Search results

You normally would not use a reamer on a tang hole. Just use the next size drill. Keep in mind g10 or micarta will shrink back a few thou when drilled and metal does not. What I mean is usually a 1/8” drill will make the hole oversized enough (in metal) to allow a 1/8” pin (Corby, etc) to fit...

Harold told me that no one would tell him where to buy knife steel back then. It was a secret. He ended up sourcing 440c from Fry Steel in California. It is good we don’t have that mentality anymore in the community.

Everyone knows about Corby bolts. If you don't, you should. Beth told me someone named Harald Corby called in and placed an order. He said he invented Corby bolts. I told her if he calls again, I wanted to talk to him. He called back a few days later and I had a great conversation with him. I...

I had a basement shop for awhile and it stayed around 65 in the winter and I had lots of issues with epoxy until I started using a desk lamp for heat. The difference in cure rate between 65 and 70 seems to be huge. It’s weird. My experience has been, yours maybe different, that if an epoxy has...

Sounds like belt tension is a bit low. A belt should sound like a bass guitar string when plucked. I really crank down on them to minimize squirm.

After it is soldered, you will mill through the liner (since it is only .093”) and into the bolster. A small “ring” of liner will probably come loose from the solder. Hold onto this to use as a washer.

I am told 1” but it should easily cut 3/4”

We got a new tool! A shop Sabre CNC Plasmas with Hypertherm 85 torch. We are starting out with signs. Here is the first one off the table. More designs coming. I have been stuck in the computer for the last few days working on some drawings for the new CNC plasma. Grinder kits (tab and...

cnc plasma table cutting a knife shop sign

We were all out of White Claw.

Occasionally I get to have shop visitors for a day. Here is Jess Hoffman, Peter Martin and his son Cory Martin reviewing our plan. Peter and I have been focused on forging Titanium. Here is a can I put together and filled it with Ti powder. Peter made a can also. We pre-heated the cans to...

I had a couple other things going on here so this has project has had to wait on me. I finally completed a back spacer after breaking TWO taps. The taps broke because I was hand holding these small pieces and I twisted them. I finally grabbed some vise grips to hold it and got through it. They...

I have a 20 and 30lpi and prefer the 30. I always knock the points back to flat.

It dries waaaay faster. Years ago, I did a drying test between Tru-oil, Danish Oil (Deft brand) and boiled linseed oil. The test was primative and who knows what it proves. Form your own opinions. Tru-Oil has a cult like following and I don't even try to argue with those that like it. It's good...

Tru-oil is a great finish but I got tired of it drying out so fast. The container it comes in never does quite seal up well after it is opened. I switched to Danish oil which is mostly tung oil like Tru-Oil. I would not hesitate to use Tru-Oil otherwise.

My buddies Peter Martin and Jess Hoffman are coming over Friday to play in the shop. Peter and I like to see what goofy stuff we can do while Jess supervises. We decided to attempt to make a Titanium canister. We found some powdered Ti on amazon and hopefully we can pull this off. This the...

Time to make the back spacer. I am using the same stock as the blade and the back bar. We haven't talked about thickness yet but the blade will need to be .010" thinner than the back bar and back spacer. The .010" will be used by a washer. Anyway, same as the rest. Use the drill pattern we...

The open lock position has been filed and set. Here the screw is holding the back bar in place so it pivots on point B. Point A is the open position. I enlarged the blade slot big enough so that one of my files can get in there. Then I worked on the lug side to match. Once I got close, I...