Recent content by Dan Keffeler

Thanks Mike We really appreciate you covering our sport and your articles and photographs. I would definitely like to stop by your table and talk more at the next blade show Dan

here is my new cuter made from .310" cpm M4 Dan

Here is a set of kitchen knives I just finished. blasdes are S30V handles are Amboyna Burl thanks for looking Dan

if I can get a piece big enough I can make a competition cutter out of it. I currently use M4 but am always up for something better. If that’s not an option I would still like to be part of what ever you decide. Here is a pic of my new cutter cpm m4 Dan

I want one Dan

Wow thanks for the kind words. James I take it to 400grit before Ht. I work allot of 3V and M4 in my knives and swords. so I have developed a good system for finishing these steals. Dan

Blade 8" 3V with rustic forged finish RHC 60 guard and fittings are forged cable with copper handle is western WA Black-tail Dear andtler Thanks for looking Dan

Blade 8' 3V with rustic forged finish RHC 60 guard and fittings are forged cable with copper handle is western WA Black-tail Dear andtler Thanks for looking Dan

yes

great job I look forwerd to meating some of you At blade Dan

sent what I could. wish it was more

+1 for Rock

The only swords that don’t need sharpening are swords that are never used. What do you consider hard use? What is your price range? Dan

The best way to do this is go to a local hardware store and get Tungsten Carbide Glass Drill Bit. you can get them in 1/4". The bit should be between 5 and $10. Go slow with good lube. I have used these to drill through heat treaded CPM M4 and S30V.

I just cut some blocks of Bubinga and need to send them to get stabilized so I can put them on a set of Kitchen knives. I wanted to see if anyone could recommend where to send them and what kind of turn around time to expect. Thanks Dan