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For 10xx steels I typically temper around 670F, though lately I’ve just been torching my springs to a deep blue.

Just an FYI, J.T. is taking the month of December off, so if you need anything, I believe you can still place an order, but it likely won't be filled til January.

You’d think he could wire wheel some of the rust off for $1450. What a joke! I only paid $450 for my Reid 618.

I believe I found the tool: https://www.argofile.co.jp/en/products/industry/airgrinder/turbolap Looks like there are a few variations (varying RPM, straight vs oscillating, etc...) You can find the TLL-07 on Amazon or eBay. Personally, I think the TRS-12 might be the better option, but you’d...

I'm not sure to be honest. I think I recall seeing some similar tools on eBay that called for somewhere around 3 or 4 CFM. Could be more, could be less I suppose.

Just as an aside, I bought some EDM die polishing stones a couple of years or so ago, and they're great for hand polishing. They're about 1/2"x6" stones and you can get anything from I wanna say like 80 grit up to 2000 or better. That may very well be the type of stone he's using on his air...

Great timing, as this is something I just recently started looking into myself. I just posted a similar thread a few days ago on another knife making forum, and nobody seemed to have any clue what I was talking about. haha The air lapper you're referring to is actually at 11:30ish. Before that...

I got the Brother PT-P700. Font was 8pt Arial. I also tried 6pt with success.

I’m not sure I’d want a knife that’s been cogitated on. Is that even legal in all 50 states?!

So upon further research, this printer is limited to about 180 DPI resolution. Looks like that is why I'm seeing some pixelation on the smaller text I'm trying to etch, and changing to a vector based image likely won't change anything. (BTW, that's 8pt Arial font in the images above) However, I...

Well, I got my printer and stencil tape today, and after playing with just a couple "test" stencils, I'm pretty impressed. Now, you can obviously see a little bit of pixelation up close, but that may be something I can sharpen up. I believe that's just a result of using Windows fonts, as...

BTW, how is your blade tension, Daniel?

I think you’re talking about a porta-band. He has the vertical/horizontal. It uses different wheels and a screw tensioner.

I’d check belts and pulleys/shafts first. Is the drive wheel still spinning when the blade stops?

Did you crack the lid first? That might be the problem.

I’ve bought a few of the videos, but I must have missed the patterns page. Thanks for posting!

Anybody know where I can buy some anvil seeds? I recently bought some donut seeds, but I’m starting to suspect they were just Cheerios.

You can get immersion heaters for chemical tanks and such, but they're probably gonna be a little pricey. "Cold" acid will still etch, it's just not as fast. You can heat the blade with a blow dryer or a heat gun first, but it'll cool to the temp of the acid pretty quickly.

It appears that the Brother printer is a thermal transfer, so you may be able to get a little more detail, potentially, and not have to worry about weeding the unwanted parts. Mine is mainly going to be used for simple text, so I doubt it'll be an issue. I suppose we'll see. I've got one...

I was thinking, even if the stencils don't work out, there's still shrink labels for cabling or regular adhesive backed labels that you could print with it for any number of other applications. I recently bought a thermal label printer for shipping labels, and it's been a game changer. Too bad...