Warming FC

SS369

Well-Known Member
Hey All.

I’m looking for some ideas for warming my Ferric Chloride. It is in a 2 inch PVC pipe in a stand. My shop is uninsulated and to heat and keep the shop warm is,,, well, overly expensive. I like working in the cold...

I’m looking for a safe and quick method.
TIA for all ideas.

Scott
 
A small heating pad, with controller. Before I had a temp controlled shop, I used one for years on my Ferric container. It's not going to be quick, but wrap it on, and hold in place with tie wire. It will take about a day or so to warm the solution (depending on outside temps), and will maintain the temp for as long as it's kept plugged in.
 
I like working in the cold...
Cold??? Don't you live in Georgia????;)

But seriously, what I've done here in the PNW is put it in front of a small space heater. As long as it's far enough away not to burn your hand, you should be fine (I'm assuming 185F/85C is uncomfortable, here)
 
Hey Billy, yeah I live in Ga., but the shop is down in the 40’s here lately. Sure, not cold like yours, but cold enough to cause the FC not to do well, especially on AEB-L. Everything in the shop is ok except for the FC and epoxy (which I keep int the house). Me, I’m fine as long as I am moving.

Would it be a dumb idea to heat a piece of steel and submerse it for a short time, or will that be a safety (fumes) Nono?
 
I think there would be issues with sticking a heated bar of steel into ferric...... I've never personally tried it, but I have stuck "coupons" of damascus in my tank, that were straight off the grinder, and too hot too touch.....nasty fumes. If you have the ferric in PVC..... first strike. Even being careful and not melting the PVC, I'd think you'd spike up the temp, and then it would cool, and you'd be chasing your tail all the time. I'd also think it would fume off badly if the steel was hot enough to "sizzle" it, and even possibly ruin the ferric. Those are just educated guesses on my part.
 
Thanks Ed. You are a trusted and appreciated voice.
I must say that I truly appreciate the info and wisdom shared here!
 
You can get immersion heaters for chemical tanks and such, but they're probably gonna be a little pricey. "Cold" acid will still etch, it's just not as fast. You can heat the blade with a blow dryer or a heat gun first, but it'll cool to the temp of the acid pretty quickly.
 
Thanks Drew. Although I have a heat gun (500-1000 degrees settings), I‘d rather heat the mixture.
 
I live in Georgia and also have a relatively unheated shop. I have never heated my FC but for Epoxy I use hot tap water. I float my epoxy in a small container of hot tap water for about five minutes prior to glue up and bam. Flows perfectly. Maybe a slightly larger container of hot water would work to heat your FC quicker than a blanket depending on how large a PVC container you have. If its 12 inches long or so maybe put some hot water in a pot and set it in there for a while. You may have to change out your water a time or two as it cools but the FC would gain heat. I would not do it by heating the FC directly in a pot or something because I do not know enough about it to determine whether it would create harmful vapors for you to breathe or to rust your equipment. Simply placing the container in hot water may work though.
 
Thanks Chris and neighbor. My enchant cylinder is made of 2 inch PVC pipe and stands about 20 inches tall. I was thinking of heat tape, but wanted to explore other’s ideas. The thing is, I want to heat it fast since I don’t do a lot of etching. Usually one blade here and there. So, it doesn’t make sense to keep it warm all the time and it has been a spur of the moment type of thing sometimes.
The epoxy I just keep it the house,so, it is at room temps.

Thanks Gliden, I’ll check out that idea. Might come up with something related.
 
I wonder how long it would take to warm the tube with a heat gun or hair dryer?

I bet not that long. Of course, care would be required but I think its feasible.
 
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