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Wow, very nice & that leather work sure shows off your talent!

Dennis, have you tried them post-heat treat? If so, how well do they work?

For sure I'm still on a learning curve with the electric heat treating process. To answer your questions: - There seems to be 2 schools of thought on when to put a blade in the furnace. Some believe that putting it in cold works just fine, other say wait until the furnace reaches the target...

Ya, I've done that on carbon steel, works great. The Brownell's bluing I have doesn't touch stainless. I thought of mixing some black dye into epoxy and working that into the etch depression. That ought to give a pretty tough blackening. But, I think to make this technique work, the epoxy...

Thanks, that's really good advice! Much appreciated.

I recently purchased a Paragon KM18t 3 element Pro. This furnace has a Bartlett Sentinel Controller that is very easy to use. It incorporates a WiFi connection that allows access to the stored heating cycle data. As an example, here's the data output from this morning's heat treatment of some...

I've got some new electrolyte coming and will use it on a set of new blades now in process.

Yes, that could be (part of?) the problem. Thanks

And here's a set of well worn, small US & Metric versions, with a nifty Starrett dial type chart and, of course, the always needed Ohms Law pie chart, all place handily over the work bench.

7.5" Gyuto with Saya, AEB-L blade, Cocobolo oval handle with G-10 ferrule, Cherry Saya with walnut pin.

Chris, thanks, I'll get some of that juice and give it another try. On KD's website it looks like there is also an electrolyte specifically made for stainless, SC-35.

Chris, I used the Etch / Mark sequence you mentioned. And, set the power knob to about 4, then dabbing the pad on/off for about 5 seconds, about 7-8 times. I'll take a look at the electroyte I have and see if there is one specifically for stainless steel.

I'm just finishing a knife for a customer and found that using my Personalizer with SC-1 electrolyte on AEB-L that I didn't get a darkened mark after etching. The etching seemed to work pretty good, but it just wouldn't darken. Should I use a different electrolyte, or is there another work...

Very well done, terrific shape, the lines flow nicely! What is the blade thickness?

An interesting bit of history and certainly a unique individual, thanks for sharing.

So, after looking at these photos again, I wonder: - How did they decide to grind knives in that position? Did they make a gradual shift from vertical, to 45 degrees, then 30 and then finally flat...or,, just go from vertical to horizontal? I can just hear it now - "Hey hold my Merlo and watch...

Laying in that position would have my sinuses draining, yuk. Perhaps that's how they lubricated the wheel!!!

A guy sent me this photo of French knife grinders and I thought it might bring a smile. Next time I'm stiff from hunching over my grinder I'll be thinking of this position and pondering which is worse, vertical or horizontal! Claude Dozorme still makes knifes with a distinctive French design...

Gene, thanks for the detailed HT sequence, very interesting. I've heard stories that Nuclayer can be difficult to get off after HT. What was your experience? Step #5 - Did you place your blade in the kiln cold and ramp to 1440, or did you place it in on the way up to 1440, or wait until the...

Gene: That's a really really nice knife. As always, I learn a lot from watching your WIPs. Thanks for taking time to photograph your steps, that's very helpful. Could you describe your heat treat process on this blade. Did you use electric furnace or gas forge? If you used an electric...