400 grit and have the guard sanded to 1200. Now, it's time to etch the blade and guard. While those are in the etch, I get the handle sanded to 1500 grit. Here it is after the first coat of oil.

Now it's time to shape the handle. First, I mark some lines on each side of the handle to use as reference lines while shaping. The first grinding I do is to put a taper from the front of the handle to about the middle. Next, I grind the back half of the handle with an 8" wheel...

Here are a few of mine. First are a couple kitchen knives I made to raffle off to help support our local cafe and bake shop, they are the 2 businesses on each side of my cabinet shop. The 2 knives raised over $1000 for each business. Next is my first feather damascus blade. It is also my...

I made a blade last year that had a line like yours in it. I posted on the ABS forum about it and got some good info. Here's a link to that post. http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/index.php?/topic/3809-bad-forge-weld/page__p__26185__fromsearch__1&#entry26185

Last night I got the handle fit. Here I have the block drilled for the tang. Drilling the butt for the corby bolt. All fit together.