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One of the issues is that you have to figure out how to heat the oil unless you are using Parks 50 in Florida like me. I used a Home Depot turkey fryer for years, but never used the burner. I just heated bars in the forge and used them when I was using AAA type oil or when it wasw below 60F...

One of the first knifemaking DVD's that I bought was the Charles Ochs basic forging video where he made a 7 inch fighter from 52100. He took a 7 inch piece of 1/4 thick bar stock and forged the though tang knife from it. Combination fo thinning a little bit and distal taper made it work.

Interesting, I am familiar with Drager because they have made rebreathers for diving for ages.

Bad news. Because your knife is attractive and looks rather ergonomic, you fail your Instgram Knifemaker Club entrance exam. ;) Try for a more clunky and painful design next time. :D

The only disadvantage to a small mill/drill over a big floor standing drill press is length of stroke. If you ever plan on making hidden tang knives with guards, a mini-mill is what you want.

Cool. Where in Florida are you?

I was gonna say that those fiber optic pins are kinda funky. Where did you get them?

No ferric on that. That is a "cleaned" finish. As I previously mentioned, I will be looking into the tradtional rust blueing. Actually, I plan to first try its slightly faster cousin "express' or "Belgian" bluing. The only real difference is that you heat the metal up to like 150-200F and then...

This is as "rustic" as I am comfortable with. Sorry for the ugly pre-handle buff picture. And yes, that is hammer/press finish, not mill scale like some "forged" blades you see. ;)

When I finally made a couple of knives with the "forge finish" on the flats (VERY narrow flats mind you) I soaked then in vinegar and then gave the rough part a fishing of sorts with a quick run on the scotch bright belt. Crevsses were still crusty, but the tops looked kind of like what I have...

If we go by Murray Carter's videos, the kuroichi finish is not a "pure" forge finish like some of the "brut de forge" finishes you see. He at least sand blasts and "cold forges" to pop the scale off. What you end up with is perhaps more a "heat treat" finish. They just don't grind above a...

Steels like 52100 and Cru Forge V are tougher even a those higher hardnesses than Blue, White, 1095, the German tungsten steels, etc, So is good 1084, but you cant get it quite as hard. Of course, the caveat is that the steels have to be of good quality to be comparible and that is one thing...

That may be a good argument for using something tougher like 52100 instead of Hitachi white for such a knife made for 'Muricans. :D

Some nakiris may be thinner than say a typical gyuto, so no need for a FFG. . Of course, a number of Japanese double bevel knives are thinner than their western counterparts.

Of course. because we know that there is more than one way to skin...........nevermind. :p

Not really much different than skinning a crocodile.......... ;)

Thanks. This VFD is supposedly 1.5hp at 110 and 2 hp at 220.

Eventually, I want to put an A/B swith on the VFD for my KMG and run a disc. I have had a Nathan 1 degree disc for years, but I have never used it. My KMG runs on 110 so the motor is a 1.5 hp. Could I run a 1 hp on that same VFD? I also want to install the reverse switch on the VFD which I have...

Those guys have to knock out a lot of blades! Were they using salt for HT?

Cool!!! Tell us more.