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Just an FYI, but Rob Frink has this pdf for VFD setup and recommended settings when using a KBAC: https://beaumontmetalworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/VS-setup.pdf

Welcome from a fellow hoosier. What part of Indiana?

Most likely they're just taking payments without actually sending anything in return, and running off with the money as soon as payment clears. In some cases they may actually send a counterfeit knife, but I'd suspect it's pretty rare. If they send anything, it's probably just be an empty box...

Hard to beat the electric benchtop demagnetizers.

Even better when you get a text from your wife: “Have you seen my phone?” “You mean the one you just texted me from?” “.....”

Not sure why, but the links aren't working as they were originally posted. Here's a link to the 50100: https://usaknifemaker.com/50100-steel-145-thickness-3-5-width-36in.html and here's to the 5160: https://usaknifemaker.com/5160-steel-165-thickness-1-625-width-36-inches-long.html

Floors are about the only thing they'd be good for. They will have relatively little insulating value, which will make for a pretty inefficient forge.

Scrubbing the door with some CLR, or something like Bar Keeper's Friend might help remove the rust stains. Alternatively, you can try painting the door to match the rust color. :D

Looks clean and simple. I like it.

Anytime I warm my oven up, I let it soak for at least for 30 to 45 minutes before putting any steel into it. From that point, I try to limit open door time, but it shouldn't take more than a minute or two for the heat to recover and stabilize, IMO. Full disclosure, I have roughly a 6x6x24ish...

A carbon steel knife is like a pair of underwear: They like to be clean and dry; a little staining is normal. :D

Snap ring pliers, aka snap ring "slingshot". :D Just make sure you sweep the floor within a 30 foot radius of your workbench before you remove the snap ring. ;)

Did you shake well before using? Could be that it's separated a bit, or the alcohol could have evaporated out of it too much. Do you still have a seal inside the lid? I know mine falls out every once it a while. If it doesn't get a good seal, it could have dried out or evaporated some. Try...

The reason you don't add water to acid is that with certain acids, there is an exothermic reaction as a small concentration of water reacts with the larger concentration of acid. This immediate, intense heat causes the solution to boil and bubble or spray up out of the container. When you slowly...

I recently bought a Foredom style rotary tool for about $60 or so. I'm not sure if it's a cheaper offshoot of the Foredom brand, or what, but it came with a Foredom manual, and it appears to be compatible with Foredom parts. Either way, it seems to be pretty stout and the foot pedal is nice. A...

Yeah, that's probably a little steep of an asking price, but again, it's hard to say without seeing it in person, or seeing what kind of work it can produce. It's gonna be a "light duty" machine for sure, as there's really no way to set up flood coolant on it, at least not without some serious...

For me it'd depend on what their asking price is, as well as what you're expecting to do with it "accuracy" wise. Looks like that's on the smaller side of your average surface grinder, so I probably wouldn't expect to be hogging material with it. No idea what size motor it has on it, but I'm...

Lay them on something hard and flat (bow up) and give them a couple sharp whacks with a dead blow mallet.

I've seen other makers mark modded or re-ground blades, but typically it's in addition to the original manufacturer's mark, and sometimes it'll even say "regrind" or something similar to help clarify that it's not an original piece. Personally, I wouldn't mark a blade that I didn't make; at...